Removing dry cylinder liners

[MBDiagMan]

Yes, the sleeve must be put in the bore, then topped and bored to fit with a boring bar.

 

[knightrider955]

My Long 560 had the motor rebuilt back in June. Its a 4 cylinder diesel. It had sleeves in it. The new sleeves had a machined finish on the outside but the inside was still rough, had a machines shop remove the old ones and press in the new ones. Then had the new ones bored to the proper size. Hated to pull the motor cause it meant splitting the tractor in half. Worth it though. Its done and it runs great.

 

[ModMech]

This all makes me want wet liners all the more!

 

[knightrider955]

Whats the difference between wet liners and dry ones?

 

[tglass]

If you have access to a welder run a couple of small beads inside the liner, same way you'd remove a bearing race.....Mike

Right, I remember now, used a sharp chisel one time when my weldin didn't do the job. Thanks for the correction.

 

[LD1]

Whats the difference between wet liners and dry ones?

Don't qoute me on this but it is my understanding that wet liners cover coolant jackets/water ways. (ie. with the sleeve out, you see water jackets in places)

With a dry liner, it is just a solid bore. No jackets are covered. With the liner out, it looks just like a regular cast bore.

 

[Eagleview]

Don't qoute me on this but it is my understanding that wet liners cover coolant jackets/water ways. (ie. with the sleeve out, you see water jackets in places)

With a dry liner, it is just a solid bore. No jackets are covered. With the liner out, it looks just like a regular cast bore.

You are correct , that is the difference .

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There are two types of dry liners , that is where the differences in advise are coming from .

One type have a lip and fire ring on the top that locates in a counter bore in the top of the block . They are hone finished and once shrunk with dry ice and fitted , they are ready for the pistons .

The other type just look like a large diameter piece of exhaust pipe that is pressed in , topped (machined flat with the deck surface) and then bored and honed .
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A wet liner has a lip and fire ring on the top that fits into counter bores in the block . They also have grooves to take "O" rings top and bottom , usually one at the top and two or three at the bottom . Because the liner covers the open water passages , it needs the "O" rings to seal the water passage . The lower "O" ring is oil resistant as it seals the oil from the sump as well . Wet liners can be removed and re fitted by hand .

You will see the first liner is a Dry type with no lip , the second is a Dry type with a lip and hone finished and the third is a Wet liner with "O" ring grooves , hone finished .

 

[033614]

You are correct , that is the difference .

...........................................................................................

There are two types of dry liners , that is where the differences in advise are coming from .

One type have a lip and fire ring on the top that locates in a counter bore in the top of the block . They are hone finished and once shrunk with dry ice and fitted , they are ready for the pistons .

The other type just look like a large diameter piece of exhaust pipe that is pressed in , topped (machined flat with the deck surface) and then bored and honed .
............................................................................

A wet liner has a lip and fire ring on the top that fits into counter bores in the block . They also have grooves to take "O" rings top and bottom , usually one at the top and two or three at the bottom . Because the liner covers the open water passages , it needs the "O" rings to seal the water passage . The lower "O" ring is oil resistant as it seals the oil from the sump as well . Wet liners can be removed and re fitted by hand .

You will see the first liner is a Dry type with no lip , the second is a Dry type with a lip and hone finished and the third is a Wet liner with "O" ring grooves , hone finished .

Yup, the second is the ones I have, they call them semi-finished over here, ready to finish honing once fitted. Head is done, new valves and springs, all ground in. New pistons, rings, big end shells and little end bushes and pins. Have started on the bodywork while I'm waiting for some fine honing stones to arrive. Not looking forward to taking the front windscreen out, lots of rust and rot around the bottom lip.

Bruce

 

[Eagleview]

You probably allready know this , an Air Drill or good Battery Drill is ideal for honing . They are slow enough to keep up with so you get a good cross hatch hone pattern .

Ive seen people using power drills and they are not quick enough in their up and down movements and get a near horizontal pattern or they go too far and crash into the crank or come out the top of the bore .

 

[033614]

You probably allready know this , an Air Drill or good Battery Drill is ideal for honing . They are slow enough to keep up with so you get a good cross hatch hone pattern .

Ive seen people using power drills and they are not quick enough in their up and down movements and get a near horizontal pattern or they go too far and crash into the crank or come out the top of the bore .

Got a variable speed drill, will run nice and slow. Pushed it in to get an idea how far in to go and made a mental note of whereabouts on the drill it came to. Works fine.
Thanks for the tip, I may not have known.

Bruce