Ripping a treated 4x4

[Richard]

For a patio roof that's attached to house, I need to flash it. Wife does NOT like the metal flashing I put up.

She wants me to take a 4x4, rip it length wise (16', so one eight footer will do).

After it's ripped DIAGONALLY (45 degree), she wants me to use it against the house and when I install the shingles, just slope them up the beveled slope.

I hope this makes sense, it's not really important anyways.

My question is, how does one go about ripping a treated 4x4 on a 45 degree angle?

I don't have table saw, band saw or other.

I DO have circular saw, sawzall, router (joke), jigsaw (another joke)

the only things I have that would be capable of it would probably be the circular saw.

Any thoughts on how to perhaps fabricate a jig so I can do it "safely" with my circular?

Home Depot and the like won't rip as we all probably know.


I could have finished this 3 days ago and she decided she didn't want the metal flashing and now it's MY fault that we're not done yet.

/forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[gmsssi]

Find a mill or cabinet shop who'll do it for you!

 

[Casco1]

I may sound like a jerk to some, but in this situation ( after having done it once ) I would delegate. I would tell my wife if that's what you want, get the wood cut somehow, prime it and I'll put it up. In my house the subject probably would never come up again or the wood would be cut.

 

[Farwell]

Richard,
You need to practice some survival lies. "Honey it just can't be done that way because -------YOU FILL IN THE BLANKS-----
Example: Roof Rot..........Water Damage...........Wind Will Lift Up the Shingles........ Attic Termites..........Bugs Will Get in........Spiders........The boys on the tractor site will poke fun of me.............etc or if all else fails, many lumber yards will do the cutting for you for a minor fee. Maybe even Home Depot. If you do end up finding a way to do it yourself, remember that sawdust from pressure treated lumber is hazardous to your health and this is not a lie.

 

[johnday]

Richard; It would be a total bear with anything less than a table saw. Even with that, I'd make a jig to cradle it before I were to rip it. Do you have buddies that have a tablesaw? If so, a jig isn't that hard to make seeing you already have a jig/sabre saw. Take two pieces of plywood, particle board about 8" long and 6" high. Cut a vee with 90 degree corners in it to hold the 4X off its corner. Take a 2x4, or 1x4 and mount the v shape piece to it. Then take a couple straight 2x4 on edge and screw the previous assembly to it so it slides on the table. Set the fence so you can cut down the center of the vee, make a test cut with a 4X cutoff. You may need to flip the workpiece over to cut all the way thru, and BE CAREFUL. Hope thats clear enough, but you're going to need a tablesaw. Please don't try this on a radial arm. If you do, please don't tell me. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[hitekcountry]

Richard

Sounds like you’re just creating a configuration that will allow rain water to get under the shingles.
What’s to keep rain out of the top edge of the top course of shingles. You still need flashing. I think you’re back where you started only 3 or 4 inches higher.


Well of course it's your fault! /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

No good deed goes unpunished. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[Richard]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Sounds like you’re just creating a configuration that will allow rain water to get under the shingles.
What’s to keep rain out of the top edge of the top course of shingles. You still need flashing. I think you’re back where you started only 3 or 4 inches higher. )</font>


I've attached a picture. It has a four foot overhang over it on two sides. You can see the flashing tacked to the left wall

She says it looks hideous and wants to change it.

The left wall is where she wants the split 4x4 put. The logic being that with a four foot overhang we won't have a LOT of water there anyway. With a split 4x4 with the shingles sloped up it, it will allow any water to drain back towards the flat area, sort of like the slope on a bowl.

Hopefully the pic will show more clearly

 

[hitekcountry]

Richard

That flashing is wrong for that application anyway. and the ripped 4X4 would be wrong also. What is normally used are individual flashing that are about 8 or ten inches long that go at the end of each course of shingle. You could then put a trim board over the flashing (against the wall) and seal it well. You’ll then never see the flashing either against the wall or on the shingles.

I have to agree with the wife that flashing looks like****. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

Fred

 

[TonyReynolds]

With it that far under the overhang does it really need flashing? It doesn't look like it from the photo.

 

[Richard]

/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Sadly, I've learned over the years that she usually is

/forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

I didn't know about the individual flashing, nor did the gal at one supply house, NOR the guy at the OTHER supply house make any mention of it to me /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

Thanks for the description, I'll be a bit more observant now when I go into the store.