rear remote kit

[retiredolman]

i im sure this has been asked thousands of times but?
Im searching for a good rear remote kit for a 2014 kubota b3350.....any help?

 

[powerscol]

Check with your dealer.

 

[Sysop]

If you're looking to build your own, everything you need can be found at surpluscenter.com

 

[project_X]

I just installed they rear hydraulic loop for my in preparation for my rear remotes on my B3300.

For me the control valve power beyond was a 3/4-16 ORB to 9/16 jic m elbow

And the input to the 3pt hitch was
1/4 M-BSPT- 9/16 jic M*

You can them add your own hoses and valve in between.

 

[project_X]

My dealer wanted $400 in parts for that.....the fittings cost <$15....i didnt even ask them about adding a valve.. .

 

[project_X]

I plan on adding a bx7376 Remote kit from the BX series to control my top and tilt. I plan on posting my progress when it gets a bit warmer here.

 

[JRobyn]

Hi retired. Welcome to the forum. Your first decision is if you want to go with OEM factory stuff or aftermarket. OEM will cost significantly more. But if you want things like control levers that integrate nicely into existing "slots" in your sheet metal, a hydraulic take-off block designed to exactly fit your tractor, and mounting for your rear connections designed to mount so that they are solid and integrate nicely, factory/OEM is the way to go.

OTOH, you certainly CAN fabricate, or have someone fabricate, all of this yourself, but at the expense of time and possible frustration finding the right parts to fit.

In your shoes, I'd start with two quotes; one from your dealer for all the OEM parts, and one from Brian at FitRite Hydraulics. Brian is the best (is a sponsor on TBN), but also NOT cheap, and not quick (he stays WAY too busy). And THEN you can hear from all the folks that say "just buy all your parts at Surplus Center and build your own".

That should arm you with enough information to make a good decision.

 

[powerscol]

Retiredoldman love the name. The other thing to consider is how many remotes you need. I started out with none out back, now have 2 sets and am working on adding more. I would go OEM and max out what they offer to start. That way you know it will work. Now if your wanting remotes to the front, that is a whole another ball game. I believe Kubota offers that too, but so do others including Brian.

 

[JRobyn]

I agree with Powerscol. My Kubota has slots in the sheetmetal for 3 rear remotes. I really only NEED 2 - one each for top and tilt, but hey, while I'm doing it, an additional stacking valve is only about $250. Specifically, for mine, the Kubota OEM price for a single non-float/detent valve is $233. The same valve with float/detent is $293.

Which brings us to another question you need to decide - do you want to have float/detent or not? Float/detent just means that the hydraulic cylinder attached to that particular valve doesn't get hydraulic pressure either way (extend or retract). So it is free to extend or retract based on whatever forces are applied. I figure that this will be particularly useful for the "top" cylinder for a bushhog to allow it to follow ground contours as needed. For the other 2, I wasn't sure, but for just $60 additional, I got all three with detent.

 

[retiredolman]

Thanks everyone.

 

[tvman]

Hey JRobyn, glad I came across this post. I also have an L4330 HST. and it already has two rear remotes. My question is, did you install your valves yet? If so ,did you have to remove the fender and tire to get some working space?.I will probably have more questions later. Thanks

I agree with Powerscol. My Kubota has slots in the sheetmetal for 3 rear remotes. I really only NEED 2 - one each for top and tilt, but hey, while I'm doing it, an additional stacking valve is only about $250. Specifically, for mine, the Kubota OEM price for a single non-float/detent valve is $233. The same valve with float/detent is $293.

Which brings us to another question you need to decide - do you want to have float/detent or not? Float/detent just means that the hydraulic cylinder attached to that particular valve doesn't get hydraulic pressure either way (extend or retract). So it is free to extend or retract based on whatever forces are applied. I figure that this will be particularly useful for the "top" cylinder for a bushhog to allow it to follow ground contours as needed. For the other 2, I wasn't sure, but for just $60 additional, I got all three with detent.

 

[JRobyn]

I have not yet installed, but everything I have read recommends removing at least the RR tire for working space. So I plan to do that. Hopefully the sheetmetal can stay as-is.

 

[tvman]

Here's what I have found so far. I should explain first that I have a Curtis cab on mine so that sort of complicates things. Removing the tires doesn't help much unless you are going to remove the fenders.

So far,I have removed the seat,the seat mounting platform,the two panels that cover the left and right side control handles,by the way, the PTO cable needs to be disconnected at the bottom of the tractor. Remove the cotter, washer and loosen one of the nuts holding the cable in place. After that you can remove the right side cover.

After the side panels are off you can remove the pan which the seat was bolted to. I keep calling them panels but it's those two covers on both sides of the seat where the control levers go through.

Not trying to overload you with too much info but since my tractor already has two rear remotes, I am trying to add the third without removing the originals.

Hope this all makes sense,cant wait til the stuff shows up.

I have not yet installed, but everything I have read recommends removing at least the RR tire for working space. So I plan to do that. Hopefully the sheetmetal can stay as-is.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

Hey JRobyn, glad I came across this post. I also have an L4330 HST. and it already has two rear remotes. My question is, did you install your valves yet? If so ,did you have to remove the fender and tire to get some working space?.I will probably have more questions later. Thanks

I installed rear remotes on L5030 without removing tire, but no cab. Removed seat, all else was pretty easy.

 

[tvman]

Thanks for chiming in buckeye, I wish someone would post a video of their install.

I installed rear remotes on L5030 without removing tire, but no cab. Removed seat, all else was pretty easy.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

I have posted pics in the past, when I did it. Maybe can search for them.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...draulics-2.html?highlight=rear+remote+install

 

[buckeyefarmer]

I think you will need to remove the two to add the third. They stack together, and orings to install between them.

 

[JRobyn]

If anyone is still following this old thread, I finally had a bit of energy this afternoon (and a very helpful wife), to try to work the valves (3) up in under the fender. By snaking the tubing UP from underneath, behind the 3pt lever, They went right in, no problem. No 3pt lever disturbance at all. Well, except for the shoulder strain from her holding that VERY heavy assembly up in rough position. I had to wiggle the "drain" or return tube around a bit to get it to line up, and we found that the retaining bolt hole for that was totally crammed with dirt-dauber residue. Had to chase the threads with a tap. But basically all went in extremely easily.

Now, I suppose I will spend the next 3 months barking knuckles attempting to put the valve levers back on, with all their tiny washers and cotter pins. And I haven't even looked at how to get holes drilled in the fender for the big outboard valve support bracket. Back tire may still have to come off.

 

[dantran1010]

Hey Buckeye, I have a l5030 and looking for rear remotes. What did you end up buying?