Remove plow from loader and mount on tractor

[sqdqo]

I currently have a snow plow mounted on my loader boom with angles controlled by a rear outlet. I want to get it off the boom, remove the loader and mount the blade directly to the front of the tractor. Can I use the four outlets that supply the loader and use the loader joystick to control up-down-right-left with it?

 

[xring100]

I currently have a snow plow mounted on my loader boom with angles controlled by a rear outlet. I want to get it off the boom, remove the loader and mount the blade directly to the front of the tractor. Can I use the four outlets that supply the loader and use the loader joystick to control up-down-right-left with it?

Yep sure can OEM front mount plows do what your talking about

 

[aczlan]

Shouldn't be a problem. That's how the blade is controlled on our BX2660.

Aaron Z

 

[davel8257]

What does your current setup look like? What's wrong with the way it is?

 

[sqdqo]

I have a 9' commercial blade weighs about 1K. I plow a 2-1/2 mile piece of road that our county doesn't maintain. I know it's putting a lot of linear stress on the loader boom and it acts like a big lever pushing the front of the tractor all over. I don't want to damage the loader a I want to make the tractor more proficient at pushing snow on the roadway.

QUOTE=davel8257;3591055]What does your current setup look like? What's wrong with the way it is?[/QUOTE]

 

[Piston]

How are you going to mount it to the front of the tractor?

 

[sqdqo]

My plow has a Meyer A frame. I am going to buy a heavy duty Meyer truck mount and fab it to fit the tractor. Bolt on so I can remove it when the time comes.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

Look up a thread by ASGAR, I copied his design twice. Once for a B series tractor and once again for an L series tractor. Currently using the L series still to plow the driveway. I mounted the subframe to the loader support for the push frame and the brush guard has a nice little lip to hang the front end from. It all bolts together and has 0 slop. The lifting post quicklydisconnects so that the loader can be put back on for our normal everyday tasks. I would never mounted a plow on the loader after using this set-up. I have some pictures of my build in that build thread. Subframe Snow Plow

 

[sqdqo]

Your set up looks great! I had similar in mind just wasn't sure if there were any reason I couldn't use the loader control for the plow operation.

Look up a thread by ASGAR, I copied his design twice. Once for a B series tractor and once again for an L series tractor. Currently using the L series still to plow the driveway. I mounted the subframe to the loader support for the push frame and the brush guard has a nice little lip to hang the front end from. It all bolts together and has 0 slop. The lifting post quicklydisconnects so that the loader can be put back on for our normal everyday tasks. I would never mounted a plow on the loader after using this set-up. I have some pictures of my build in that build thread. Subframe Snow Plow

 

[zzvyb6]

It's very easy to match up the A frame of your plow to the tractor undercarriage. I use two square tubing beams dropped forward and down from what used to be the mid-mower mounts. Its attached with studded spherical joints. I have it as close to the front weight bar as possible to allow full plow angling in both directions. I use a double acting cylinder for up/down so I can crack ice buildups using reverse gears. The two single acting OEW plow cylinders are connected in anti-parallel which produces a double acting effect. I used car brake lines to restrict the flow to the angle cylinders. The loader joystick controls make the snow and gravel plow a natural tool. I added two extra trip springs to keep things moving without hiccups. I have shimmed the skid shoes so that the plow blade rides about 1/4 to 3/8 inch above the driveway gravel.

No problems steering or moving any type of snow at any angle and with any road gear. I can outrun cars trying to follow me down my dead-ended road. Extra front weight and loaded rear tires are the only other recommendations. This tractor has 4 wheel drive and left/right brake steer for zero radius turns. When I finish with my 800' driveway and the horseshoe turnaround, the machine has not even warmed up fully.

 

[ishiboo]

If the loader valve is integrated with the loader (like on my LA650/L3650), it's probably easier to use a new power beyond spool valve for the plow. If it's integrated with the tractor like the newer Kubotas are, then you can easily use the loader valve.

 

[matoyan]

Holly Cow!!!!! ASGAR is a genius!!!! I have the same plow and I would love to attach it to my 750. I just wish I had a welder or better yet, knew how to weld.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

Today is a good time to go buy a welder and start throwing sparks! I use the loader control valve for my plow and its a little jerky but I basically just bought couplers and extended hoses and hooked it up. Never has given me problems. Its not a difficult project to tackle. Most metal suppliers cut your pieces to your spec. Then you can have it welded together after some careful measurements and just drill your holes. I highly encourage anyone to attempt it if they have any hand tool abilities.

 

[nybirdman]

I have had both and much prefer the FEL mounted plow.I would suppose it depends on the size of your tractor.The smaller tractors would probably get pushed around by a FEL mounted plow.Mine at 7000lbs does not have this problem.I like the ability to quick change to a bucket and to pile the snow high.As long as your trip springs are in working order I don't see how you could tweak the FEL.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

I can quickly change back to the loader as well. Pop 4 quick connects, pull two pins and back away. Pull one more pin and the lift mast slides out easily. Pull over to the loader and hook up as normally. Not very difficult. I actually prefer using the little tractor for plowing snow as it is much more manuverable and the HST is wonderful for quick manuvering. Once I put front tire chains on I can push snow with the 7.5' plow till its rolling over the top with no issues. The bigger tractor is reserved for the HD tasks and not plowing snow. Although the heated cab on the bigger tractor would be nicer on the cold days. I currently clear a parking lot but have no need to stack snow 10ft high. If you have to stack it that high, maybe a snow pusher makes more sense for your use? Any time I have resorted to using a bucket I was extremely dissappointed in the efficiency of moving snow.

 

[nybirdman]

If I have to change my plow back to the bucket it is not for snow removal generally.This winter because of the ice storm the only way I could open my road was with the bucket/tooth-bar.Four inch thick slabs of ice,layer of snow and another inch and half of ice.Impossible to plow or blow.My bucket is equipped with a thumb for wood gathering purposes in winter.