ROPS modification

[electrycmonk]

Having read threads /seen/downloaded pics of several ideas here and other forums over the decades....

I have one to share here.

I’m Up-cycling (pun enforced) to provide better visibility regardless what’s I’m doing in OR off the lil’ tractor.

found the local cycle shop (Sprockets) and asked what they did with the frames you couldn’t repair. They said recycle them. I asked if they had 2 currently or in the coming days they would be scraping reusable a off and be willing to let me do a little Mcgyvering? The Mgr smiled and said, “I’m listening....”
“I would like to have the seat post section of two bikes of similar size to cut off and use while the rest of the metal will get dropped off at Tubb’s. I’ll also need to buy a pair of those cool spinner clamps for quick adjustment from your used stash as well as two seat posts of equal length.

I want to weld them to the roll bar on my tractor so that the aux/flood LEDs I got can be tilted & rotated (180+ to possible 360*). Those LEDs will get welded to the seat posts. This is why I need to have them as close as possible to the same length & diameter so, if need be I can swap.

he said gimme a week & call me.

I did. He was great. Just charged me for the clamps. So, I’ve already chopped them down. Roughly ground them smooth. Here they are mocked up with squeeze clamps on the ROPS.



The light is just balanced on top of the seat post for this picture.

it will likely be a week of so before I’ll be able to schedule time to fine tune and tac them in place. Depending on these last weeks of school - it might get done over Memorial weekend?

 

[bmaverick]

I'm all for ROPs and the safety they provide when it's ever needed. However, cutting into them or welding to them could compromise their strength. There is much hardware out there to just clamp things in place on the ROPs with u/-bolts and plates. The plates are the items used to mount things.

IF you ever resell the machine and the ROPs were found defective, it's an open issue of legal matters your not going to be happy with. Keep them "as-is" and just get mounts or make the bolt+plate mounts yourself.

 

[Cat385B]

Magnetic light bases:

Amazon.com: WF 2 Pcs Magnetic Light Bar Mount, Magnetic Work Light Base, Powerful Magnet Mounting Brackets Holder with Rubber Pad for Off-Road Driving Lamp, Curved LED Light Bar, Emergency Light, Roof Flashlight: Automotive

Buy WF 2 Pcs Magnetic Light Bar Mount, Magnetic Work Light Base, Powerful Magnet Mounting Brackets Holder with Rubber Pad for Off-Road Driving Lamp, Curved LED Light Bar, Emergency Light, Roof Flashlight: Light Bars - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[bmaverick]

Magnetic light bases:

Amazon.com: WF 2 Pcs Magnetic Light Bar Mount, Magnetic Work Light Base, Powerful Magnet Mounting Brackets Holder with Rubber Pad for Off-Road Driving Lamp, Curved LED Light Bar, Emergency Light, Roof Flashlight: Automotive

Buy WF 2 Pcs Magnetic Light Bar Mount, Magnetic Work Light Base, Powerful Magnet Mounting Brackets Holder with Rubber Pad for Off-Road Driving Lamp, Curved LED Light Bar, Emergency Light, Roof Flashlight: Light Bars - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

I like the concept, but over time magnets and moisture will develop rust. I have a pair of magnetic trailer lights from Harbor-Freight. They work great, but over time, the paint underneath discolored fast from black to a milky white-gray with tiny surface bubbles. In short time, like this year, it would show a round rust spot at the magnetic field of attachment. Plus, to keep those lights up, stronger magnets are needed due to the tractor bouncing around and the high mount location.

Wish the drawbacks were not so severe with magnets. It's a clever use, but causes troubles later.

 

[Roadworthy]

I didn't know about the magnets. I got some square (kind of) U bolts (Lowe's I think) and some angle aluminum to attach to them. I drilled the aluminum for the U bolts and added a hole in each piece for my light bar. It may rust or fade or whatever over time (didn't think of that) but it's a secure mount which doesn't affect the integrity of the ROPS. To prevent (or discourage) damage to the paint I slipped drip line main tubing over the legs of the U bolts and split some neoprene fuel line for the flat top part of the U bolt.

 

[electrycmonk]

This “warning” fascinates me from a purely physics stand point. I think I need to go chat with my long time mentor on this project and what y’all have raised....

I’m not thinking any disrespect here at all. I’m in full education mode currently.

To add context to where I thought this was a reasonable idea from a material & structural stand point is a few projects over the last 20 odd years that I have either witnessed or been party to: Modifying frame rails for making trailers, 5’ver/GN hitch, dump beds, snow plows, lift gates, & frame stretching or “bobbing” for a wrecker bed installs.

 

[bmaverick]

This “warning” fascinates me from a purely physics stand point. I think I need to go chat with my long time mentor on this project and what y’all have raised....

I’m not thinking any disrespect here at all. I’m in full education mode currently.

To add context to where I thought this was a reasonable idea from a material & structural stand point is a few projects over the last 20 odd years that I have either witnessed or been party to: Modifying frame rails for making trailers, 5’ver/GN hitch, dump beds, snow plows, lift gates, & frame stretching or “bobbing” for a wrecker bed installs.

About 10 years back, lots of vehicles had door side business info on them. From typical contractors, delivery or real-estate. Well, once those magnets came off, discoloring and grime were imbedded into the paint. In a little time, dimples of rust marks appeared. Needless to say, I don't see these large door side magnet mats used anymore.

 

[ericm979]

I'd make or buy u-bolts or clamps rather than welding on the ROPS.

 

[PILOON]

I like the concept, but over time magnets and moisture will develop rust. I have a pair of magnetic trailer lights from Harbor-Freight. They work great, but over time, the paint underneath discolored fast from black to a milky white-gray with tiny surface bubbles. In short time, like this year, it would show a round rust spot at the magnetic field of attachment. Plus, to keep those lights up, stronger magnets are needed due to the tractor bouncing around and the high mount location.

Wish the drawbacks were not so severe with magnets. It's a clever use, but causes troubles later.

Everything I mount uses magnets and no problems 4 me.
However my cab is a DIY affair and I skinned it with galvanized stock* rather than weld, grind and paint.
Now my DIY cab is about 17 years old and has no rust while tractor fenders and a few other items have changed over to the rusty shade.

*I used somewhat thicker gauge galvanized material and fastened it to the frame using self tapping screws every 10" or so with a sealant material under the skins.
Kinda has an industrial look to it but has served me extremely well.

 

[Tinhack]

I'd make or buy u-bolts or clamps rather than welding on the ROPS.

Skip to about the 4:05 mark in that video. I wonder what the difference is between the "engineered holes" drilled into the ROPS and someone else's holes drilled into the ROPS. Please explain what that means.