Trying to remove oil pan . I have no oil pressure . Needing to replace the oil pump. Looks like bolts to frame of tractor and the bottom of motor. Wondering if any goes through the case . Looks like there are 2 bumps that looks like there might be 2 bolts from inside the case. It is a one piece oil pan .
Removing oil pan on a Y385 on a Agracat 2940 engine build date 1999.
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piper184
Platinum Member
Do you have a parts manual for the engine? If not, have a look at the online parts diagrams at a dealer like Circle G or Affordable. They will give you an exploded view of how things go together.
Looking at my manual it would appear there are multiple points of failure that could cause the pump to not work besides the pump itself.
What did you do to determine there is no oil pressure? Gauges and wiring on these tractors is poor at best. A cheap mechanical gauge from any auto parts store will help in determining true oil pressure.
The manual I have shows 29 bolts holding the pan to the block and nothing looks like it connects anywhere else. Please post pictures of your tractor and the bumps your are referring to.
Looking at my manual it would appear there are multiple points of failure that could cause the pump to not work besides the pump itself.
What did you do to determine there is no oil pressure? Gauges and wiring on these tractors is poor at best. A cheap mechanical gauge from any auto parts store will help in determining true oil pressure.
The manual I have shows 29 bolts holding the pan to the block and nothing looks like it connects anywhere else. Please post pictures of your tractor and the bumps your are referring to.
Bob Rooks
Elite Member
If it's anything like the TY395 engine, the #10 pin has been known to fail. Also, make sure your relief valve located in the filter housing isn't stuck open from debris or sludge.
The tractor has not ran in over 3 years . The injection pump went out and cracked the front collar . It was completely out of time. The new injection pump is from what they say an upgraded version. It is lubricated from the oil filter housing . Well after a long time I finally got it timed right and it cranks right up now. All my gauges have been broke for awhile. I started it and looked inside the valve cover hole and saw no oil spitting out . I then went and got a mechanical gauge and and hooked it up no pressure. I took pipe off the side of motor where pressure sensor would go and oil would come out when running but not fast . Loosened oil filter and oil would also pump out of there. Then went and bought a actual pressure gauge for testing pressures . 0 pressure registered as also did on the mechanical pressure gauge. I then tried to crank up the pressure on the Side of the oil filter housing and it did nothing. I will try to get a picture and show the humps on the oil pan. Thanks for what help you all can give me . New this forum stuff.
The oil pan duos the look like to picture shown above . Mine has like 8 bolts on each side of pan that bolts to the frame . 6 bolts on each side of pan that bolts to the the block and 4 on the front of pan that bolts to the block. None on the back of pan next to bell housing . On the first picture posted on the back of pan next to bell housing is the metal bump if you follow it through the bell housing and back side of case there is a threaded shaft with a bolt on it . That is the problem not sure if that house all the way from pan through bell housing and out of back of case.
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Sorry to post so much the picture of this oil pan looks somewhat like mine . Well the only thing would be the bolt hole locations . Mine does not have a removable bottom plate , wish it did , it would probably make changing the oil pump easier. If you look at the back of pan there are no bolt holes but there is the 2 bumps that coincide with the bumps on bell housing . Picture does not look like any hole coming through the lower part part of bell housing but not sure if anyone has messed with this before.
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piper184
Platinum Member
That parts diagram looks like the one in my book except for the gasket between the block and the bell housing and the bell housing machined face. Mine was a 2006 model. Now I will have to go out and have a closer look in the morning when it gets light out.
I've never had a reason to give that part of the engine a second look and don't remember the exact layout.
Thinking about your oil flow but no pressure issue it sure seems like you are on the right track. It could be a sheered pin like Bob mentioned. The rotor would turn and move oil until pressure was built up enough to make it just spin on the shaft. Other things that come to mind is it looks like there is a pipe that takes oil from the pump to the filter base and there are gaskets at each end. If any of the mounting bolts are loose or if one of the gaskets are leaking it could cause what you are seeing.
Unfortunately I don't see any other option than to drop the pan and have a look.
I've never had a reason to give that part of the engine a second look and don't remember the exact layout.
Thinking about your oil flow but no pressure issue it sure seems like you are on the right track. It could be a sheered pin like Bob mentioned. The rotor would turn and move oil until pressure was built up enough to make it just spin on the shaft. Other things that come to mind is it looks like there is a pipe that takes oil from the pump to the filter base and there are gaskets at each end. If any of the mounting bolts are loose or if one of the gaskets are leaking it could cause what you are seeing.
Unfortunately I don't see any other option than to drop the pan and have a look.
piper184
Platinum Member
Looking at my 2006 engine, the drawing in the parts book that came with it is not quite accurate either. It would appear that mine has a "pan" that is actually more like a lower end of the block as it appears to be where the engine mounts on the frame of the tractor. The bottom cover plate is nearly as wide as the pan and is definitely not attached to the bell housing. I can not tell if the larger pan is connected to the bell housing or not. If it is, it probably would mean splitting the tractor if the bolt heads are under the flywheel.
There may have been different lower assemblies used on the same block depending on the final use of the engine. And of course changes over the years.
Sorry I don't have more information for you.
There may have been different lower assemblies used on the same block depending on the final use of the engine. And of course changes over the years.
Sorry I don't have more information for you.