Removing the Fuel Injector Pump

[DLTTrekkers]

And the 2 for the oilpan ?

 

[DLTTrekkers]

And the 2 ontop holding the vat box ?

 

[Tx Jim]

And the 2 ontop holding the vat box ?

The 2 bolts inside the vat(battery) box bolt location that he's referring to that need to be removed.

 

[DLTTrekkers]

Sorry for wrong spelling.
6 bolts around and 2 at bat box

 

[wukong]

I have removed 4 bolts from the areas indicated by the red arrows and the 2 bolts from the battery box. Where are the remaining two bolts located?

 

[wukong]

I believe I've found them. There appears to be long bolts that pass thru the pan and block into the clutch housing.

Yes, Got the engine out/

 

[wukong]

I need to get a replacement for the rear oil seal.The old seal is 5.755 OD 4.625 ID 0.500 wide. It is pitted badly and I cannot recover a part number, Can some one Provide me info to order a replacement

 

[DLTTrekkers]

That seal comes in a kit with a wearsleeve and a seal and must be installed with a spesial tool .
Get the agents to install it for you.

 

[wukong]

I would appreciate some advice here in timing the cam and fuel injector pump. The technical manual does not describe the timing marks on either the cam or pump gear. I have attached pictures of the gears. The idler is not bolted in, just placed on the block Placing the #1 piston to TDC is not a problem. What marks on the other gears are appropriate? For the cam I can always use the redneck timing method of finding the "sweet" spot where when you rock the cam backand forth the exhaust and intake valves will alternately open and then turn the cam 180 degrees. However for the pump, the only significance that I see is the bolt pattern. Help is appreciated.

 

[DLTTrekkers]

Make yourself a V iron with a longer extenion to the bottom.
Like a Y
Turn the crank to no 1 tdc.
Then put that open end on the crank and turn the cam till its mark alighn under that Y. Keep it there. Move over to the inj pump gear and do the same. If its a 4 sil...use the no 4 to alighn it. Now slide the idler in and recheck if its still on ite marks. Then you will be fine with the timing of the gears !

 

[wukong]

I have the JD254 tool. What I do not picture is the markings on the gears. On automobiles that I have worked on there were center punch dimples on the gears just below the teeth. The gears on my machine have no outer marks, What do the marks look like?

 

[DLTTrekkers]

That is the mark and the line is hoe your tool must line up with the senter of the gear.

 

[DLTTrekkers]

There is no marks on the idler !

 

[DLTTrekkers]

Lets try again.
That is the mark on the camgear.
That mark must aline under the long leg of your tool shaped like a Y

 

[DLTTrekkers]

That tool must lay on the gear like this.

 

[DLTTrekkers]

The same wil apply to the pumpgear. If the engine is a 3 sil you work with the no 3....if it is a 4 sil then you work with the no 4. And the same applies to a 6 sil engin !
Then you slide the idler in and recheck your markings on the gears !

 

[wukong]

I am now in the process of rebuilding the diesel engine and the TM calls for the rod cap bolts to be torqued to a value of 150 lb-in [12.5 lb-ft] with an additional turn of 60 degrees. This is about 1/4 of the torque required for gasoline engines. This value seems awful low. Is my TM right?

 

[wukong]

I seem to be missing part T26496 in my engine rebuilding as I can not find any part that look like the illustration. Furthermore, I cannot see how the anything is retained since the screw heads meet the aperture of the cam hub as seen in the photo of the gear. The gear is recessed from the gear face by 50/1000 inch, but bolting a washer would not retain the gear. I have been unsuccessful in finding this part with any vendor Can anyone shed light on this part as to how it works and a source for a replacement?