Rope for pulling trees over

[Gary Fowler]

The only time I used rope to pull on a tree, it tensioned up then broke and the tree fell in the opposite direction. Luckily it was just a fence that we had to repair.
I have a 2" wide tow strap that I use for looping around the tree simply because it is much lighter than pulling up a 3/8" chain while standing on a ladder. It will hold as much force as my 70 HP tractor will produce in 4 WD @ 1200 RPM before it stalls. I then attach my 3/8" Gr. 70 chains till I get plenty of length to avoid getting tree limbs into the tractor. I attach the strap 15-20 feet up, depending on the height of the tree, then 3 20 foot chains with the last hooked on to the FEL. The last dead pine I pulled over 3 days ago, was about 18" at the base and 60 feet high or so. I used my B26 backhoe to dig all the way around it, severing all the feeder roots, then got my LS and pulling gear and ladder to attach everything. I took the slack out testing it and then stopped. That is when I noticed it tottering so I quickly reversed back and toppled the tree over with it falling exactly where I wanted it.
I use the larger chain because I know that the breaking force is more than any of my tractors will produce in a straight pull. I never JERK the chains at least not intentionally so I am not worried about them breaking. Even if one broke, the angle from the tree to the tractor would put the chain into the ground and chains don't usually recoil like ropes or nylon straps. Due to the links it tends use up it stored energy fast and to not move very far if it breaks it breaks. I would much rather use chains than rope or cable anytime just for the less recoil factor.

 

[k0ua]

In all respect to wives, mine helped stretch some fence with the truck. I signaled for her to give it a little pull. Nothing happened??? So I went up to the window and found that the brake was on. So we started all over. This time when I signaled to pull a little, she gassed it and pulled all the post out of the ground.:confused3:

That is because she had no understanding of what it was that you wanted her to do, and why the truck was hooked to it, and how slowly she was to pull, and when, etc.. If you had taken the time to describe to her in a calm manner, perhaps made a diagram and went over the plan, examining all the contingencies, and allowed her to ask questions, perhaps the results would have been different. But we ASSUME that our spouse's are on they same page as us and understand the job at hand, and we ASSUME they understand engineering principals, and they do not. And it is not just our spouses that have trouble with this, though since they are so closely tied to us that they don't challenge us and ask questions. Our children are often the same way, in that they want to please us, and don not ask questions if they do not understand what it is that we are trying to accomplish, and/or don't want to appear dumb. But other un-related helpers will often do the same thing, and just "go along" acting like they know what to do when they don't. It is our own fault for not making sure that all hands understand their assigned part in the overall task.. I am extremely guilty of this. But I do understand the "why" it .

 

[Midniteoyl]

That is because she had no understanding of what it was that you wanted her to do, and why the truck was hooked to it, and how slowly she was to pull, and when, etc.. If you had taken the time to describe to her in a calm manner, perhaps made a diagram and went over the plan, examining all the contingencies, and allowed her to ask questions, perhaps the results would have been different. But we ASSUME that our spouse's are on they same page as us and understand the job at hand, and we ASSUME they understand engineering principals, and they do not. And it is not just our spouses that have trouble with this, though since they are so closely tied to us that they don't challenge us and ask questions. Our children are often the same way, in that they want to please us, and don not ask questions if they do not understand what it is that we are trying to accomplish, and/or don't want to appear dumb. But other un-related helpers will often do the same thing, and just "go along" acting like they know what to do when they don't. It is our own fault for not making sure that all hands understand their assigned part in the overall task.. I am extremely guilty of this. But I do understand the "why" it .

And today on 'Life lessons from TBN'...


I agree though..

 

[94BULLITT]

I found this on tie knots in ropes, skip to the second page

http://www.neropes.com/Resources/sail_reprint.pdf

 

[Notforhire]

That is because she had no understanding of what it was that you wanted her to do, and why the truck was hooked to it, and how slowly she was to pull, and when, etc.. If you had taken the time to describe to her in a calm manner, perhaps made a diagram and went over the plan, examining all the contingencies, and allowed her to ask questions, perhaps the results would have been different. But we ASSUME that our spouse's are on they same page as us and understand the job at hand, and we ASSUME they understand engineering principals, and they do not. And it is not just our spouses that have trouble with this, though since they are so closely tied to us that they don't challenge us and ask questions. Our children are often the same way, in that they want to please us, and don not ask questions if they do not understand what it is that we are trying to accomplish, and/or don't want to appear dumb. But other un-related helpers will often do the same thing, and just "go along" acting like they know what to do when they don't. It is our own fault for not making sure that all hands understand their assigned part in the overall task.. I am extremely guilty of this. But I do understand the "why" it .

Would you mind going over that again? I got distracted.:ashamed:

 

[arrow]

I have a few trees that I want to take down. They need a little help to fall in the right direction. What kind of rope would be good to use to pull them in the right direction while they are being cut?

When we were called in for "yard work" where a skidder would be verboten, we slung a half inch double braid "climbers" rope for directional pulls. I think it had a 6000-8000lb breaking point but I cannot be sure. Back then it was cheap. I think 100' cost less than $20. It never broke but it does not take much to move a tree if the rope is slung high enough. We also used this rope for limb drop retainment when the tree was just too massive or too opposite leaning for directional pull and had to be cut up.

 

[94BULLITT]

When we were called in for "yard work" where a skidder would be verboten, we slung a half inch double braid "climbers" rope for directional pulls. I think it had a 6000-8000lb breaking point but I cannot be sure. Back then it was cheap. I think 100' cost less than $20. It never broke but it does not take much to move a tree if the rope is slung high enough. We also used this rope for limb drop retainment when the tree was just too massive or too opposite leaning for directional pull and had to be cut up.

What did you use to pull the rope?

 

[arrow]

What did you use to pull the rope?

Mostly it was just us. The outfit I started with was very cavemanish. I remember my first day attempting to toss 100-125 lb logs into a stake body that was 4'off the ground and then of course became higher and higher as the truck was loaded. They'd do this to newbies just for the laughs. After about 5 of these I wanted to throw up and I was a very fit young man.. By the end of the summer, it was like tossing frisbies. One just got stronger and stronger (and I think stupider and stupider) whether you wanted to or not. One or two of us had no problem pulling a tree over with a line attached 2/3rds up the tree. We could dead lift 500lbs of tree stem just to get a choker under it. It is probably why I have 3 fused disks and 3 hernia operations. One of our guys I swear could lift a thousand lbs. He was a gentle giant who one day a barroom tough attempted to start a fight with. The poor guy was tormented for 5 minutes by this idiot and then just popped the guy. He literally caved in the left side of the guys skull. The guy lived but had fractures to his cheek, sub orbital and jaw. We hardly needed a winch with this guy around.

 

[kco]

When we were called in for "yard work" where a skidder would be verboten, we slung a half inch double braid "climbers" rope for directional pulls. I think it had a 6000-8000lb breaking point but I cannot be sure. Back then it was cheap. I think 100' cost less than $20. It never broke but it does not take much to move a tree if the rope is slung high enough. We also used this rope for limb drop retainment when the tree was just too massive or too opposite leaning for directional pull and had to be cut up.

I have a 100' double braid (as used in sailing?) that I've used until now. Last year I finally accepted that my technical mountaineering days are behind me and am using a 150' 10mm kernmantel rope. I also have climbing caribiners, nylon slings and rescue pulleys which are easier to use than the heavier snatch block.

As Arrow says it is best to put attach the rope as high as practical. If I can access the tree with the tractor I climb in the bucket to attach the rope. If that is not high enough I struggle up with spurs from my long-ago lineman days.

I like nylon rope because of the stretch and pulling through a block helps me redirect the pull while out of the fall line and along my winding trails.

If you put too much tension on the tree there is the risk of a dangerous "barber chair". I snug the rope with the tractor, make the wedge cut and partial back cut, watching to see if the tree moves. If it does I re-snug with the tractor and repeat. Also, felling wedges are great for controlling the fall.

I only need to guide about 25% of the trees I cut which are near fence lines, powerlines or buildings. The others I can usually fell and just hope they head the right way.