Rotary Cutter Removing blades on brush cutter

[PitbullMidwest]

I need to pull the blades from my brush cutter and was wondering what is the safest way to go about it and how others have done it. My first thought is to use the FEL and simply turn it over on its back, gently of course.

Any thoughts?

 

[dtd24]

Its not going to work as well as it did with the blades on it. Just Kidding !!! I store mine on edge in my garage for the winter up against a wall. I would think you could do the same to get to the blades. I usually have 2 strong friends help me lift it into place. Costs about an 18 pack.

 

[Solo]

There is a hole in the top of the deck on mine that lines up directly over the blade holder. I remove the nut with an impact socket. I support the deck on blocks so it won't fall while I replace the blades.

Solo

 

[Charlesaf3]

haven't tried it, but when the time comes I expect I'll flip it with the FEL

 

[Rockin' G Ranch]

haven't tried it, but when the time comes I expect I'll flip it with the FEL

My rotary mower has an access plate on top to get to the nut. Since the bottom of the blade bolt is round (with no way to get a wrench on it) what is the point of flipping it on it's back? Just remove the access plate, rotate the blade carrier until the nut can be be accessed and remove it. The bolt is then knocked out via the access hole and the blade removed. The mower has to be supported above the ground so a new blade and bolt can be installed from underneath. The nut is then installed through the access plate on top.

 

[Willl]

18 pack ?

 

[john_bud]

18 pack ?

Must have lightweight friends....

jb

 

[dtd24]

lol John, if you only knew.

 

[wedge40]

Well he doesn't say what size brush cutter. I have a 6 ft, and I just took the blades off mine a little while back. (Still haven't gotten them back on). Like others have said mine has a hole in the top to get to the nut. I didn't have a big enough impact wrench so I had to use a rachet and breaker bar to get the nut off. Once the nuts were off, I still had to get the bolts out. They are pressed in with a keyway so they wont rotate when you tighten them. I had to us an 8lb sledge to get the bolts out.. I'm going to support the frame so I can get under it to get the blades on, and the nuts started. Then I'll use a impact wrench to tighten the bolts. They are suppose to be tightened to 650ft/lbs.

In my case I'm not sure flipping the thing over would have helped at all.

Wedge

 

[greggh]

Must have lightweight friends....

jb

Geez, I must be old. I can remember when my friends would work for a 6 pack.

 

[ore540]

Found the attached instructions out on the web.

Haven't tried it yet but it seems to match the instructions for the mowers which had the maintenance plate installed by the factory.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I go about it in one of 2 ways.

1st, and most commonly, I leave the mower attached to the tractor, raise the mower (with the 3-point hitch) and put jackstands under the skid rails. I still don't "get under" the mower any farther than just my arms. I have all Bush Hog mowers. (6 different ones currently) They have access openings on the top of the deck to reach the nut/bolt. I use an impact wrench to remove the nut, a punch to drive the bolt out, and then reach under the mower to replace the blade/bolt, re-installing the nut from above.

2nd method is essentially the same, except I hang the rear of the mower off one of my trailers with the front still attached to the tractor.

I sharpen blades in place, using much the same procedure(s).

 

[Rockin' G Ranch]

Found the attached instructions out on the web.

Haven't tried it yet but it seems to match the instructions for the mowers which had the maintenance plate installed by the factory.

Do you really have to be sure the blades are not turning before removing them???

 

[ore540]

Do you really have to be sure the blades are not turning before removing them???

I'll bet that when I was young and quick I could have gotten a socket on a spinning blade. But no more, I have to wait for them to stop. Such a waste of time

 

[madpogue]

Such a waste of time

And the irony is, time is the one thing we have so much less of, than when we were younger....

Whatever you do, I'd recommend you hit the threads with some PB Blaster penetrating oil before starting. Just looking at the size of those lugs/nuts, and given the conditions under which something like a mower lives, they're not gonna come easy.

Anybody know the typical torque setting, when it comes time to reinstall? Yeah, it's gonna vary with the mower, size, etc., but ball park?

 

[RalphVa]

On mine, I remove the tail wheel by taking out a couple bolts. Then I can insert a big socket into a hole in the top to get to the nuts on the bolts holding the swing blades. I remove them with a 6' pipe wrench over my socket handle initially, then just use a ratchet handle.

To put them back, I use a couple quick-connect clamps to hold the stump jumper and bolt in place. I use the 6' pipe wrench to "torque" the nuts, just need to judge when I've applied about 80# of push or when the nuts just won't move any more.

I just raise the back of the unit with a floor jack and insert a couple jack stands underneath the back of the unit. There's plenty of room on mine doing this.

Don't see what flipping it over would accomplish other than letter oil come out of the gear box breather and make a mess.

Ralph

 

[wedge40]

And the irony is, time is the one thing we have so much less of, than when we were younger....

Whatever you do, I'd recommend you hit the threads with some PB Blaster penetrating oil before starting. Just looking at the size of those lugs/nuts, and given the conditions under which something like a mower lives, they're not gonna come easy.

Anybody know the typical torque setting, when it comes time to reinstall? Yeah, it's gonna vary with the mower, size, etc., but ball park?

My Bush Hog says the torque is 650 ft/lbs. Remember we're talking a 1 11/16 nut and bolt.
Why they couldn't have gone with 1 3/4 nut and bolt is beyond me.

Wedge

 

[Highbeam]

Don't forget to retorque those nuts after running the mower for a few hours. I find that they always need to be tightened once after the installation. It is bad news to have a blade come off while mowing.

Also, no need to remove the blades unless you are replacing them. Just sharpen while on the mower and for this activity there is some benefit to flipping the mower on its side. Though I don't do it, I simply reach under the mower with the 4.5" grinder with the mower hanging over the edge of the trailer.

 

[PitbullMidwest]

Thanks everyone for all the responses. I'm a bit embarrassed to admit that I had never noticed or paid any attention to the inspection cover on top of the cutter. I pulled it off this weekend and low and behold, there was the nut that attaches the blades to the stump jumper.

The cutter is about 25 years old and has had a rough life. The blades are in bad shape so I'll probably go ahead and replace them. Again thanks for all the replies.

 

[Rara Avis]

It is bad news to have a blade come off while mowing.
.

So to overcome the bad luck...over which shoulder do you throw the loose blade?...