Rear Blade Rubber edge for rear blade

/ Rubber edge for rear blade #1  

Badger_Bandman

New member
Joined
Jan 8, 2006
Messages
11
Location
Genoa City, WI
I am looking for a bolt on rubber edge for my rear blade. I just resurfaced the black top drive and I would like to spare the surface; also, when the blade catches a crack just right it can really make a big bang!

Anyone have one on their snow blade or rear blade? Do you like it? What do you think?

Frank
 
/ Rubber edge for rear blade #2  
Frank,
I do not have a rubber edge for my back blade. But I have plowed parking lots with a truck that had one. For light snow it was fine. When the snow was wet and heavy, it stunk. It would usually not scrape the now down to the black top in all areas. Then when it would freeze, the lot was a mess. I think that you would be better off installing a set of shoes on the plow. This also will not clear down to the black top, but it will leave the entire surface smooth(saving black top). That is at least my experiance with the bubber cutting edge on a plow, Take it for what it is worth. Good luck.
Dan
 
/ Rubber edge for rear blade #4  
Ditto on the horse mats.. get the 3/4" thick ones.. they are sure tuff. One mat contains enough material for many years worth of blade edges..

soundguy
 
/ Rubber edge for rear blade #5  
how does one cut a horse mat?
 
/ Rubber edge for rear blade #6  
Hack saw works good.. or many passes with a sharp razor knife. Sawsall with a metal cutting blade works good to.

Soundguy
 
/ Rubber edge for rear blade #7  
RalphVa said:
Some have reported making edges out of "horse mats".
Ralph

OK. Dumb question time. I was getting ready to weld up a set of skids for my newest rear blade, but maybe the mat would be better.

But, how have others mounted it? My 6-foot blade has a removable cutting edge. Do you replace the cutting edge with the mat? Do you sandwich it between the cutting edge and the mould board so it sticks out an inch, or so? Do you use the cutting edge bolts to hold it in place on the front or back?

I was also wondering if implement belt might be better, especially if it is sandwiched between the mould board and cutting edge.

Thanks,

Knute
 
/ Rubber edge for rear blade #8  
Here's a link to my post last year on using a horse mat. It didnt work out for me, I pulled it off and went back to the blade edge. I could never get the blade angle set right to keep the matt from bouncing like a rubber eraser. It also wasnt stiff enough to perform as it should. If you can find a stiffer matt it may work. Or even better, go with one of the poly (or similar material) soft edges members have posted about.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/68319-back-blade-soft-edge.html
 
/ Rubber edge for rear blade #9  
How much did you leave proud? The less sticking out, the stiffer it is.

Soundguy
 
/ Rubber edge for rear blade #10  
does wood wear to quickly? (hardwood?)
 
/ Rubber edge for rear blade #11  
Here is how my rubber edge is mounted.
18672d1072790228-1st-report-fel-edge-guard-355742-rubber3.jpg


Some members have used 2X4 or 6 for a edge. It is cheap and wears better than you would think.
 
/ Rubber edge for rear blade #12  
Hello,

I too had the same situation. I have a 5' Midwest Model 22 blade with offsets and tilt. It is relatively heavy for a 5' blade. It did not have skid shoes. The first year I found that it removed a fair amount of light surface stone as well as the sealer from my driveway. The second year I used the horsemat suggestion many users have posted. I allowed about 1.25 inches to extend. I simply sandwiched it between the moldboard and the cutting edge. That held up for most of the year but the weight of the blade eventually tore it partially off before the season ended. The third year I had skid shoes (commercial snowplow type) welded to the back of the moldboard. I replaced the horsemat, again with about 1.5 inches extending below the cutting edge. It has worked great since (2 years ago). I allow the skid shoes to support most of the weight. The horsemat just grazes the surface and it squeegees the asphalt quite well as long as the snow has not been packed. There are simple washer adjustments on the skid shoes so I can allow more weight on the mat if necessary. It's simple to adjust and play with. When cutting the mat I doubled the needed height so that when one side wears out I can simply flip it over with the same holes. This basically is the same as in a reversable cutting edge. I hope this helps. BTW, the mat is still in great shape. I plow about 700' of paved drive.Good Luck.
 
 

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