RTV Trailer Towing

caylor · Aug 26, 2005

How does the RTV handle towing trailers around? I know this sounds goofy but, I am looking to buy a trailer for my L3130 and it more than likely will be a gooseneck type trailer. I was wondering if anybody has rigged a RTV to hook up to a gooseneck trailer? (I am thinking rear reciever hitch adapter, not through the RTV bed, since the bed dumps)

Let me state that I am not intending for the RTV to pull massive weights on the gooseneck, but I would like to use the RTV/Gooseneck combination to be a utility type trailer around the farm (haul off large branches, brush, carry irrigation pipe and construction related items. What do you RTV owners think? All this said becasue I am a cheapo and I only want to buy one trailer. Thanks in advance for your input.

FL_Cracker · Aug 27, 2005

I don't think the RTV rear hitch could take a GN adaptor. The leverage created by the long adaptor would let the GN trailer rip the hitch off the rear axle tube...

I pull a 5x10 single axle tag-a-long trailer and that works fine....

bczoom · Aug 29, 2005

I'm with FL_Cracker on the leverage issue. I wouldn't think the rear receiver could handle it. The RTV can tow very heavy loads but the receiver can't take incredibly high tongue weight.
A 2nd (smaller) trailer could be purchased or built relatively cheaply. Check out sales, auctions... I have trailers in the 4x8 or so size that I've picked up for $50.

Brian

DrRod · Aug 29, 2005

I'm going to venture out on a limb here and assume that towing with an RTV is somewhat similar to towing with an ATV -- at least in the following way:

Its not how much you can get moving, its how much you can get stopped. ATVs typically have tow rating in the 900 - 1100 lbs range. They will tow a lot more, the limit is often a matter of getting traction, but once you've got something rolling, it can be hard to stop it with a 500 lb machine.

While I've never pulled anything too heavy with wheels on it, I once was skidding logs out of the woods on crusty snow. I saw my daughter waving and pointing and when I looked around I saw the log gaining on me. I sped up and made it to the road before it did but when I headed up the road it headed straight across and basically played crack-the-whip with me and the ATV. Given the icy conditions, it all went pretty well and was sort of fun -- but is probably not recommended procedure.

bczoom · Aug 30, 2005

( I'm going to venture out on a limb here and assume that towing with an RTV is somewhat similar to towing with an ATV -- at least in the following way:

Its not how much you can get moving, its how much you can get stopped. )

That's true for any vehicle with something in tow. One of the primary reasons I got the RTV was for processing firewood. Living in the hills, I didn't like towing a trailer to get the wood down. On the hills, I carry as much as I can in the box and that's it. On relatively flat ground, I'll tow heavy trailers.

caylor · Aug 31, 2005

Thanks for all the advice. I think I will just bite the bullet and buy a little trailer to tow behind. What size do y'all recommend to be able to transport the RTV? I figure I can use it to haul the RTV on, and use it as the RTV utility trailer. Thanks again for all your help.

bczoom · Aug 31, 2005

( I think I will just bite the bullet and buy a little trailer to tow behind. What size do y'all recommend to be able to transport the RTV?)

From the post above, I think FL_Cracker uses a 5x10 to haul his RTV. I'm using a 6x12 and have some room around the sides and back (I pull it all the way forward for tongue weight).

Since you're going to "bite the bullet", think of other things you may want it for and size for those things as well. If I stack very carefully, I can get about 100 bales of hay on a 6x12 (but won't take that kind of load down a hill...).

Brian

DrRod · Aug 31, 2005

You want to get a little more space than the minimum fit. This gives you room to adjust for tongue weight and angles for tie-down. Sometimes a trailer rolls along and you don't even know its there, other times it seems you just can't get the weight distributed right. So leave some room to adjust.

Tact · Aug 31, 2005

I had a 5 x 10 when I first got my RTV and it fit snug on the sides with a little tire rubbing getting it loaded and unloaded. I then bought a 6 x 12 which made loading and unloading a lot easier. I also got a fold down ramp in the back. If you get a tilt trailer I don't think you'll have enough front weight to tilt it back level. I'm extremely happy with my 6 x 12.

bczoom · Aug 31, 2005

( If you get a tilt trailer I don't think you'll have enough front weight to tilt it back level. I'm extremely happy with my 6 x 12. )

Fred,

Have you tried a tilt? Just wondering why you couldn't get it back up. I have a 6x12' with ramp and it works nicely.

Brian

Tact · Aug 31, 2005

Hey Brian,

My 5 x 10 was a tilt and it wouldn't tilt back to level when loaded; too much rear end weight. It could have been where the pivot point was located. Maybe a 6 x 12 tilt would work fine but I opted for the hinged ramp on the back.

FL_Cracker · Aug 31, 2005

Brian, I do have a 5x10 trailer with a ramp gate for my RTV. It's 61 1/2" wide and 10' long except the front angle iron rail is about 6" forward on the front of the trailer. This gives me a little slope to the front and allows the RTV to sit 6" futher forward. It is perfect for tongue weight and a good tight fit. I don;t even have to secure the RTV although I do for additional safety From my rear hitch I attach two straps to the rear cornors and then use my front winch to pull RTV tight to front rail and down just a little. I went with the 5x10 because I want to fit it tight to the RTV and also keep it small enough that I can pull it behind the RTV without being too big. If I had to do it all over again I would do the same thing as it works great.

The trailer is a Performance 5x10' with PT deck and a galvanized steel frame. We sell them at our store in WPB, Fl and it's a well made trailer.

Here is the link to their web site. Performance Trailers

bczoom · Aug 31, 2005

Charles,

Your trailer is a lot nicer than mine...

Oh my... You use straps in the rear and the winch in the front?

I thought about that approach but reading a couple threads (particularly Dargo's) about straps breaking, I go with chains.

If I recall, you have the same winch as I do. Remember, it doesn't have a mechanical brake and the cable will slowly start to spool out.

Brian

FL_Cracker · Aug 31, 2005

Brian,
My trailer is nice but I'm in the trailer business, I have to have the best.

Your right about the winch. It does slip just a little but with the side rails I don't worry about it too much. The straps are great. They are each good for 2,000 lbs. and I have them attached so there is know wear on the strap itself. I also secure the parking brake and keep the RTV in gear.

Later,

flyingn · Sep 14, 2005

fyi- I pull a #3200 trailer with my RTV WITH 2 aboard UPHILL and the RTV has no problems at all

cnoel · Sep 17, 2005

We built a frame with a ball that just fit inside the bed. Towed a 24ft deck over gooseneck trailer with our parade float on it to the tune of about 6000lbs. Stopping quickly would not be a good plan, but it pulled it fine-the full parade route and probably a couple miles back to the dealership. THe frame just sat in the bed and the wieght of the trailer held it down. Not the best pic, I'll see if I have any others.

caylor · Sep 19, 2005

Thanks, cnoel thats exactly what I had in mind. I look forward to seeing anymore pictures you have.

mowerpan · Oct 30, 2005

Ya thats a good idead, just make a frame the mounts int he bed and can be removed with pins or something, as long as the trailers got tongue weight it will be fine but If it were me I'd just cut a hole or slot in the tilt bed and make a crossmember and then have the ball come through the tilt bed. Have the part you cut out for the ball, be hinged there and have the gn ball removable, so you could pull a pin..take the gn ball out and then the hinged little cover would cover the hole from the ball.