Raytree drum mulcher

   / Raytree drum mulcher #21  
I'm based in the UK & was scanning for more info on the raytree drum mulcher & came across this thred, I bit the bullet & bought one with some apprehension however since buying it I did a quick strip down of the covers & tbh I am quite impressed with the engineering on this thing. I am waiting for the hydrolic adaptors which are metric to marry them to my bsp quick connectors then I can test it but on first inspection im impressed not at all disappointed as I half expected I would be, the bearings look like really heavy duty and good quality the welding mostly is top notch (although the welding on the drum is not as crisp as the welding on the body. Evan the pully's are or seem to be well engineered & the drivebelt also looks like it's been made with heavy duty use in mind my biggest surprise was the scale of each component including the rexroth piston motor. I had seen the pics of all the bits I've referred to but despite seeing the pictures I was pleasantly surprised by how robust the whole thing seems to be. I may of corse have a different view when I fit it on my jcb 85z excavator & put it through its paces but it looks on first inspection like a decent bit of kit with decent components. I bought it new but didn't get the spares pack that normally come with them which would have been a great thing to have had but aside from that so far so good. I may do a YouTube video on my findings on it I think on the 8.5 ton digger it's heavy but easily manageable on that size machine. The post about the grease nipple needing an extension is totally valid & raytree really should amend the design to incorporate that as standard as most of the other things on the mulcher seem well put together despite the negative connotations hinted at by its Chinese origins.
 

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   / Raytree drum mulcher #22  
Let me know how the other teeth work out for you. Mine also had the 2 grease fittings on each end of the drum outside and accessible, not sure why they didn't do the same with the third on the top bearing, but it's much better now since I relocated it by adding a remote grease hose.
Could you put a pic up to see how you did the grease nipple extender out of curiosity please?
 
   / Raytree drum mulcher #23  
Ive now managed to hook the raytree REDM32 onto my excavator & ran it for a full day. It did a good job of dealing with a lot of overgrown & out of control loreal maybe 25 foot tall most of which were around 4 or 5 inches thick some much thicker. It was quiet & well balanced. I was pleasantly surprised how well it got the job done. I can't know about how reliable it will be but so far im really pleased with it. Ive seen guys on youtube using one on smaller excavators but tbh I personally wouldn't want to use one on anything less than a 5 ton machine not only would they be limited in reach but the weight of the mulcher is enough to get yourself in trouble paticularly when working on slopes or over the tracks but evan with a 5 tonner you would do well to go slowly if your inexperienced at working downhill with a heavy implement. I took a quick video of it in use but it was too large to post on this forum so I put it on my Facebook if anyone's interested in seeing it in action if it helps. Video
 

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   / Raytree drum mulcher #24  
Well I went and picked one up today, hooked it up and greased everything, there is only one fitting that is a little aggravating to get to, it runs smoothly with no vibration but only time will tell if it holds up, it has some big shoes to fill to outdo my forestry mower, I suspect it will still be my go to.View attachment 3157662
Lineman I have one of these too. Have not had any luck with raytree replying to my emails for parts or operating manual. I have been using mine for a couple months now, and it does a decent job. I have been doing a lot of web browsing and have run across many threads on the subject of tuning your mulcher to your specific machine. I decided to do this on mine and that was the reason I reached out to the manufacture. I have my mulcher on a 2016 Cat 259D skid steer. I am probably in the range of 20 gpm. Just curious, have you seen what your drum speed is when you are mulching ?
 
   / Raytree drum mulcher
  • Thread Starter
#25  
Lineman I have one of these too. Have not had any luck with raytree replying to my emails for parts or operating manual. I have been using mine for a couple months now, and it does a decent job. I have been doing a lot of web browsing and have run across many threads on the subject of tuning your mulcher to your specific machine. I decided to do this on mine and that was the reason I reached out to the manufacture. I have my mulcher on a 2016 Cat 259D skid steer. I am probably in the range of 20 gpm. Just curious, have you seen what your drum speed is when you are mulching ?
Sorry, I have no idea, I just hooked it up and have run it on low flow on my Kubota SVL 75-2 which is a little over 17 GPM . Not real sure why they haven't responded to you as they have always responded to me in a timely manner. What e-mail address are you sending your questions to?
 
   / Raytree drum mulcher #26  
Lineman I have one of these too. Have not had any luck with raytree replying to my emails for parts or operating manual. I have been using mine for a couple months now, and it does a decent job. I have been doing a lot of web browsing and have run across many threads on the subject of tuning your mulcher to your specific machine. I decided to do this on mine and that was the reason I reached out to the manufacture. I have my mulcher on a 2016 Cat 259D skid steer. I am probably in the range of 20 gpm. Just curious, have you seen what your drum speed is when you are mulching ?
I believe the machines that are being tuned have variable displacement hydraulic motors on them. I think your unit has a fixed displacement motor on it so only adjustment is if you can vary the flow output on your skid steer without creating excessive heat and energy loss.
 
   / Raytree drum mulcher #27  
Sorry, I have no idea, I just hooked it up and have run it on low flow on my Kubota SVL 75-2 which is a little over 17 GPM . Not real sure why they haven't responded to you as they have always responded to me in a timely manner. What e-mail address are you sending your questions to?
I used the email on the mulcher. The email address I used was info@raymondy.com. I have probably put around 20-30 hrs on this little mulcher. It does do a pretty decent job, but on bigger trees I have to make several passes on them to get em chewed up. I usually end up leaving the bottom 15 ft. and hauling them to brush piles with my grapple. For the past couple of weeks I have been reading a lot of forum treads and manufacture recommendations as to flows and drum speed on low flow and high flow, and the main consensus is that the drum speed to be effective is somewhere in the range of 2000-2400 rpm's. Since I was leaving a lot of unmulched material on the ground I decided to look into tuning my unit. The main difference between the standard flows and the high flows were mainly recovery time, and the high flow units are indeed more efficient because of the increased flow but both should be able to function within reason. For this reason I started seeing what my unit was actually doing. I found out that my mulcher head was not within spec. My drive motor was only doing 1650 rpm's, it was a 5-1/2" cogged pulley. My drum pulley is a 7-1/2" cogged pulley. That shaft was turning 1170 rpm's. I thought WOW ! I remembered seeing a tuning video from seppi mulchers talking about standard flows needing to have the pulley's changed out. I looked at the shaft sizes and measured them, ( driven-drive ) and they are the same. I swapped pulley's Friday. I now have a drum speed of 2070 rpm's. This thing is Jennin now ! I am striking out in the dark on this move, but I have had no contact from raytree on how to, or what they recommend to do on tuning. Soon as I get some pic's to download I will.
 
   / Raytree drum mulcher #28  
I believe the machines that are being tuned have variable displacement hydraulic motors on them. I think your unit has a fixed displacement motor on it so only adjustment is if you can vary the flow output on your skid steer without creating excessive heat and energy loss.
On the raytree mulcher, there is a square collection block in behind the green plate that is under the hyd. pressure gauge. There is some sort of adjusting screw under the left hand side of the block assembly. I adjusted it out about 3 turns and absolutely nothing happened. This was before I changed my pulley's out.
 
   / Raytree drum mulcher #29  
Here is my Cat Skid Steer. The pic of the pulley's is how they are set up now. It was originally reversed.
 

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   / Raytree drum mulcher
  • Thread Starter
#30  
I used the email on the mulcher. The email address I used was info@raymondy.com. I have probably put around 20-30 hrs on this little mulcher. It does do a pretty decent job, but on bigger trees I have to make several passes on them to get em chewed up. I usually end up leaving the bottom 15 ft. and hauling them to brush piles with my grapple. For the past couple of weeks I have been reading a lot of forum treads and manufacture recommendations as to flows and drum speed on low flow and high flow, and the main consensus is that the drum speed to be effective is somewhere in the range of 2000-2400 rpm's. Since I was leaving a lot of unmulched material on the ground I decided to look into tuning my unit. The main difference between the standard flows and the high flows were mainly recovery time, and the high flow units are indeed more efficient because of the increased flow but both should be able to function within reason. For this reason I started seeing what my unit was actually doing. I found out that my mulcher head was not within spec. My drive motor was only doing 1650 rpm's, it was a 5-1/2" cogged pulley. My drum pulley is a 7-1/2" cogged pulley. That shaft was turning 1170 rpm's. I thought WOW ! I remembered seeing a tuning video from seppi mulchers talking about standard flows needing to have the pulley's changed out. I looked at the shaft sizes and measured them, ( driven-drive ) and they are the same. I swapped pulley's Friday. I now have a drum speed of 2070 rpm's. This thing is Jennin now ! I am striking out in the dark on this move, but I have had no contact from raytree on how to, or what they recommend to do on tuning. Soon as I get some pic's to download I will.
Alright try this email address as it is the one that I have gotten all my responses from. service@raymondy.com
Now you got me wanting to swap the pulleys on mine to see what happens. 😁
 
   / Raytree drum mulcher #31  
Alright, I will try that email. Before you do that, see what your setup is actually doing. Digital tach from Harbor Freight or Northern or online... Keep me informed.
 
   / Raytree drum mulcher #32  
I think the only option with a lower flow or pressure machine behind a rotary hydraulic tool is to rely on inertia. Reversing the 2 sheaves makes perfect sense. It's the waiting for recovery that's difficult. 👍
 
   / Raytree drum mulcher
  • Thread Starter
#33  
According to my owners manual you are just under max rpms which is 2100.
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   / Raytree drum mulcher
  • Thread Starter
#35  
Where did you get the manual ? All mine came with was the plastic box with some replacement parts, 4 cutters, bolts, another belt, etc...
I emailed them at the email address that I gave you in an earlier post and they sent it to me. I don't know why, but none of them seem to come with the owners manual, but they sent me a PDF of the owners manual right away when I asked for it.
 
   / Raytree drum mulcher
  • Thread Starter
#37  
Oh I forgot to mention, when I did my checks on my RPM's I was running my machine @ 2500 rpm's
So out of curiosity how much trouble is it to swap the pulley's, I'm guessing it's pretty simple/straight forward.
 
   / Raytree drum mulcher #38  
So out of curiosity how much trouble is it to swap the pulley's, I'm guessing it's pretty simple/straight forward.

So out of curiosity how much trouble is it to swap the pulley's, I'm guessing it's pretty simple/straight forward.
Well, I guess so, it took me about 2 hrs. to do a 30 min. job. I went slow cause I was guessing how the china man who built this would have put it together. I really wish I had of made a video of doing the job. I haven't ruled that out yet, but I can tell you how I done it. But first I would really like to know what kind of rpm's the little bota is turning your drum when your at operating rpm's. I am running my Cat @ 2500 rpm's.
 
   / Raytree drum mulcher
  • Thread Starter
#39  
Well, I guess so, it took me about 2 hrs. to do a 30 min. job. I went slow cause I was guessing how the china man who built this would have put it together. I really wish I had of made a video of doing the job. I haven't ruled that out yet, but I can tell you how I done it. But first I would really like to know what kind of rpm's the little bota is turning your drum when your at operating rpm's. I am running my Cat @ 2500 rpm's.
Well for starters I have to buy an RPM tach to see what it is, but I should be able to figure out how to swap the pulley's , I just need to take the cover off and look it over.
 
   / Raytree drum mulcher #40  
Well, I guess so, it took me about 2 hrs. to do a 30 min. job. I went slow cause I was guessing how the china man who built this would have put it together. I really wish I had of made a video of doing the job. I haven't ruled that out yet, but I can tell you how I done it. But first I would really like to know what kind of rpm's the little bota is turning your drum when your at operating rpm's. I am running my Cat @ 2500 rpm's.
What I did :
1. Remove cover and I took a leaf blower and cleaned out all of the dirt and debris.
2. Record the tension bolt for correct belt tension on reassembly. I used a set of what I call spreaders. It is like a compass you use to make circles. I also took a perma marker and drew a line down the middle of the threads on the tensioner bolt and backed it off 3 turns, or loose enough to take the belt off. Note how many turns you make you'll need it for reassembly.
3. Before you loosen the 4 bolts that are holding the drive check the gap between the frame and the edge of the motor. Mine was .037. I used a set of feller gauges to do this, and used them to support the motor during reassembly. I was able to do this because I layed the mulcher down horizontally to do the job. ( I guess that should have been step 1 but I am going off memory )
4. The 4 nuts you will be looking at will take a 15/16 socket. If you don't have an impact wrench you may ought to get one or have a helper close by to hold backup for you on the large allen head bolts on the inside of the mulcher. Once you have those loose take the belt off. I made sure that I put my belt back on the same way I removed it so it would be turning in the same direction. Cogged belts are picky about how they are tensioned and lined up so I tried to put things back the same way I found them. With the exception of the pulleys.
5. Raytree uses a 2 part coupling design. It is captured to the shaft with a tapper, and a keyway. You will see 4 allen head bolts. I think they were 8mm but I cant recall. Anyway, you will also see 2 threaded holes. These are to push the tappers apart from each other. I removed 2 bolts completely to use to push with, and I loosened the other 2 and left about 2 threads holding the 2 halves of the coupling together. You will also see a bolt in the center of the shafts with a big round thick washer. You can remove these. The bolts and washers will allow you to get back to the proper placement of the hub assembly later. There is a split in the hub that opens up the outer hub so it will slide off the shaft once the hubs are separated. You want to be careful here though, just use enough spread with a wedge or flat head screwdriver to get the hub to move, also, insert the screwdriver as far out as possible so on reassembly it doesn't get in the way of the flat washer to line up the couplings. These things will break in half, and then you will be trying to find a new one ! When separating the coupling hubs go slow, 1/4 turn or less on each one of the 2 pushing bolts you are using to separate the coupling hubs. You'll feel it when they separate, they are pretty tight. The hub should slide off easily.
6. Now that you have both pulley's off, change there locations ( drive on driven, driven on drive ). What I done here is slid the pulley's on till they liked about a 1/4 of an inch going completely onto the shaft. Then I let the bolt and washer ease them on the rest of the way onto the shaft. The washer acts as a stop to align the inner part of the hub to the exact placement on the shafts. I didn't tighten the bolt in the center to tight, but I didn't want it to move either. I left the locking washer off during this process.
7. Remove the 2 separating bolts used to push with and insert them back in the holes they came out of, see why we left the other 2 bolts in now, no lining up issues. Remove the wedges if you haven't already done so. Start tightening the bolts as so they will be letting the tapper attach to the shaft. You will want to do this in an even manner, criss cross method. Do this to both pulleys.
8. Replace the belt.
9. Raise hyd. motor enough as to let the proper spacing to ride along the slotted hole in the frame and adjust your bolt tension back to where it was when you started, and tighten the hold down bolts. You will have to have an extension to do this cause the pulley you just put on this shaft is nearly in the way.
10. Go get a cold beer... Good Luck
 
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