rotary cutter rebuild

[MESSMAKER]

I ended up with a Big Bee 5' rotary cutter(ld 540 I believe) as part of a deal. I have decided to keep it as a spare. It has a new gearbox on it and the sides are fine,The trailing wheel is OK, but not HD by any means. but the A-frame is bent slightly and the sheet metal is rusting. My neighbor and I are going to replace the sheeting with some 3/16 S. M. that we have laying around. I have access to torch, welder and a good bit of almost fee metal. What other improvements should I consider?

 

[teg]

How's the blades? Are you going to have photos of the mower and the rebuild. I have one that could use the deck replaced, would be nice to see yours done.

 

[MESSMAKER]

I have already started on it. The blades are good but not great. I put a down and dirty paint jop on it yesterday. I changed it from rust and red to black.I took it out for a trial run and it works just fine. I will try to get a photo or two up.

 

[deereman75]

Sounds good but if you didnt already you might want to sharpen the blade.:thumbsup:

 

[MESSMAKER]

Sounds good but if you didnt already you might want to sharpen the blade.:thumbsup:

I keep the blade on my good cutter sharp, but to tell the truth, I can't tell much difference. It may not bog down as easily, but the cut looks about the same.

 

[MESSMAKER]

[/IMG]


This is what I am starting with.

 

[teg]

I don't use the top link for my mowers... If I have to raise it up, using just the wheel in the back and the bottom lift arms will raise it high enough to get over any rocks. I basically I just drag the mower behind me with the lower arms.

Compared to mine... that one looks good It looks like the top part of the 3ph moves in and out? (since the chain and the bent section)

 

[2manyrocks]

Unless there are some structural integrity problems with the deck that create a safety issue, I'm not sure I'd invest the time and labor in replacing the deck with new metal. It's doubtful that it will increase the resale value.

 

[MESSMAKER]

Unless there are some structural integrity problems with the deck that create a safety issue, I'm not sure I'd invest the time and labor in replacing the deck with new metal. It's doubtful that it will increase the resale value.

Hard to see in the photo, but the sheet metal has about 500 small holes in it. I am a bit worried that it might not hold back dome debris that shoots out just right. I do some contract mowing, so I plan on using this as a back up unit and really don't look to sell.

 

[Soundguy]

if you are re-skinning.. don't overlay.. it will rust out. torch out the old metal leaving a lip to weld to.. be better off that way.

soundguy

 

[deereman75]

My comment on sharpening the blade is based on what I know about lawn mowers. (I have never used a bush hog):laughing:

 

[2manyrocks]

Rust begets rust. If you're going to replace that deck, then a do-over would be better than a patch job.

I've seen brush cutters break and throw rocks the size of a grapefruit quite a distance. So I understand why you don't want a deck with 500 holes in it.

Also a good reason not to standby and watch somebody else bushhog.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Soundguy is correct on reskin of mower. Do not plate over the rusty stuff. That will trap moisture between each plate and cause the new stuff to rust out very fast. Torch off all the frame work, put on a new top then reinstall all the top bracing, gear box and A-Frame. Here are some photos of a bushhog 307 model that was rebuilt with 1/4" plate and double tail wheel. I used the original stump jumper and gear box with frame but added a double tail wheel due to the 1500+ weight. I also adapted the pin hitch to a clevis type hookup for class II hitch by adding some heavy angle

 

[Gary Fowler]

We used the checkered floor plate because it was available from scrap and several hundred $$ cheaper than new stuff and it is slightly heavier than standard flat plate

 

[MESSMAKER]

I hear you on the re-skin. Am in the process of cutting it off.Might be able to come up with some diamond plate, but not sure yet. Planning on running angle around the outside of the unit with some cross bracing. We are going to change over to a clevis mount for the lower 3 point pins with a solid connection to the frame. That will only have stess on the A-arm when I am lifting.I put a quick paint job on it but am consider giving it a second one when finished. What color do you guys like? I have red,orange,yellow. I like the orange on the back, but black is not bad and it is a dream to touch-up.I will get some more pictures up as I get a bit more done.

 

[Soundguy]

i like going back as near to oem colors as possible.. but in the end.. paint keeps rust away.. any paint color will do. remember to clean, degrease, prime then paint.

soundguy