Replacement for a Nimco Controls 14460-2s

[Colin1960]

I just bought a Massey Ferguson 1734 with a L105E loader on it. The joy stick for the loader is damaged. Looks like the joy stick broke off ( maybe something fell on it) and someone tried to weld it. They did a lousy job. Anyway up and down works fine but the bucket twist jams when dumping and you need to jiggle it to get it to stop which is hit and miss. When you take the boot off you can see the valve sticks in the depressed position. (Edit to correct mistake}

The valve is a Nimco Controls 14460-2s. Can not find a cross reference for it and it looks like it is not current because I can get no hits on it and when I phoned a local distributor he could not find it.

Can this be fixed? Can I replace it with something else? Massey wants $1808 for a replacement valve which seems excessive.

Added a picture

 

[Harry in Ky]

It sounds excessive because it is. The Nimco valves found on many modern (and I use the term loosely) compact and utility type tractor loaders are some of the lowest overall quality products out there. There are gobs of replacement units out there that will work as well (or better) for as low as $50. Most are $100 to $250. Just be mindful of what style and size ports your current valve has, or you can also just change out a few fittings and/or hoses if needed to put on whatever valve you like.

Google Search

 

[Colin1960]

I can see that but how do you know which one to get? There seem to be all kinds and I don't think they are all the same internally.

 

[Harry in Ky]

You're only working with seven GPM so pretty much any of the smaller units (10 GPM) will work for you. As for the "internals" a spool valve is a spool valve. Look for one with load checks, a float spool on one (if you think you need/want that) power beyond sleeve available, and (just my opinion here) O ring ports. I wouldn't go with the cheapest one out there, but then not the $500 version either. I've installed dozens over the years and usually find them for $125 to $250 depending on configuration.

 

[Colin1960]

You're only working with seven GPM so pretty much any of the smaller units (10 GPM) will work for you. As for the "internals" a spool valve is a spool valve. Look for one with load checks, a float spool on one (if you think you need/want that) power beyond sleeve available, and (just my opinion here) O ring ports. I wouldn't go with the cheapest one out there, but then not the $500 version either. I've installed dozens over the years and usually find them for $125 to $250 depending on configuration.

Well other than knowing what hydraulics are and the basics that anyone could pick up just looking I don't know much about these pieces of equipment. BUT I like to learn and understand and I really like DIY.

The valve has 3 connections to the pump on the tractor. 1 is labeled P3P2 and that is on one side of the valve block. This will be pump supply. On the other side of the valve block are 2 hoses, labeled T3A and T2B respectively. I believe these are the return lines back to the tank. I assume from what I have read that having 2 return lines, this valve has a float function. So if that is the case I need to get a control valve with a float function, does it matter which of the return lines is connected to which port?

Looking at the connections I would suspect they are O-ring connectors that use adaptors to JIC to connect to the hoses.

 

[Harry in Ky]

Good start. They do look like O ring ports with JIC adapters, but fittings can be deceiving. The second photo shows (probably) a power beyond sleeve and an adapter. Unless that's an elbow with a jam nut an SAE O ring fitting would not have a washer there. Three lines to the tractor indicates power beyond configuration, not necessarily a float function. A float spool will have a longer cover cap on the end than a non float spool.

 

[kneedeep]

A good local Hydraulic shop should be able to get you going

 

[CoyPatton]

While I have never used them, Summit Hydraulics has joystick style loader valves listed for $230-$280. Tractor time with Tim frequently mentions them in his YouTube videos. Give them a call or fire off an email where you can include photos. At $300 for a valve you are 1/6 of your quoted price.

 

[Massey convert]

The 911 loader's joystick on my Massey broke in the same place. I went to my dealer to buy the piece that broke and they handed me a new one, (covered by warranty).
The new one was similar but did not have a sharp corner where it was machined like the broken one.
I was prepared to make a new piece out of steel, and probably will if this one breaks.

 

[Colin1960]

Good start. They do look like O ring ports with JIC adapters, but fittings can be deceiving. The second photo shows (probably) a power beyond sleeve and an adapter. Unless that's an elbow with a jam nut an SAE O ring fitting would not have a washer there. Three lines to the tractor indicates power beyond configuration, not necessarily a float function. A float spool will have a longer cover cap on the end than a non float spool.

I had the pictures at a local hydraulic shop. He wrote the model and serial numbers down and is going to look it up and get back to me. I took same pictures to another shop and he said the same thing as you. 3rd hose is power beyond.

I talked to one NIMCO dealer in the US and he says it is a CV112 block but that they order it as a 14460-2s. 917US + 10% US duties. Payment ahead of time and 15 weeks lead time. I guess the 1460-2s describes the internals.

I would guess that the hose coming out of T3A port is for power beyond. I know people are selling kits to use the power beyond on these tactors and they want 1100 US for them.

Keep digging I guess. I thought these would be an off the self item not a custom build. Live and learn.

 

[Harry in Ky]

It IS an "off the shelf" item. You're simply over complicating it. Get away from Nimco numbers, look for something that fits, and go with it. People do this very thing every day. Personally I prefer components with O ring ports but that's not mandatory for anyone. We're guessing at this point that your current valve has O ring ports but until you actually remove one to confirm that you still don't know for sure. Most likely you can find a replacement valve with the same size/style ports, PROBABLY reuse the existing fittings and only need one or maybe two slightly longer hoses. Most likely not even that.

 

[Colin1960]

It IS an "off the shelf" item. You're simply over complicating it. Get away from Nimco numbers, look for something that fits, and go with it. People do this very thing every day. Personally I prefer components with O ring ports but that's not mandatory for anyone. We're guessing at this point that your current valve has O ring ports but until you actually remove one to confirm that you still don't know for sure. Most likely you can find a replacement valve with the same size/style ports, PROBABLY reuse the existing fittings and only need one or maybe two slightly longer hoses. Most likely not even that.

Thanks. I am a complete newbie on this. Both of the local hydraulic shops I was talking to were talking about ordering. I will look for something from Summit Hydraulics. I can order through Amazon. I am up in Canada and we don't have the shipping choices now with the trade wars going on. Amazon is the simplest. If I have Fedex or UPS bring it in it will cost 100 just to clear customs.

 

[Harry in Ky]

A quick look at Amazon shows at least a dozen different units, many of which would suit your needs, all in the $100 to $150 range. Many with #8 and #10 O ring ports. You're running out of excuses.

 

[Colin1960]

A quick look at Amazon shows at least a dozen different units, many of which would suit your needs, all in the $100 to $150 range. Many with #8 and #10 O ring ports. You're running out of excuses.

No excuses. It is simply a lack of knowledge. It might be simple to you but to me it is a completely new area of knowledge with no experience in it at all. No one wants to make a mistake, put the wrong valve or hook it up wrong and break something. Now you may say that is not possible but I don't know that and so I am trying to be safe. It is a matter of piecing it together and understanding what I have and how it is plumbed.

I have now done that. I looked at the schematic for the CV112 and read the documentation and now know which port is power beyond and the sizes of all the ports. Now I can look for a valve that suites.

I will update here with what valve I eventually go with so that people who come across this trail can just put it together.

 

[Harry in Ky]

If you've followed the existing lines, you know which lines go where on the tractor. (pressure in, power beyond, sump return) Those are the only critical ones. The four lines to the cylinders can be swapped back and forth endlessly until you get them right with no harm done. The only true obstacle is that any valve you find will have a different mounting bolt pattern so the mount will need (at least) one more bolt hole, possibly more work depending on various factors.

 

[LouNY]

Looking at your first picture, just what is broken where?
It looks to me like all you may need is the pin that goes from the bottom of the joy stick into the right hand valve spool. Just replace it with a button head bolt.

 

[Colin1960]

Looking at your first picture, just what is broken where?
It looks to me like all you may need is the pin that goes from the bottom of the joy stick into the right hand valve spool. Just replace it with a button head bolt.

The valve jams. It works but it does not return from a bucket jump

 

[LouNY]

Does it jamb because the actuator is broken or is the actual spool hanging up. In your picture it looks like the actuator is binding. and the pivot pin may be bent or broken

 

[Colin1960]

Does it jamb because the actuator is broken or is the actual spool hanging up. In your picture it looks like the actuator is binding. and the pivot pin may be bent or broken

Spool is hanging up. The valve works but when you go to twist open the bucket it sticks in that position and you need to physically pull it back to center. Up and down of loader arms is fine.

 

[Harry in Ky]

You might try loosening or even removing the cover on the back of the valve spool. It's not unheard of for the centering springs in there to get gummed up and not operate properly.