Replacing seized mower blades

[Clinite]

A stitch in time saves nine. First I am no expert. My problem was a Woods BB 60 mower that was neglected and needed blades attended too. I searched the Web for advice. I appreciate the shared knowledge , but was looking for more specifics. Here is my contribution to the knowledge base from my quest.

First, Blaster or the equivalent is a great product. The nut was soaked over night.



The most helpful advice is to secure the blade to negate the spin when using breaker bar to remove bolt. I found placing two 2x4 cut to length to wedge the support bar



Heat the nut, a good 15 min



Maximize torque



Apply more Blaster and clean build up around pin. Used hand sledge and appropriate rod to remove pin



Voila

 

[Dave M7040]

Consider in the future investing in a torque multiplier wrench. Was what all heavy equipment and truck tire people used for decades.

Torque Multiplier Lug Wrench, 1:78 Ratio, Heavy-Duty at EZLugWrench.com - YouTube

They easily generate over 1,000 lb-ft of torque.
When looking for one pay attention to their internal gear ratio. The higher the ratio the more power.

Here is one example from Amazon.

US PRO Tools HGV Truck Torque Multiplier 1" Drive Wheel Nut Wrench +Sockets 6911 | eBay

Dave M7040

 

[RjCorazza]

Ummm... I could have used that last year for a neighbor's mower blade that we couldn't get off with 450 ft/lb air tools (average homeowner variety). We ended up just replacing the whole spindle. Tried heat, pbBlaster, bars, etc. All to no avail.
Looks like a good tool to have around.

 

[Clinite]

Thanks. On my Christmas list.

 

[WranglerX]

I picked up a a 4:1 torque multiplier for $10 at local flea market... Similar to one below... Good to 1000 ft-lbs with max of 250 ft-lbs input...

Also be sure when tightening nut you meet torque specs, think someplace I read some go as much as 350 (+/-) ft-lbs...

Dale