run 12v to sprayer

[gotrocks]

I've just had my 2910 for a couple of weeks and want to "plug" in my sprayer. Please direct me to best location for running a "pig-tail" plug to the rear of my 2910. Would also appreciate suggestions for location of a switch to control the sprayer power. Thanks a bunch.

 

[Bird]

gotrocks, when I had the B7100, I used my brother's 50 gallon, 12 volt spray rig, and I ran my wire all the way from the battery with an inline fuse and just made a little bracket to mount a toggle switch on the right fender. When I bought the B2710, I told the dealer they had to put a cigarette lighter on it, and they ran the hot wire, with an inline fuse, off the starter and mounted the lighter in the instrument panel between the steering column and the light switch.

Bird

 

[beenthere]

On my spray rig, I just ran a two-wire plug connector to the rear light, and used the light switch to run the pump. It means the lights are on when the pump runs, but no mess, no fuss, no problem with burning out fuses, and just the short pigtail hangs below the rear light. Works great for me.

 

[DaleW]

I assume that the wiring harness on the 2910 is the same as on the 2710 so you should have a hot pigtail on the right side rear of the tractor under the taillight assembly already provided by the K-Men.
Look close as mine was taped up and hidden.
You can run a ground wire from any convenient spot on the tractor.
Good Luck

Dale

 

[gotrocks]

Presto! Eureka I found it! Thanks Bird, beenthere and DaleW.
My 2910 does have the pig-tail with a ground taped up under the right tail light. It is hot with the ignition switch on.
Now all I have to do is install a swith on the fender just like Bird suggested and then make me something to carry my 25 gal sprayer. I don't want to pull it on it's wheels- turns over too easy. I had used it with my JD 185 until it got stolen a few years past.

 

[JRP]

For my work light I wanted a real durable switch and wanted it protected. I got an aluminum box from Radio Shack for $3 and installed a push-pull switch from Walmart (Automotive), also about $3. The toggle switches I found looked too light duty for a tractor. I put one hole in the box cover for the switch, and one hole in the box base for the fender bolt. Also added a notch for wires. My M series has pigtales and fuse already for the work light. Key does not need to be ON.

I also included a pic of my spray nozzle holster. Made from a piece of PVC hose clamped to a short piece of angle. A notch in the PVC keeps the handle oriented and keeps the handle from spinning and scratching the fender. Ergonomic and where I need it without even looking.

 

[JRP]

Another pic

 

[littledog]

jjjj

[image]http://nzwwa.com/mirror/clipart/graphics/pictures/icons2/waver.gif[i/mage]

 

[JRP]

Found a way to send four pics at once!

 

[patrickg]

Nice work jrpoux. Clean design and install.

Over time as rigs get customized (electrically) there is a tendency (at least when I do it) for things to get a bit messy. "Tap the winshield wiper wire for power that is switched with the key", "there is a heater hot wire real near where you want that so just..."

Related to that is the tendency to leave something on without noticing or a switch getting bumped but not noticing, that sort of Murphy's law thing. I find that if I force myself to think of the big picture rather than treating each project as a separate entity I get better long term satisfaction/results. Toward that end I usually make up for a shortcoming of virtually all manufacturers by installing a really heavy duty 12volt wire (and ground) to a convenient location (or two) with heavy duty terminal blocks (fused, resetable breakers being so expensive) in plastic boxes (Radio Shack, like you). I like to fuse the heavy runs near the battery so in case the wire ever got hit, pinched, or whatever the fuse would blow rather than cooking the wire or starting a fire (been there, done that) as it would if the fuse were at the other end.

In some cases I have "gilded the lily" a bit by having two busses, one hot all the time and one fed from a 100% duty cycle rated solenoid with the coil wired to the switch. This way I have a choice of hot all the time or of switched power (but not taking the power through the little key switch contacts which won't take too much abuse for long).

So far I haven't done any electrical customizing to my litle Kubota L4610HSTC but I think it needs air horns, a couple two way radios, rear facing work lights, more cigarette lighter outlets (switched and unswitched), a lighted toolbox and ... and a cup holder and a fire extinguisher mount and........ Isn't that what winter is for? Time to customize your ride.

Patrick (impatienty waiting for the dirt to dry so he can tractor on)

 

[JerryG]

jrpoux,
Nice job. I used the same type of switches for the same reason. These switches have worked out real well; I put them on over a year ago. I ran a 4(?) gauge line from the battery to a fuse box that I made. That way everything is isolated from the tractor electrical system. Each circuit has its on fuse. I think the biggest problem was finding the best way and place to mount the fuse box and the switch box. You never know when you will need a power outlet, I have one now and I am currently putting a bank of four in the overhead console that I am also working on.

 

[JRP]

Thanks patrickg

Your discussion about fuses was very good.
Key points:
Fuses are more reliable than circuitbreakers.
Fuse as close as possible to the power source.
Use large wire. 14 ga is good for 15A, 12 ga. is good for 20A, 10 ga for 30 amps.

Attached is a pic of one of my favorite fuse holders. It is small, can be tucked away inside a box, and uses the standard automotive industry fuses. Well designed fuses, very available, and hard to mis-apply.

I got a good surprise when I checked my M6800 fuse box. It has a lot of fuses. Then I noticed that half of them are stored spares! The fuse box cover has a built in fuse puller. Quality!

I don't like the cheapo cigarette lighter outlets that cost $4, and am looking for a well made one. Any suggestions anyone ?

 

[patrickg]

jrpoux, Although I will probably never use "large" wire on my lil Kubota I have wired power to the center console of my pickups with #4. But then not everyone uses 1.5 million candlepower spot lights, 2-3 ham radio xcvrs, CB, FRS, WX, GPS, small frige, etc. Amps for some ham gear are amp hogs.

Regarding the reliability/longivity of breakers: If you are so fortunate as to find some surplus mil-grade, aircraft. or better yet mil-aircaft breakers, especially the ones for pilot use, then celebrate. These are made to use as a switch as well as to be a circuit breaker. Typically they are well sealed and pretty dust proof. I lucked into some that were lighted. Wired the light circuit to the pannel lights so they dimmed (had to cobble in some 12 volt lamps as the 24 volt ones were already dim on 12 volts.

Congrats on your spares and tool, I have that feature in my Dodge pickups.

Regarding 12vdc (cigarette lighter) outlets. Some of the best I have seen are stainless steel and come with waterproof covers to keep thing nice inside. They were built, I believe, for the marine industry. At least that is the venue in which I found them. My only complaint is that they were not flush or recessed (they protrude less than an inch, I was just being picky).

Thinking outside of the box, some folks just delete cigarette lighter outlets from their designs and standardize on something they like,changing everything to that style. It is certainly a valid engineering solution and you can use as good a style connector (with waterproof covers etc.) as you wish. Of course, as everything is a tradeoff, you have the time and expense of replacing the cigarette lighter plugs that come on a lot of gear.

Patrick

 

[StanInCalif]

Jim-
I would use a four pin round trailer connector as made by Cole- Hersee and others. They are weatherproof, well made, and allow for two spares, in case, down the road, you want to power an appliance off the ignition or light circuit. - Stan

http://www.nzwwa.com/mirror/clipart/graphics/pictures/icons2/waver.html

 

[gotrocks]

Thanks to all who offered help for me to get wired.
After I got the electrical completed, I got an old 3point fork we made for the old Satoh hooked it up and then got my old 25 gal. sprayer that was used with the JD 185 hydro that was stolen and the wheels just straddled the forks and the tongue hooked to the 2910 draw bar. This is so much better than using the stolen 185 to pull the sprayer. Now I can adjust the 3 point to tilt the tank and the mix is "good to the last drop".
Let's see if I can show you a photo.

 

[ronjhall]

Gotrocks
Picture looks great./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
Make sure you have proper size fuse for the pump on your tractor. That type pump motor can freeze up and make wires overheat. These same pumps are used on RV's and Boats. More than a few boats have burnt and sank because of wires catching on fire./w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif

 

[gotrocks]

Hello ronjhall,
Thanks for the warning. Since I only attached to the end of the original "hot" wire and it is only hot when ignition switch is on, I assume the circuit is fused already. I sprayed half tank without any problem but I'll certinly be alert to the overload possibility.