Remove a broken but/screw/cap

/ Remove a broken but/screw/cap #1  

RedTailHawk

Bronze Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2012
Messages
57
Location
Capon Bridge, WV
Tractor
Kubota L3430
I opened up the fill hole and added more gear oil to the gear box on my Woods Brushbull. Over tightened when I closed it up and it snapped off leaving part of it threaded in top of gear box. Any tips on getting the broken piece out? Image1465671044.403870.jpg
 
/ Remove a broken but/screw/cap #2  
/ Remove a broken but/screw/cap #3  
I opened up the fill hole and added more gear oil to the gear box on my Woods Brushbull. Over tightened when I closed it up and it snapped off leaving part of it threaded in top of gear box. Any tips on getting the broken piece out?View attachment 471568
Yep, clean it up real well then lay a nut centered on top of the broken stub. Weld the nut to the stub though the hole in the nut. That will give you something to wrench the plug out with. I would say drill and ez out but you'd risk getting shavings and chips in your case.
 
/ Remove a broken but/screw/cap #4  
It looks like there is already a through hole there, so the first attempt should be with a spiral easy out. Since it appears that the shoulder caused the break, the threaded-in remains shouldn't be in that tight.
Normally I'd go for the weld on nut option, but it looks like there is a lot of gear oil on everything; cleaning that up to get an acceptable weld would take a lot of effort, plus the fire factor.
 
/ Remove a broken but/screw/cap #5  
I opened up the fill hole and added more gear oil to the gear box on my Woods Brushbull. Over tightened when I closed it up and it snapped off leaving part of it threaded in top of gear box. Any tips on getting the broken piece out?View attachment 471568

The plug has a flange on it that may be the seal surface and threads may not be tapered. Use a center punch and punch it between the center hole and the outside diameter being carefull not to slip and damage the internal threads, turning it counter clockwise. It may just spin out not needing the easy out
 
/ Remove a broken but/screw/cap #6  
The broken part looks like it's brass. It shouldn't be too hard to get out. A small chisel or a punch like was already mentioned. Reverse twist drill bits work really well in situations like this too.
 
/ Remove a broken but/screw/cap #7  
If no mig welder to do what post#3 said, easy out and drill with with reverse drill bit.
 
/ Remove a broken but/screw/cap #8  
I'd keep it simple to start with... use a pair of long-nose pliers (needle-nose?). Down through the hole, open up and then twist. raise it to the point that you can get a vicegrip onto it to finish the job.
 
/ Remove a broken but/screw/cap #9  
Cork it and keep it in there.
 
/ Remove a broken but/screw/cap #10  
I have also heard of lightly hammering in a large triangle file into the hole in the broken fitting and then putting a wrench on the file and getting it out. The other time I had to deal with a 1/2 NPT fitting broken off in a valve block I was able to get a internal pipe wrench in and get it out.
 
/ Remove a broken but/screw/cap #11  
That is a brass vent cap so when you get the broke part removed replace it with another vent cap. Don't plug it the heat will cause pressure and could blow out the seals. The idea of the triangle file will work as well as the other suggestions. At least you don't have to drill it just stick in the file or the right size ease out.
 
/ Remove a broken but/screw/cap #12  
gonna be hard to weld brass, use easy out
 
/ Remove a broken but/screw/cap
  • Thread Starter
#13  
good to know. I was just going to ask if I needed to replace with another part just like it or if I could just use a hex cap bolt. guess I'll start searching for a brass vent cap.
 
/ Remove a broken but/screw/cap #14  
Looks to me like it is a parallel thread I would start with a flat blade screwdriver that fits in the hole but wont go all the way through and with a bit of pressure down with your hand try to unscrew it. If that doesn't work then i would try an ezy out if you have to get some then buy the square or coarse threaded ones I do not like the fine ones as I find they try to wind into the hole too far forcing the bit to be removed harder out into the thread


Jon
 
/ Remove a broken but/screw/cap #15  
Looks to me like it is a parallel thread I would start with a flat blade screwdriver that fits in the hole but wont go all the way through and with a bit of pressure down with your hand try to unscrew it. - Jon

Yeah, that'd work too. Perhaps adding a wee wedge of wood to brace the screwdriver against whilst unscrewing.

As I said earlier, keep it simple at first. Of course, if this is a perfect excuse to add an esy-out set to your workshop then I wouldn't want to hold you back. ;)
 
/ Remove a broken but/screw/cap #16  
good to know. I was just going to ask if I needed to replace with another part just like it or if I could just use a hex cap bolt. guess I'll start searching for a brass vent cap.

Older Woods mowers didn't have that vent cap but just a plug but it'd be safer to put back whatever came on it as the engineering could have changed a bit. Messicks carries Woods brand start there for a replacement vent cap. You'll need to know the model # to get the right diagram to look at. Another parts supply should also have them. I don't guess it'd have to be brass.

Hard for me to make a suggestion on what kind of ease out to buy haven't had much luck with any of them and finally broke down my billfold and got a snap on set. They seem heavy built but the spirals sure are aggressive and keep digging into the broke piece while you're turning just as banjodunnmentioned. I still like the tapered square ones.
 
/ Remove a broken but/screw/cap
  • Thread Starter
#17  
The gear box was a generic replacement, so it is a little different from OEM. I'll search for a replacement brass vent cap to match.

In the meantime, I used a flat blade screwdriver, gently wedged it into the hole and easily backed out the broken piece. Since my Woods Brush Bull sits outside I needed to cover the plug hole. I used a Snapple drink cap and some duct tape to hold it in place. Hopefully I'll find the brass vent cap during the week and can bring it back out to my cabin next weekend.

Thanks for all the help
 
/ Remove a broken but/screw/cap #18  
I opened up the fill hole and added more gear oil to the gear box on my Woods Brushbull. ------

Image1465671044.403870.jpg
Glad that you were able to get the broken piece out so easily. :thumbsup:

From the picture it looks like the gear box is completely full. If so that is not good. :thumbdown:
 
/ Remove a broken but/screw/cap
  • Thread Starter
#19  
From the picture it looks like the gear box is completely full. If so that is not good. :thumbdown:

Glad you pointed that out. How full should it be? I'll siphon some out to the appropriate fill level before I use it.
 
/ Remove a broken but/screw/cap #20  
If it has a plug on the side of the gear box, that is the full level.

Otherwise just above the input shaft. Wrong

Edit: Just looked at my gear box, it lines up with the bottom of the input shaft
 
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