Remotes: should I spring?

   / Remotes: should I spring? #1  

Laminarman

Gold Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2003
Messages
492
Location
Upstate NY
Tractor
TC40DA
I'm not sure if I need them or even what they really are, but I can tell you I'd sure like rear remotes if they can help me level a box or plow side to side, and raise or lower the top link without getting off the machine. Is the top link via hydraulic control the same as a topNtilt or whatever? I have a NHTC40DA, and would like to investigate this further. My dealer is working up pricing now for me. Any help appreciated.
 
   / Remotes: should I spring? #2  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Is the top link via hydraulic control the same as a topNtilt or whatever? )</font>

Yep, the "top" part is for the top link to tilt implements front to rear and the "tilt" part is for a hydraulic cylinder for one (or both) of the side links to tilt implements side to side. And if you ever have it, you'll never want to be without it again. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
   / Remotes: should I spring? #3  
Wish I ordered some when I bought my tractor. It's not the end of the world, but it would have been easier to get them on in the first place.
 
   / Remotes: should I spring? #4  
The last time I looked at the pricing, (about six months ago), list price for the first Class III rear remote was ~$250, while the 2nd and 3rd remotes were list at ~$213 each. When I bought my TC40D, the dealer installed them for that price. The right tire needs to be removed to install the remotes.
 
   / Remotes: should I spring? #5  
Laminarman, Yes you should spring, it is everything you are imagining. here is a photo of the hydraulic cylinders (T&T)operating a box blade and connected to two remotes (not in photo). Not only can you do the side to side ("tilt") and forward and back ("top", kind of like nodding your head), but the arrangement also makes it very easy to connect you implements.
 

Attachments

  • 437574-topandtiltjune.jpg
    437574-topandtiltjune.jpg
    54.2 KB · Views: 500
   / Remotes: should I spring?
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Thanks for your help. I have limited seat time, and I hate getting up and down three thousand times to adjust implements (especially plowing...ugh). I have to see what the pricing comes in at. It definitely sounds like a great thing to have. Safe tractoring and thanks again.
 
   / Remotes: should I spring? #7  
The total cost for your tractor (remotes and TnT) should be about $950 to $1000. It's not cheap, but it's worth every penny. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

See the attachment for my installation on my TC45D.
 

Attachments

  • 437614-Jims-TnT.jpg
    437614-Jims-TnT.jpg
    61.8 KB · Views: 489
   / Remotes: should I spring? #8  
Jim...... looks like that one hose over the red cylinder is getting ready to go to the big hose heaven. When they start to crack like that, it is time to have the replacement ready to be put on. If you get the replacement hose and have it ready, then the old one will last forever. If you don't have a spare, it will blow on a Saturday afternoon after the parts store closes and Monday is a holiday. You have a lot of projects to do and a broken down tractor..... Experience speaking... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / Remotes: should I spring? #9  
You can see in Jims reply that he has 3 remotes ... I only have 1 ... wish I had 2 ... get 'em .. pricey but you'll thank yourself later.
 
   / Remotes: should I spring? #10  
Jim, replace that hose before it blows. We see serious injuries from hydraulic oil being injected right through the skin into the muscle or onto the eye. One advantage of socks over hoses in addition to ultraviolet protection is mitigating that high pressure spurt. Besides, you can pump a lot of oil out of a transmission/oil pump pretty fast, especially if it's not squirting on you ! Also it can be <font color="red">HOT </font> /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
Infection inevitably follows and I've seen some disfiguering/disableling consequences. It would seem to me a longer hose so the bend is not so acute and/or some angled fittings would help.
 
   / Remotes: should I spring? #11  
Yep i worked in AirForce on Hydraulics systems running at 4000 psi ave pressure. talk about some damage if a pin hole was in a pipe/tube or hose! It will cut through sheet metal like nothing! we also pressure tested and SET titanium Hyd Lines, which were pressure tested upwards of 25,000 PSI. we BLEW a few of them at that pressure talk about some MESS! Even inside the CRASH BOX it would scare the beegebbers out of ya... I was the Test Stand Mech for about 2 years and as such got the FUN of fabbing up a NEW CRASH box and trying out all the NEW hyd lines made, (the titainum ones each had to be SEt at MAX pressure otherwise they would straighten out and not fit the plane right!.)

had soem seal things that kind of looked like a muffler strecher tool to seal up the ends and one end would have a fitting to hook to the test stand, had to blead out all the air first as that woudl compress and make a bomb if not carefull.

anyhow one day I blew an ACCUMEULATOR 4" by 24" and it shot fluid about 35 feet across the shop and all over the place! did that on a saterday and took about 2 hrs to clean the mess up afterwards. but was probably less than a quart or two of fluid just a nice slick oozy spray.... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

One of the reasons you NEVER check for a LEAK with you're hands, can cut off a finger if not carefull... not to mention once it is injected usually the limb is nearly lost to infection and tissue damage! stuff is not to be plaied with under pressure....

Mark M
/forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif
 
   / Remotes: should I spring?
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Hey Jinman and all others. I ordered the TnT and remotes, and the dealer is doing 50 hour service, pick and drop off, plus installation for $575. Bummer however since he told me there is no hydraulic available for the lower right adjustable arm, and that is what I REALLy wanted (for plowing). I have a NH TC40DA. Is that correct? I'm bummed. I didn't want to do any more hand cranking.
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

New Holland WorkMaster 37 (A53317)
New Holland...
2016 Ram 4500 Chassis Ambulance (A59230)
2016 Ram 4500...
2013 PETERBILT 389 (INOPERABLE) (A55745)
2013 PETERBILT 389...
Adams Under Truck Conveyor (A61307)
Adams Under Truck...
JOHN DEERE 9560R SCAPER SPECIAL TRACTOR (A60430)
JOHN DEERE 9560R...
2018 Toro Groundsmaster 4000D Batwing Commercial Rotary Mower (A59228)
2018 Toro...
 
Top