Removing sheared bolts

[bumperm]

If you don't have a lathe, some tubing might be substituted. A short length of tubing that will go into the hole, if necessary, wrap the tube with tape until it's sliding fit as snug as possible. Then use a drill that fits the ID of the tube. Me? I have a lathe.

 

[bgr]

1. 8.8 is the softer grade of metric bolt. That is good for your drilling.

2. SnapOn makes an excellent bolt removal kit with drills and locating sleeves for them to make sure you drill in the center of the bolt. It also includes their version of Easy Out which is not tapered and does not expand the bolt. Don't use a tapered easy out if you can avoid it. I have used the kit many times with no failures. Might be worth buying one or finding someone who owns it and has used it often. It will have a size good for your bolt, which is probably a 10mm or 12mm., not an 8mm.

3. If you do the work, blow out any dirt in the hole before you start, and blow out any chips from drilling before you try turning the bolt out. Put on some good penetrating oil(Kroil) after you clean the threads. Hopefully the bolt section in the hole will be loose, not seized or rusted.
If the bolt comes loose and starts coming out and binds, turn it back in a little and clean the threads where it bound with a 90 degree pick, blow it out again, and reoil before unscrewing the bolt again.

4. Before you start all this, go to a couple of local machine shops(Or good auto parts houses, NOT Auto Zone)and ask around to see if anyone local is good at taking bolts out. If you talk with several people about how they do it, you will get a feel of how to tell someone who actually knows how to do it. Get everyone to talk to you a little, so you can tell if they really are experienced. Talk with you local mobile guy after you have talked to a few others. Don't start by asking the price for the job. A guy who just quotes a price won't know much about how to do it. Someone who is experienced will explain it to you and tell you what they have done to remove other bolts.

5. If you don't get the SnapOn kit, buy some high quality cobalt LH drills from a machine ship supplier, on line if you have to. Don't use a cheap chinese drill which will break off. Start with a 1/8 drill and work you way up. Drill all the way through the bolt if it is not loose. This will release some pressure on it. But be extremely careful not to go too far. Keep checking with a flashlight to be sure of where you are. Measure one of the empty holes on the casing to find how deep they are and mark a piece of wire or welding rod to measure the hole depth as you go.

Good Luck!

 

[beowulf]

1. 8.8 is the softer grade of metric bolt. That is good for your drilling.

2. SnapOn makes an excellent bolt removal kit with drills and locating sleeves for them to make sure you drill in the center of the bolt. It also includes their version of Easy Out which is not tapered and does not expand the bolt. Don't use a tapered easy out if you can avoid it. I have used the kit many times with no failures. Might be worth buying one or finding someone who owns it and has used it often. It will have a size good for your bolt, which is probably a 10mm or 12mm., not an 8mm.

3. If you do the work, blow out any dirt in the hole before you start, and blow out any chips from drilling before you try turning the bolt out. Put on some good penetrating oil(Kroil) after you clean the threads. Hopefully the bolt section in the hole will be loose, not seized or rusted.
If the bolt comes loose and starts coming out and binds, turn it back in a little and clean the threads where it bound with a 90 degree pick, blow it out again, and reoil before unscrewing the bolt again.

4. Before you start all this, go to a couple of local machine shops(Or good auto parts houses, NOT Auto Zone)and ask around to see if anyone local is good at taking bolts out. If you talk with several people about how they do it, you will get a feel of how to tell someone who actually knows how to do it. Get everyone to talk to you a little, so you can tell if they really are experienced. Talk with you local mobile guy after you have talked to a few others. Don't start by asking the price for the job. A guy who just quotes a price won't know much about how to do it. Someone who is experienced will explain it to you and tell you what they have done to remove other bolts.

5. If you don't get the SnapOn kit, buy some high quality cobalt LH drills from a machine ship supplier, on line if you have to. Don't use a cheap chinese drill which will break off. Start with a 1/8 drill and work you way up. Drill all the way through the bolt if it is not loose. This will release some pressure on it. But be extremely careful not to go too far. Keep checking with a flashlight to be sure of where you are. Measure one of the empty holes on the casing to find how deep they are and mark a piece of wire or welding rod to measure the hole depth as you go.

Good Luck!

A lot to think about and good advice. The tractor guy has not gotten back to me yet.

 

[beowulf]

I appreciate all of the input. I know updates are important. The tractor guy got back to me today. He has had to deal with similar issues before. He said that the easiest way to take care of it - which he said will sound like a wrong way - is to cut the frame part off and then deal with the bolts and then weld the frame part back on. That way he can more easily access the bolts to remove them. He also said that the threads could be damaged (due to excessive vibration prior to the shearing) and it might require rethreading the holes - which he said is another reason to cut the frame part off to provide the access he would need. Anyway, it seems to be an issue he can handle, and he can do it here - his truck is outfitted with a welder, etc. He said he will try to come up and take a look and will call to arrange that. I told him I would pay him for his time to do that even if we don't go ahead with him doing it - just for his advice after he sees the situation. He also suggested replacing all of the bolts on the other side as they likely were stressed as well. So, waiting for him to come up.

Before the tractor guy got back to me, I contacted a machine shop, thinking they would have experience removing sheared bolts, and I could trailer the tractor there and have it done. The person answering the phone said that was a job they could do but I needed to talk to the guy who would be doing it. He has not called yet, but I think I will go with my tractor guy.

Again, thanks for all the input. Damn, I miss not having my tractor.
Ron