rear work light kit

[tony binkowski]

hey just got the kit and it looks easy enough but the guys at the dealer said that u have to drop the head liner in the cab to pull down some wires? btw its a b3000 and i dont want to f@#! it up! any help from the veterans would rock thx

 

[JJZ 109]

hey just got the kit and it looks easy enough but the guys at the dealer said that u have to drop the head liner in the cab to pull down some wires? btw its a b3000 and i dont want to f@#! it up! any help from the veterans would rock thx

I put one of those kits in the B3030 cab that I used to own. I didn't drop the whole headliner. If I remember correctly I removed all the fasteners from above the rear window, and a couple from each side. I think the knob had to come off of the fresh/recirculation air vent lever. I was able to pull the liner down enough to get at the factory pigtails.

 

[tony binkowski]

thx for the info!!!!

 

[JJZ 109]

thx for the info!!!!

Let us know how you did. It was a couple years since I did mine and I've since gotten rid of the tractor and went to a skid steer. I was trying to go from vague memories. Hope it helped you out a little.

 

[bandit67]

If you haven't gotten to this yet, dropping the headliner isn't that big of a project. I did it just to see what was up there (had conflicting info on whether speakers were up there already or not), and wanted to get a general idea of what was going on up there for some potential future projects I have in mind.

You don't necessarily have to drop the whole liner to do the lights, but it might make it a little easier depending on how they tucked the wires up in there.

 

[srs]

Hi Tony, if possible can you post a picture or two where the wires are? Appreciate it! Stanley

 

[JJZ 109]

If you haven't gotten to this yet, dropping the headliner isn't that big of a project. I did it just to see what was up there (had conflicting info on whether speakers were up there already or not), and wanted to get a general idea of what was going on up there for some potential future projects I have in mind.

You don't necessarily have to drop the whole liner to do the lights, but it might make it a little easier depending on how they tucked the wires up in there.

Of course you've got a new model and mine was a 2009, but I know that there were no speakers in mine. I do remember the antenna wire being way up in the right front (as you sit in the seat) corner. I had the complete liner in & out several times doing the speaker/stereo install. I also bought Kubota's stereo mount, which will take pretty much any car stereo and aligns with existing bolts to install. You're right in that it isn't that big of a project. An extra pair of hands would have been nice a few times, but I managed to do it solo.
I'm trying to remember, but I think that you have the obvious plastic fasteners around the perimeter, a couple of screws to take the face plate off of the climate control panel and then the little knob on the fresh/recirculate air lever. I don't recall if that had a set screw in it or not.

 

[tony binkowski]

its 15 below zero here and shop isnt heating enough to do it but as soon as it gets alittle warmer i will get it done and post info

 

[tony binkowski]

15-below zero shop isnt heating enough for project but i will get info to you as soon as it gets warmer, i hope. hope all is well!

 

[bandit67]

No speakers in the B3000 either. That's why the radio install kit runs $300. I plan to do a radio at some point, but have found some decent aftermarket setups that would allow me to bypass the Kubota install kit. But I also plan to eventually add a backup camera to make snowblowing with my 3pt blower easier.

Just need to decide if I do 2 different setups, or and all-in-one stereo/camera screen.

Yeah, we had that cold for a couple weeks here. Virtually no new snow during that cold blast, either. So I wasn't all that motivated to be out in the garage/shop much. I did plow a 3/4" snowfall just because the tractor had been sitting for nearly 3 weeks. Now Denver is supposed to brush a record high close to 70* tomorrow.

 

[JJZ 109]

No speakers in the B3000 either. That's why the radio install kit runs $300. I plan to do a radio at some point, but have found some decent aftermarket setups that would allow me to bypass the Kubota install kit. But I also plan to eventually add a backup camera to make snowblowing with my 3pt blower easier.

I got an aftermarket Pioneer stereo, Kubota's mount and some brand X speakers. I never was happy with the setup. I'm sure that you're aware of the previous complaints on the in cab hydro whine on the 3030's. Hopefully that's been addressed on your 3000.
Combine hydro whine with cheaping out on the speakers and it was a recipe for unhappiness. I think Waxman had far better results than I did. I had to crank it to hear anything and it wasn't enjoyable. If I had to to do all over, I'd have spent $50 on a Worktunes headphone radio and been done with it. In fact, I now have the Worktunes and use it in my Bobcat quite often and am happy with it.

 

[bandit67]

Yep, I read up on all the B3030 radio posts, including yours. The B3000 may have a little more sound insulation than the B3030 as Kubota claims, but I don't know for sure. There is quite a bit of foam deadening around & under the floorboard. I did a little digging around because I am considering adding some more and needed to see what was already there, but Kubota actually did more than I thought they would have. I still think I can improve on some of it with some better quality stereo sound isolation/deadeners, and some additional foam at some of the floor penetrations.

There is a decent amount of hydro whine that makes it's way into the cab. Pretty much the same as my open station B3030, but the sound that makes it into the cab is definitely amplified by the cab.

I do think with a little more work in the sound isolation dept, and a decent set of speakers, I can create a decent sounding radio setup that I can live with. I've been using headphones & my iPhone, but I've decided that I would prefer an in-cab radio. There are a couple companies that specialize in tractor stereo systems, and since they're small companies and I can talk with the owner, I'm pretty confident we can come up with a system that will work pretty well. One thing I think will be critical is a set of self-contained speakers that I can mount close to my head, and utilize some rubber sound isolation to keep the tractor vibrations away from the speakers & housings.

Since I don't expect to need any bigger machine in the foreseeable future, I think I can customize this one to my liking, without worrying about losing my butt on the upgrades when I trade it in. Knowing I wanted a cab of some sort is what kept me from going too crazy with upgrades to my B3030, but after nearly 5 years with this size machine, I'm still very happy with it, even moreso now that I have my cab, so I have the time & motivation to try to get this machine all set up exactly the way I want it. Plus, I don't want anything to do with any of that Tier 4 stuff on my tractor for a long, long time. Bad enough I have to deal with that power & mileage robbing garbage on my truck.

 

[srs]

Yep, I read up on all the B3030 radio posts, including yours. The B3000 may have a little more sound insulation than the B3030 as Kubota claims, but I don't know for sure. There is quite a bit of foam deadening around & under the floorboard. I did a little digging around because I am considering adding some more and needed to see what was already there, but Kubota actually did more than I thought they would have. I still think I can improve on some of it with some better quality stereo sound isolation/deadeners, and some additional foam at some of the floor penetrations.

There is a decent amount of hydro whine that makes it's way into the cab. Pretty much the same as my open station B3030, but the sound that makes it into the cab is definitely amplified by the cab.

Bandit, not to hijack Tony's thread but if you do any kind of added sound insulation if you would be so kind I would appreciate what and how you're doing it. Anything that would work to quiet my B3030 would be welcomed. Thanks, Stanley

 

[bandit67]

Will do.

Also, I could have sworn I took pictures when I had the headliner down so I had a reference for future projects, but I can't find them anywhere. Could have been I was planning to, then never got around to it. I don't know. Middle age sucks sometimes.

 

[tony binkowski]

just about to start install rear lights. not happy about the whole head liner dismantel but here it goes!

 

[BizDoc]

I have the lights connected outside, and understand dropping the back of the headliner, but the fasteners to reconnect the headliner, Are these a plastic rivet? Can I get the plastic rivets and a plastic rivet gun at a general hardware store or Lowes? I suppose they are size specific?

Thank you.

 

[bandit67]

The factory plastic headliner fasteners are reusable. It's been a while, but if I remember correctly, you push the center pin in slightly, then you can pull the entire fastener out of the headliner. To reinstall, pull the center pin partway out of the fastener, reinstall the fastener, then push the pin back in flush to hold the fastener & headliner in place.

 

[BizDoc]

Thank you Bandit67. That is very helpful. I was dreading the process, but this will make it much better. I appreciate your response tremendously.

Merry Christmas.
Michael

 

[Fallon]

The factory plastic headliner fasteners are reusable. It's been a while, but if I remember correctly, you push the center pin in slightly, then you can pull the entire fastener out of the headliner. To reinstall, pull the center pin partway out of the fastener, reinstall the fastener, then push the pin back in flush to hold the fastener & headliner in place.

Yup. Push the center in a quarter inch or so with a punch or dowel. A screwdriver would work, but might mar the plastic. Then you can pull the whole pin out with fingernails or slipping something thin under the head & wiggling gently.

It's easy to see how they reinstall once they are out. Push the center bit out from the back side so it stands proud. Put it in the hole. Then press the center flush with your finger.

You shouldn't need to pull the headliner to install the work lights. Unless you reengineer the whole electrical system like I did. And then you remove the roof, not the headliner. The OEM work lights have the harness already in place. Plug them into the plugs on the outside. Then remove the vertical trim piece on the right side pillar. The switch connects behind it & goes in the knockout. You may even get lucky & be able to plug in the switch without removing the trim at all.

 

[dougtrr2]

If you need to get replacements check an auto parts store. They have a pretty good variety of those type of fasteners.

Doug in SW IA