Repairing an old cultipacker

[3gunr]

I bought an 8 footer a few yrs ago for a good price , 3 of the wheels were missing and had been filled in with scrap metal of all shapes and sizes , wood bearings were shot, i cut the frame down put pillow block bearings on welded on a 2 in ball hitch. used it this past spring on a 10 acre field i had enrolled in crp. works great, much quieter now also.

 

[Gord Baker]

Cultipackers or Crowfoot Packers are used to bust up lumps of Clay/clay loam after plowing.
They leave a nice planting finish to the soil.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Yeaaa, the crowfoot packer really is the better design...

SR

 

[rScotty]

Cultipackers or Crowfoot Packers are used to bust up lumps of Clay/clay loam after plowing.
They leave a nice planting finish to the soil.

Oh, that explains why we don't see cultipackers where I live. Our only bulk crop is high mountain hay, and the soil it is grown on usually doesn't have clay.
Small vegetable gardens usually amend their soil using a power tiller.
Most sports fields are turf laid over a sand base, so they wouldn't use packing either.
rScotty

 

[shooterdon]

We don't use cultipackers here. What is it used for?

But regardless of the use, it seems pretty straightforwad to repair. I'd do pretty much the same as akajun....
I'm not sure about the basic alloy of the wheel, but not sure that it matters since we can see from the damage & holes that it appears a malleable alloy. My preference for this type job is the oxy/acetylene torch and that is what I would use for this job. That way I have pre-heat, post heat (if necessary) and braze/welding heat all available as needed.
Post heat is something I always do, but it isn't so critical with brazing as with welding. Just playing the torch over it as it cools should do it.
For the job I would definitely agree with high-nickel bronze brazing rod (much better than low fuming brass), I like a powder flux that can be applied as needed, and would make the patches of any type of mild steel.
It would surprise me if the repair didn't outlast the rest of the wheel. Why not try? What's to lose?
rScotty

We use them for food plots to press the seeds into the ground. Also, the grooves help retain water. The ones I have seen are all ancient and are a PITA to use. You drag them around.

I have seen newer ones that mount to the 3PH. Better design IMO.

 

[3gunr]

One of these days i will add a 3pt hitch to mine, it will make it easier to get into some tight spots

 

[wolc123]

One of these days i will add a 3pt hitch to mine, it will make it easier to get into some tight spots

That's a good idea. I think I will do it on the old $ 40 8-footer that I was planning on rebuilding this winter. I will cut it down to 6 ft, which should provide me with with several spare wheels, not counting the broken ones that I was going to discard.

The 6 ft width will provide better compaction along ridges and ditches, and will be easier to transport than the original pull-type 8 footer.

I like my other 7 ft pull-type cultipacker, because it works perfect hooked behind my 6 ft, 2-section drag, turning it into a very effective "cultimulcher". That is the best tool to use, prior to planting corn.

Having the additional 3 point 6 footer would be very handy at times, especially on smaller plots.