replanking my trailer question

/ replanking my trailer question #1  

escavader

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Joined
Mar 1, 2005
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Location
western maine
Tractor
bx-23 ,
replanking my 2005 bigtex car hauler[ummm actually tractor hauler] The original pt was crap and didnt hold up ,now its rotten.Igot some real good pt 2by 12s [no knots:thumbsup:]Iwas wondering if you guys think i should gap them apart a bit,instead of tightly touching each other like the original.Just wondering if an air space would help.Also thinking of coating the bottom side with motor oil?What do you think?
ALAN
 
/ replanking my trailer question #2  
They will probably shrink a bit, so I would just place them in tight.
 
/ replanking my trailer question #3  
I would use pressure treated wood. If not pressure treated, treat it yourself like you mentioned. I treated my new deck

I used mixture of 30% used motor oil and 70% wood preservative and it worked GREAT on fresh wood. My fathers recipe. Too much oil and the deck stains dark.

Gap depends on moisture content of wood now versus what it will be in use. If wood is dry and you think it will swell then leave a gap. If at a "normal" moisture level I would put together as likely they will shrink over time.
 
/ replanking my trailer question #4  
I use several trailers and have replaced all of the decking. I used Oak 2x10 or 12's on 3 of them and 2x12 Maple on the other. I space them 1" to 2 " apart for one simple reason to let the dirt and grim go somewhere instead of washing or sweeping the trailer each time I use them. A couple other things when the boards are spaced the dry faster in bad weather (rain and snow) also if it's for a trailer depending on the width you may save a full board plus the bolts to secure the board as well as the time it takes to complete the project. :2cents:

Good luck
 
/ replanking my trailer question #5  
We always gap ours .162". Diameter of a 16d common nail. :)
 
/ replanking my trailer question #6  
replanking my 2005 bigtex car hauler[ummm actually tractor hauler] The original pt was crap and didnt hold up ,now its rotten.Igot some real good pt 2by 12s [no knots:thumbsup:]Iwas wondering if you guys think i should gap them apart a bit,instead of tightly touching each other like the original.Just wondering if an air space would help.Also thinking of coating the bottom side with motor oil?What do you think?
ALAN
I've got a Big Tex and it's planked with 2x6x16 pt. I would think that you could spaced 2x12 up to 1/2" with out any issues.
I have a couple of boards that rotted and I'll need to replace them soon my self.
 
/ replanking my trailer question #7  
I re-planked my 16' Big Tex with 2"x16" white oak cut by a local with a portable saw mill. They are a true 2" thick. I spaced them about 1/4" apart and when they dried the gap opened up to about 1/2". I coated them with a 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. Should last for a long time.
The original planking only lasted about 3 years.
 
/ replanking my trailer question #8  
I built my trailer in 1990 with pressure treated planks about 3/8 inch apart. The trailer spent about half those years out doors. I never have had to replace any planks but about every other year I put on some Thompson's water seal.
 
/ replanking my trailer question #9  
The pressure treated lumber you buy now seems to be a lot poorer quality than it used to be. The original floor on my trailer only lasted 5 years before I replaced it. I'm considering oak for my next floor.
 
/ replanking my trailer question #10  
Trailers I've worked with have all had 1/4 inch spacing or better to make cleaning easier. Modern treated pine does not last more than about 5 years, but costs a whole lot less than oak or maple, unless you have a friend with a portable saw mill. My neighbor goes with pine because he can replace it a time or two for what hardwood costs, and may not own the trailer forever anyway.
 
/ replanking my trailer question #11  
If the PT is reasonably fresh it will shrink a ton as it is loaded with water. Feel free to butt them tight if that is the case. If they are drier, then gap them slightly and you will be fine no matter what. When I have pounded nails on fresh PT I have gotten splashed back in my face with water from the wood...very wet...
 
/ replanking my trailer question #12  
We replaced our trailer decking this winter. We did use PT and left 1/4 inch gap towards outsides with a bigger gap, 1 inch, inside the tire width of tractor.
 
/ replanking my trailer question #13  
Ipe rough saw lumber last as long as trailer will. Install it and forget about it, space 1/8" apart, use self drilling countersunk torx screws. It wont warp or split, and is not slick when wet.:thumbsup:
 
/ replanking my trailer question #14  
I like the roughsawn not slick when wet part. We "treated" my brother in laws 12 foot trailer with some used mixed motor/hydraulic oil by rolling on a thick coating or 2 or 3 and the dry wood soaked up a lot of oil. It looks like it was painted now, but man is is slick when wet.
I think I will treat my new trailer with a water seal wood preservative after allowing it to dry out for 6-12 months. I did my patio the same way spraying top and bottom and it is holding up well, but I think about every 2 years it will need a new coating on the top side. Bottom still looks like the day it was put on. I sprayed on the first coat, but I think a roller and brush will work better on the top side next time.
 
/ replanking my trailer question #15  
The pressure treated lumber you buy now seems to be a lot poorer quality than it used to be. The original floor on my trailer only lasted 5 years before I replaced it. I'm considering oak for my next floor.

Trailers I've worked with have all had 1/4 inch spacing or better to make cleaning easier. Modern treated pine does not last more than about 5 years, but costs a whole lot less than oak or maple, unless you have a friend with a portable saw mill. My neighbor goes with pine because he can replace it a time or two for what hardwood costs, and may not own the trailer forever anyway.

New pine has larger growth rings than wood of 30 years ago , as were growing it in faster rotations. The early wood is the light colored ring and is more rot prone than the denser (more resonous) late wood or dark ring. Oh im a forester by the way. But i dont beleive that it will only last 3-5 years!! COme on who here has a deck built in that last 20 years, how many times have you redecked it? You dont replace your deck every 3 years due to rot, so why is your trailer roting? Are we sure you all have Treated lumber and not one of the cheaper non-treated decks? Mine is 2.5 years old and all but say 6 months has been out in the sun. Looks pretty good. Only one half busted board due to a bad placed knot and a big load in the one spot, but it still will hold its just a bit cracked. I did spray a mixture of about 50/50 deisel and old oil on it though to help color and give it moisture wicking and rot resistance. Maybe that was the difference?
 
/ replanking my trailer question #16  
Check your treated lumber, might react with with your steel trailer. I use used motor oil, 1 light coat.
 
/ replanking my trailer question #17  
How big a plank (width & height) is optimal?
I'm sawing up some oak

264208d1336419983-do-you-use-cutting-area-8x6sam_0379.jpg

and am thinking of getting ready to redo my trailer.

Most people have been writing "2x12" etc. But is that "Home Depot" 2x12, actually more like 1.5 x 11.5 or an honest to good 2x12?

I can make it almost anything.
 
/ replanking my trailer question
  • Thread Starter
#18  
I STRIPPED IT TONITE,BOY IT WAS GETTING TENDER.The frame underneath still looked new.Iguess crawling under each yearand oiling it all has paid off.Iwas surprised the 14 ft planks were only screwed on 2 of the several cross peices and only with one screw in each.The ends are in a channel with metal on top.No way im gonna bend them to reinstall ,ill have to grind the welds remove the top part then weld it back in after.
Im still hemming and hawing over a gap.The old pt had so much dirt between it,it would actually grow grass on the trailer.
We also use the trailer to haul 4 atvs .my wifes afraid if i space them the road water will make every thing a filthy mess.If it was just for the tractor ,id put them suckers an inch apart.Idont know what im gonna do,gonna think on it a bit more.
The bolts that held the planks down,were about 1/4 inch,went right down through the steel,had a hex head.They were flat on the ends,so they are not self tappers,but yet i think they were self threading.Im gonna try to reuse,for they seem rugged and are still in good shape
Its dark now,but i try to snap a shot of the trailer stripped down.
Thanks for the advice,keep it coming
ALAN
 
/ replanking my trailer question #19  
If they are green i would put them right next to each other, they will shrink up to a 1/4" gap or so.
 
/ replanking my trailer question #20  
You are making this way too hard. Put the first few planks in at a angle and pound them over with a sledge to get them lined up. The last 3 or so put the front in the cup and then place a 12" or so long piece of 2x4 vertically on the rear axle and place the plank on it. No take your FEL, or if you do not have one a big fat buddy and have him step on it, and push the rear end down to the rear cup. Now take your sledge and knock out the piece of 2x4 you put on the rear axle. I do it all the time, maybe 4 times a year and it works great. I can replace the boards on your trailer in 15 minutes without grinding or cutting out the rear cup.

Chris
 

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