Repainting the 135

/ Repainting the 135 #22  
/ Repainting the 135 #23  
Jimmer:

For the paint I was using (BPS from Tractor Supply) it was 4 pints for every gallon of paint or primer.....or 1 can of hardner to every quart of paint. Tractor Supply sells there hardner in small cans I think there pints.

As the painting process go on you will get better at mixing smaller amounts of paint and hardner once you get a "feel" for the texture.
 
/ Repainting the 135 #24  
thanks for posting your thread, Whiskey. That's an amazing transformation of your YM187. I have a YM226 with the same colors. Didn't you use Massey Ferguson red and black paint from TSC? Which color did you use for the wheels?

How is the paint holding up?

Thank you also, Mark. What are your thoughts on selecting paint? What's the practical difference between $30 and $100 a gallon paint on a tractor used as a tractor?


When I was doing the CC, I stripped it down to the frame and then raised it up on a cherry picker to pressure wash and paint. The cherry picker made it easier to handle. Before painting, I wiped it down with acetone. My cherry picker won't lift the Yanmar, however.
 
/ Repainting the 135 #25  
2manyrocks:

You are correct.....

Massey Ferguson red
Gloss Black
Gloss White
All is BPS from TSC.

Paint is holding up great...I'm impressed with it.
 
/ Repainting the 135 #26  
2manyrocks said:
What are your thoughts on selecting paint? What's the practical difference between $30 and $100 a gallon paint on a tractor used as a tractor?.......

Cheaper paints are of lessor quality. The basic chemicals in high end (expensive) paints utilize more high solids (pigments). replace the vehicles (clear toning mixture) and replace it with additional UV screeners (Ultra-Violet blockers).

So, if you realize 24-36 months with the first signs of fading with a paint like Valspars BPS...You can realize ten times that amount of longevity with paints the use high solids and UV screeners. Longer still when clear coated with Urethane or Polyurethane clears. As always, you get what you pay for (usually).
 
/ Repainting the 135 #27  
Given the amount of time and labor required to tear down a tractor and paint it, looks like a person would want the best paint he can afford if he is going to keep it.

I've used the TSC paint, but not the other kinds. How about sharing some ideas of what other paint choices there are in terms of longevity and what one might expect to pay for them?
 
/ Repainting the 135 #28  
2manyrocks said:
Given the amount of time and labor required to tear down a tractor and paint it, looks like a person would want the best paint he can afford if he is going to keep it...........

That should be written in stone IMHO!

There are so many variables with purchasing...just paint.
One quart of color, say acrylic enamel from PPG jobbers, can range from $32-$70. depending on the color. A solid red color, because of it's ingredients of pigment and suspension vehicles will be considerably higher than, say black.

Now add the reducer, and depending on the ambient temperatures of where you're located, will dictate fast, medium or slow evaporation reducer to keep the paint wet enough, the drying times slow enough to maintain depth and clarity of the top coats during each pass.

Now add the catalyst (hardener)....
Then the substrate (primer). I most often use Epoxy based primers.

I realize I haven't given you a price...but I NEVER leave a paint store without spending a minimum of $200 for paint and related chemicals only.

Mark
 
/ Repainting the 135 #29  
Well, my friend who restores cub cadets, said he budgets at least $300 in paint and materials just to repaint a cub cadet garden tractor. I haven't asked him what he budgets to repaint a full size tractor. I think he pretty well sticks to acrylic enamel from NAPA.
 
/ Repainting the 135 #30  
2manyrocks,
sorry for the delay, been to busy to reply.What a lot of good info since I'm been away.
mark777 sounds like he is very knowledgeable with a lot of good ideas.I was suggesting the
glass guns only because I thought you were on a tight budget with no equipment.But the bottom line is probably borrowing or buying the right things to do the job.Assuming your going to do that, I will second mark777 on the gravity hvlp guns,I buy my primer guns from HF and they spray good enough.I would strongly reccomend going with a clearcoat no matter what brand you use.And again"you get what you pay for"
As mark said, pressure washing is good but if you can get a steam cleaner that would be better.It can never be too clean!!IMO I use a red scotch brite pad with dishwashing soap to "sand" the tight areas before your ready to paint.
One thing I haven't seen mentioned, I would use a non-sanding self etching primer/sealer as your 1st coat to promote adhesion to the old surface.
$300 sounds a little high but with 3 colors it may be.
 

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