ROPS work light power source?

[Jay4200]

For those who have wired external work lights onto their tractors, did you power them right from the battery, or add a circuit onto the tractor's fuse box, or so something else? My tractor has the fuse box down under the dash on the left side, but I haven't investigated if adding additional circuits is feasible and/or easy - I think there are empty slots, so it seems like I should be able to add a connection and another blade fuse and be all set. Comments?

Thx - JayC

 

[kennyd]

I added a 30 amp CB protected circuit directly from the battery, through a relay so it's only powered with the key ON. It powers my lights, AUX plug and solenoid diverter valve. OEM wiring/switches are usually not sized for much extra.

 

[CHDinCT]

Most newer Kubotas (a least B's and BX's) come pre-wired from the factory for a rear work light. The wire is taped up to an adjacent wire with electrical tape somewhere in the rear of the tractor. On my BX it was right under the top link bracket. I've read the B's are under one of the rear fenders. Not sure which model you have.

Given this, I tapped into this circuit for my rear work light but also added a 10 amp in-line fuse just in case. I also added dual front facing ROPS work lights wired straight to the battery with a 15 amp in-line fuse.

 

[PHILIP8N]

I can off the starter with an inline fuse, then followed the harness to back of tractor. Philip.

 

[Chilly807]

Most newer Kubotas (a least B's and BX's) come pre-wired from the factory for a rear work light. I've read the B's are under one of the rear fenders.

As was mine.. have a look under the rear fenders first.

Sean

 

[von-mil]

I found my work light circuit's terminal underneath the right rear fender near the tail light. It was wrapped up in a bunch of tape and is good for 20 amps. I am powering two ROPS worklights on this circuit and they are switched on/off from the key-on circuit via a dash switch and a standard "foglight" relay.

 

[johnrex62]

I noticed in a parts diagram that there is a wire for the optional light kit under the right rear fender on my L3700SU as well. I have not checked to see under what conditions it is hot yet. I expect that it is live when the headlights are on, anyone know for sure?

 

[dex3361]

I noticed in a parts diagram that there is a wire for the optional light kit under the right rear fender on my L3700SU as well. I have not checked to see under what conditions it is hot yet. I expect that it is live when the headlights are on, anyone know for sure?

I have a L4400 and the wire is hot all the time the key is on. there is another that I haven't checked the power condition on it.

 

[Chilly807]

I noticed in a parts diagram that there is a wire for the optional light kit under the right rear fender on my L3700SU as well. I have not checked to see under what conditions it is hot yet. I expect that it is live when the headlights are on, anyone know for sure?

Unless K changed the wiring from the L3400, there is another one under the left fender, to match the two holes in the top of the fenders. Both are live when the key is on, I tapped into the main feed for this circuit near the fuse panel and added a waterproof switch next to the steering wheel. Fuse is good for 10 amps, you can run two 55w halogen lights, which draw about 4.5 amps each. I used a switch rated for 10 amps, no relay.

Sean

 

[jgrreed]

I found a loose wire at the back of my machine that had live, fused power. Think it was the 'add a worklight' circuit. I used that, without a relay, to power 4 LED worklights. They are very low draw (1.4A each), so I just ran them straight through the 15A JD switches that I mounted on the fender.

I was going to use an empty fuse spot, but I was too chicken shoop (shoop, that's s*** and poop, get it??) to pull the fuse box out, as I've never done it before. I was also apprehensive about running wires here and there. With my luck I'd put it next to something hot and the bloody thing would melt. I looked into relays, but it gave me a headache, and in the end was unnecessay.

As long as your fused, use proper gauge wire, and switches or relays that can handle it, it's all good.

-Jer.

 

[stratton]

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I was about to run a wire from the battery to some works lights untill i started looking around on this thread. Thanks for the heads up on the auxiliary terminals under the fender. I took some pics of where it is. I had to undo some electrical tape first.
The second pic is just a test to see when they power on. Which is when ever the key is on unless you put a switch in. I am going to look for the LED lights this week with hopefully a 360 mount.

 

[stratton]

[/IMG]

 

[stratton]

I used that, without a relay, to power 4 LED worklights. They are very low draw (1.4A each), so I just ran them straight through the 15A JD switches that I mounted on the fender.


Where did you find LED work lights, I looked around but cant find them anywhere.

 

[Kubota Tee]

I found a loose wire at the back of my machine that had live, fused power. Think it was the 'add a worklight' circuit. I used that, without a relay, to power 4 LED worklights. They are very low draw (1.4A each), so I just ran them straight through the 15A JD switches that I mounted on the fender.

I was going to use an empty fuse spot, but I was too chicken shoop (shoop, that's s*** and poop, get it??) to pull the fuse box out, as I've never done it before. I was also apprehensive about running wires here and there. With my luck I'd put it next to something hot and the bloody thing would melt. I looked into relays, but it gave me a headache, and in the end was unnecessay.

As long as your fused, use proper gauge wire, and switches or relays that can handle it, it's all good.

-Jer.

Jer,

Where did you get your 4 LED work lights from? Are you happy with the output? How did you mount them? Pics would be great!

Thanks,

 

[jgrreed]

Hi Guys,

I got them through NAPA. They're Grote 63821-5. They come with mounting brackets. I did the unthinkable and drilled mounting holes in my ROPS. I considered all types of mounting locations - vertical part of ROPS, outside ROPS, inside ROPS, etc. I read everyone's experience and opinions here, and decided on hanging them under the horizontal section of the ROPS. The upside of this spot is the protection offered when bashing through the trees, the downside is a bit (very little) of glare when looking over your shoulder.

I'm very happy with them. Only downside I see is price (~150$ each), but in all honesty the savings in durability, and the not worrying about amperage draw, comes close to making up for it.

I did two forward, and two back.

It's dark out now, I'll take a couple pics.....

This is the only one of any meaning...

Daylight pics to follow.

-Jer.

 

[Jay4200]

I did the unthinkable and drilled mounting holes in my ROPS.

Good for you. I'm a ROPS hole-drilling fan myself.

I read everyone's experience and opinions here, and decided on hanging them under the horizontal section of the ROPS.

I like that spot too - I'm planning on mounting a couple there myself as soon as I get a round tuit.

I'm very happy with them. Only downside I see is price (~150$ each),

GAAK!! I just passed out.

JayC

 

[rbargeron]

Drilled and tapped for the bolts and put the wires inside too so limbs can't rip them off. Light wire was fused - but not on the key.

 

[jgrreed]

Drilled and tapped for the bolts and put the wires inside too so limbs can't rip them off. Light wire was fused - but not on the key.

My wires are in the ROPS too, for as long as possible.

-J.

 

[jgrreed]

GAAK!! I just passed out.

JayC

Sorry..... Should've told u to sit down first....hope you got your color back!!

LEDs are cheaper by the day.....and there are Chinese options.

 

[jgrreed]

Here's a daylight shot of the lights, and my rig al loaded up it's way to the hydraulics shop for it's new circuits....