RESTORED (not reconditioned) Yanmar

[mark777]

I am always pleased to see anyones pix from salvage yard to showroom. I enjoy them all. Dont do what I do....Post the After without the Before. regards & thanks, Mark

 

[rich1010220]

Mark,
It's nice to see someone else who takes the time and effort to put a tractor in as near as origional condition as possible. Here is a picture of one we just got done with and have for sale. The beauty is in the details. This one had all sheetmetal and rims sandblasted inside and out, sealed with self etching primer, primed, blocked sanded, and painted. Is there any other proper way to do them? More pictures of this one at :
http://pages.sssnet.com/rjsmag/1702D/

Great job on your tractor.

Rich

 

[mark777]

Rich,
BEAUTIFUL

Not one "nit' to pick. Even the green makes me want to reconsider. Excellent all the way around.

Preperation same process, except I chemically strip and acid wash sheetmetal.

I see you own a 1610 and that's what I am working on now. I really like this tractor - almost hate to put it up for adoption.

We never let anyone tell us it's not worth the time. Either they understand or they don't, or they buy it or they don't.

Mark

 

[SydKen]

Mark,
Unbelieveable job!! I think alot of people who buy their Yanmars intend on restoring them to a point. I know when I bought mine I had grand dreams of restoring it to its former glory. BUT it's hard to get the butt out of the seat long enough to do anything but maintenance!! I was thinking last night about trying to tackle a repaint and spruce up this winter when seat time is a less necessary. How long does it take you to restore one of these tractors.

Again Amazing Job!!

Scott

 

[mark777]

Scott,

2 weeks mechanical & 1 week paint
On average it takes me 14days to test, list all mechnical problems; order parts perform all related repairs (almost always clustch disk /PP/ t-o bearing and breaks).

As I try and buy all 4X4s, we dis-assemble, inspect, Mic' all shafts, gears, spacers and replace axle and knuckle seals and run drive shaft on comparitor for trueness. And then re assemble the skeleton tractor and run/test again.....you know like a cheap rental car.....Man we put it thru the paces, bring it back into the shop, park it on a nice clean floor and leave it there for 24 hours (to look for any leaks).

All steering linkage, pitman arm, box, shaft, hyd lines, brake, clutch pedal assembly and sheetmetal is media blasted and/or chemically stripped and acid washed. Etch primmed and painted with catylized oil or acrylic enamel. Transfers (decals) applied, tractor assembled and gently tested.

My own personal tractor took me 3 days to wash, sand, mask and paint......I have a very expensive Sata paint gun, but almost alway use one of my cheap (79.00) Porter Cable HVLP gravity feet guns ( Home Depot/Lowes )

Sorry, I tried to give you the condenced story. But if it's your tractor (I mean you Know it from headlights to liftarms) it takes about 3 days to clean, prime, blocksand, and paint, and the related chemicals, tape, paper etc. run approx $300.

Regards, Mark

 

[mark777]

Whiskey, Thanks, and now you need to do your tractor.

 

[sirgknight]

Absolutely Masterful! I'm glad my tractor can't see those pictures. It would never let me on it again.....

 

[Durbob]

OK Mark ...I have a stupid question. I asked this before but never received an answer, so i'll try again. Is it possible to put a two stage clutch on an import that never originally had one on it? I'm not sure what that would consist of or what the difference is in the clutch so that's why i'm asking.
Thanks
Dur

 

[mark777]

Durbob,

Sorry, but I have been mulling that question over. Yes, you can. And I don't think it's too difficult if you can find/make the right components.

IMHO: The easiest (maybe not best) way is to adapt an existing 2 stage clutch transmission and final drive (axles/PTO) to the front half of your tractor. An example of this is the guy who puts Chevy small block into his Ford.

Tracing original bell housing and replacement bell housing would provide you with the required plans to make the adapter, same with input shaft to pilot bearing and I believe that would be the extent of machining required.

Few modifications to your exisisting engine add ons would have to be marryed to your new back half. Hyd Lines..etc.

I have seen some pretty interesting things roll into my shop in the past, and the one that comes to mind is a guy with a BMW motorcycle who installed a Wankel rotory RX4 engine/transmission with the cooling system inside the hack (sidecar) and still room for his dog. Why, I asked after close scruitny.....To see if I could, he said.

I'm betting that you will do it, some how. Maybe we will hear from others who have done something similar? Hope so. Good Luck and regards, Mark

 

[HoyeTractor]

Mark,
That seems to be the motivating factor in some of the world's greatest achievements....... "to see if I could". One thought though- if you did the modifications that you describe- would you really still have a Yanmar tractor? Might just be easier to buy a tractor that came that way. But then again, where's the challenge in that?

Aaron
Parts@HoyeTractor.com
(940) 438-0386