Hey guys. I have a 1900. Great little tractor, and I love it. It's a typical old, tired, but in descent shape. Question is, can I put new piston rings in it, without doing anything to the cylinders? And if I do, would it cause any problems? I found ring sets on eBay for about 50 bucks per piston, and was thinking about doing a "ring job" on it. Any comments or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Replacement rings should generally be the same types as the original.
Ring sizes can be confusing because ring thickness and width may change from one model year to the next.Oversize rings and pistons of the corresponding size will obviously be needed if the cylinders need to be bored or honed to oversize.
Some shops "plateau" the cylinders after honing. This can be done various ways, but one way to do this yourself is to give each cylinder a few strokes with a flexible brush-type "Flex-Hone" in a drill. This helps remove surface debris and knocks the sharp peaks off the ridges left in the bores by honing.
Cylinders must always be cleaned before new rings and pistons are installed. This means scrubbing the bores with warm soapy water and a brush to remove all traces of honing residue and metal.
Always use a ring expander to install new rings on pistons, and a ring compressor to install the piston assemblies in the block. Cylinder walls must also be lubed to protect the rings and pistons against scuffing when the engine is first started.
Hope this helps!
Ring sizes can be confusing because ring thickness and width may change from one model year to the next.Oversize rings and pistons of the corresponding size will obviously be needed if the cylinders need to be bored or honed to oversize.
Some shops "plateau" the cylinders after honing. This can be done various ways, but one way to do this yourself is to give each cylinder a few strokes with a flexible brush-type "Flex-Hone" in a drill. This helps remove surface debris and knocks the sharp peaks off the ridges left in the bores by honing.
Cylinders must always be cleaned before new rings and pistons are installed. This means scrubbing the bores with warm soapy water and a brush to remove all traces of honing residue and metal.
Always use a ring expander to install new rings on pistons, and a ring compressor to install the piston assemblies in the block. Cylinder walls must also be lubed to protect the rings and pistons against scuffing when the engine is first started.
Hope this helps!
whodat526
Veteran Member
i would buy all nh parts
Hooked_on_HP
Veteran Member
Why are you wanting to just rering it? IMHO if you are not going to do it right you are just wasting money. New rings won't seal out of round worn cylinders
Bill
Bill
RoyJackson
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Yep!!!
Once you open it up...might as well go all the way.
BTW, measure the width of the ring grooves (on the pistons) as well as the cylinder diameters...
RickB
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Might have something to do with the $2300 in parts it takes to "do it right". 0.020" under rods & mains, 0.040" over pistons & rings, full gasket kit, piston pins & bushings, thrust bearings. Plus whatever my customer paid the machine shop to turn the crank and bore the block. I didn't have the nerve to ask him what shape his valves & head were in. Made a nice sale for the parts dept, though.
I'd walk away from a 1900 before I put that kind of money in the engine.
WilliamBos
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RickB said:
How is parts availability on those?? May be worth it to him, since he said he loves it.
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RickB
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Frankly I was surprised that all that stuff was in stock in either Mountville, PA or Indianapolis, IN, my two closest depots. Had it all in 3 days. I had checked availability a couple times while the machine work was being done to make sure we could get the small bearings & big pistons & ring sets. No point in turning a crank further than what bearings are available to fit, regardless of what the parts catalog says.
Frigging .040 piston & ring sets were obscene. Almost $400 per hole IIRC.
BTW, this was about 3 weeks ago.
