Repairing Yard..best methods and attachments

   / Repairing Yard..best methods and attachments #12  
The box blade should be able to do most of the work. If the ruts are really deep you malt need to rent a tiller which at least around here is a hundred bucks for the day. Final smoothing can be achieved by dragging some old chain link fence strapped to a pallet or an old old fashioned box spring. Tue latter is highly sought after in my area for this task with our moderate clay soil it works perfect for smoothing the surface to plant grass
 
   / Repairing Yard..best methods and attachments
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Thanks for all the replies folks. 2manyrocks mentioned that pics would help so I took a few so you could get a better idea.
Road 1.jpg
Road 4.jpg
 
   / Repairing Yard..best methods and attachments
  • Thread Starter
#14  
My road through the field and up to the barn is in much rougher shape but I can fix if pretty easily with the box blade..my question is how to keep it from constantly rutting out. I would think cutting a ditch on one side or the other would be the way but I am not sure which side it should be on..or how to decide that. This is new ground for me...pun intended :) and I threw in a picture of the new barn....I wanted one for years and very happy with it.
Road 5.jpg
Barn 1.jpg
 
   / Repairing Yard..best methods and attachments #15  
If possible, I would crown the road (higher in the middle) with ditches on both sides. If there is a place for the water to drain out of the ditches at the lowest point, you're done. If there isn't a place for the water to exit the ditch, cut in a swale (depression) for the water to go.
 
   / Repairing Yard..best methods and attachments #17  
Any dirt you spread will be washed away. Get control of the water runoff first. Now that buildings are up, walk the property during/after a rain. Look for where the water is flowing.
 
   / Repairing Yard..best methods and attachments #18  
Going to have get the water off the road. Some old road paths may have to built up with gravel from erosion to get proper drainage. Some soils really benefit from geotex fabric under the gravel. Box blade will work but does take time to figure out adjustments. From your pictures a box blade should work fine.

I would use gravel, not top soil to fill the ruts in the yard. Grass will grow over and you will have a better more forgiving surface if you ever have to drive over again. Gravel is easy to smooth. Several road paths around my buildings are done this way.

My grader blade and box blade sit unused after getting a EA land plane.
 
   / Repairing Yard..best methods and attachments #19  
first and second picture I would just add soil not much of a ruts there at least from what I can tell from the picture's. The one with the hill and the wash out I would make a ditch on both side crown the road and restore the vegetation or add A gravel or better 2inch minus... but if one or the other is not done you will always have to deal with this but in all cases you need to restore the vegetation or add materiel that will compact and keep the water out from the roads to keep it from happening.
 
   / Repairing Yard..best methods and attachments #20  
My road through the field and up to the barn is in much rougher shape but I can fix if pretty easily with the box blade..my question is how to keep it from constantly rutting out. I would think cutting a ditch on one side or the other would be the way but I am not sure which side it should be on..or how to decide that. This is new ground for me...pun intended :) and I threw in a picture of the new barn....I wanted one for years and very happy with it.
The yard ruts arent what I was thinking they would be. For those, I would just use a rake or chain drag to smooth. The field road, I marked in red because, IMO, the water source is somewhere higher up. The water source needs to be diverted away from the road. From what I’m seeing in your picture, the area marked in orange is sloping away from the road. IMO, I would slope the road (blue arrows) to the right and cut a ditch (green arrow). I would not crown this section.
Another picture looking from the gate to the top?

A problem area, IMO, is anyone using this path will be tempted to single track(use the same tire path) over and over. This leads to ruts and potholes.

B78EE524-6104-4463-BEB3-FB3BF4021BFC.jpeg
 
 
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