Rear ballast box

   / Rear ballast box #11  
That's too heavy for a 37 or 45hp tractor, maybe even a 60hp one! What made you want it that heavy?
I do like all the attachments and provisions though, Nice work!

This one weighs ~980lbs and is all the ballast my tractor needs.
View attachment 807942

Well, I would agree that it seems like a lot of weight but it’s really not. Remember that it is not just the weight of the ballast but how far back it is ( the center of gravity)from the attachment pins. My 1600lbs ballast block with a center of gravity at 12” from the pins is no different than a 533lbs bush hog that has a center of gravity 36” from the pins.
My New Holland TC45D has a 3pt rating of 3275lbs at the pins and 2330lbs at 24” behind the pins. As previously mentioned, the ballast weighs 1600 lbs with a center of gravity at 12” behind the pins. Well within the tractor’s 3pt capacity. Equally important for me is that it had to be within the capacity of tractor’s loader (NH 16LA) so it can be moved around with pallet forks (and it is with no ballast on the back of the tractor).
So, when you have a 700lbs grapple and a 1000lbs log hanging off the front loader your expensive front axle will be glad you loaded up the 3pt with enough ballast to remove that load on the front axle and keep things from breaking.
 
   / Rear ballast box #12  
I made mine using concrete with attachments to carry my chainsaws and other tools. It was sized to weigh 1600 lbs.
I think you win the ballast wars. That looks so good, I feel like making one and getting rid of my box of sand.

What are those things on the back?

I don't have any idea how much weight I need for a Kubota L3710. When I got my box, I filled it with sand and figured it would have to work.
 
   / Rear ballast box #13  
I think you win the ballast wars. That looks so good, I feel like making one and getting rid of my box of sand.

What are those things on the back?

I don't have any idea how much weight I need for a Kubota L3710. When I got my box, I filled it with sand and figured it would have to work.

They are for holding chainsaws.

IMG_0260.JPG


Here is the thread I did on it.

 
   / Rear ballast box #14  
Adding to what others have already said:

  1. Steel weighs more than concrete, so if you want the absolutely smallest footprint, you know which way to go.
  2. A tool carrier is priceless. Like inpo44, mine has tubes for carrying rakes and shovels, which I use constantly. I also have a tray on top for carrying chains, saws, gloves, other stuff.
  3. Adjustable weight is ideal. I have a fixed 750 lb. of concrete in a steel box, but bars mounted above and aft to carry an additional 17 suitcase weights. Those suitcases can be the 42 or 70 lb. variety, meaning I can vary the weight of my box from 750 lb. all the way up to 2000 lb., although I might start to worry about the welds on the lower link pins at the top of that range. I usually use it between 750 and 1500 lb., for my needs.
  4. A hitch receiver on the back of your box is mandatory, IMO. You don't want to have to ditch the ballast to pull a trailer, in fact that's often when it's most useful. This has the added advantage of shifting your hitch farther aft of your rear axle, which provides better maneuverability when backing trailers, especially steerable-axle farm wagons. I just welded a pair of 1" x 1/2" steel bars to the back of mine and tapped 1/2" UNF, to bolt on a surface-mount hitch receiver, quickly removable when I want it out of my way.
IMG_1827.JPGIMG_2076.JPG IMG_6339.JPG
 
Last edited:
   / Rear ballast box #15  
Well, I would agree that it seems like a lot of weight but it’s really not. Remember that it is not just the weight of the ballast but how far back it is ( the center of gravity)from the attachment pins. My 1600lbs ballast block with a center of gravity at 12” from the pins is no different than a 533lbs bush hog that has a center of gravity 36” from the pins.
My New Holland TC45D has a 3pt rating of 3275lbs at the pins and 2330lbs at 24” behind the pins. As previously mentioned, the ballast weighs 1600 lbs with a center of gravity at 12” behind the pins. Well within the tractor’s 3pt capacity. Equally important for me is that it had to be within the capacity of tractor’s loader (NH 16LA) so it can be moved around with pallet forks (and it is with no ballast on the back of the tractor).
So, when you have a 700lbs grapple and a 1000lbs log hanging off the front loader your expensive front axle will be glad you loaded up the 3pt with enough ballast to remove that load on the front axle and keep things from breaking.
Understood, but I'm thinking about what is the maximum loader lift capability (of the New Holland TC45D or the Workmaster 37, I don't know what a TN60DA is!) and having enough weight to counter it and keep the rear wheels planted but not carrying excess weight needlessly.
My MT240 has about 2150 lbs loader lift capacity and even with the heaviest loads it would lift (pallet fork under concrete slab barely lifting it off the ground, grapple of logs/etc) the 1000lbs of weight on the 3pt was always plenty. I could if needed add substantial weight using the receiver tube and a weight bar but never needed to.
 
   / Rear ballast box #16  
Do remember that the loader is lifting a weight a good bit farther from your front axle, than the ballast box typically extends from the rear axle. It's a complex problem, but a good starting point is to treat it like a torque arm, multiply the weight x extension from nearest axle, and aim to get the lb·ft of your ballast at least close to that of what you're putting on the loader + the loader and implement itself.
 
   / Rear ballast box #17  
Look around for a good box blade and some old suitcase weights. I run a 6 ft box blade with 4 weights hung on tue inside and it works fine I don’t have $200 in it but it was all auction finds
 
   / Rear ballast box #18  
I used a 55 gallon drum, Set it away from your tractor will give you more counter balance to the FEL. Friend had several bags of harden concrete bags that he wanted to get rid of. Broke them up and dumped them in... Old photo but I've since removed the pipes (or rain collectors as I called them and filled it to the top and placed a Manhole cover on top of it. Fit like a glove.

About 800 to 900 pounds, Manhole cover felt like 100 by itself!!
 

Attachments

  • weight box pulverizer.jpg
    weight box pulverizer.jpg
    763.1 KB · Views: 56
Last edited:
   / Rear ballast box #19  
Here's mine (Post 208) on a 21 page thread:


 
   / Rear ballast box #20  
I'd like to make a ballast box for my Kubota BX2350, and have a place on top for a chainsaw box. Any suggestions for how much the ballast should weigh? Thinking of a concrete ballast box that will hook to my quick-hitch.
 
 
 
Top