Ratcheting tie downs BROKE in transit!

[ducati996]

I would love to see some pictures of some setups using the chains and Binders - 2 points and four points with clevis's and without. Do some of you guys use the side railing slot on the trailer instead of the D-rings? What do you use to protect the paint when using chains?

Thanks

Ducati

 

[Soundguy]

Any chains that touch my 'trailer queen' tractors is passed thru a burlap sleave first... chains on the trailer? i don't care..

Soundguy

 

[fjblair]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( av8r, I took his advice and ordered what he told me. He told me to spend the extra money and go with the US made grade 80 chain with the factory welded on hooks and the higher quality US made 9,200 pound rated ratcheting load binders. )</font>

where can someone order this stuff if you can't buy it locally?

FB

 

[Dargo]

Here is where I bought my stuff AW Direct . They have good service and reasonable prices. They sell to people who depend on their equipment. Nothing against Rural King, TSC, or Harbor Fright, but you won't ever find a professional wrecker service or a professional over the road trucker who is responsible for his load buying any "made in China" chain or binders there.

You will pay more for the higher quality made in U.S. chain and binders, but it is relative. If you feel that your tractor isn't worth a hundred bucks or so, and you are not worried about potentially killing another innocent driver, save a couple of bucks and buy the cheap stuff. Hey, it's "rated" for the same strength. However, I challange you to find a single machine shop, crane rigging etc. that uses anything but U.S., Canada, or Japanese made chain and hooks for any overhead use.

As I said, I got my one and only "warning". I figure if I can't afford a few dollars extra to buy quality securing equipment, I can't afford to operate my tractor, or I sure don't think my tractor is worth going back to pick up if if falls off. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif Good luck. Buying quality isn't going to cost you much more than going cheap.

 

[Dargo]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( What do you use to protect the paint when using chains?)</font>

This is what is wrapped around my axle Super strength loop and the specific "D" link is used to attach that sling to my grade 70 chain and load binder. Those slings will not stretch any at all, and have a stronger strength rating than the actual chain. As long as you don't put it over a sharp edge, and use the "D" link there you attach it to chain, you will not break it. You can get an 8' sling with a 16,800 pound capacity for under $35 bucks. I use one on each side of my rear axle. I've pulled hard on the binder, and those slings just do not stretch. I was worried that the sling would stretch and my load would get loose. Not!

Here are the slings I used Slings , and here are the "D" links Strap shackle to chain . Good luck and be safe!

 

[escavader]

DUCATI
Go to a local fire dept and see if they got some old fire hose to run the chains through.Works great last foreever,easy on paint
ALAN

 

[LBrown59]

Anybody else use the 2" wide ratcheting tie downs? I've gotten into the habit of using two of the tie downs on the front of my tractor and two on the rear, and not using chains anymore. I figured since the tie downs said that they had a 10,000 pound capacity that two of them on each end of my tractor would be sufficient. Wrong!!!

While running about 50 mph up a 2 lane highway yesterday I had both front straps break after going over a dip in the road. When they snapped, one of them caught the electric brake plug and also broke it. The http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=1472117way I knew that the straps broke was my tractor began to exit off of the rear of the trailer. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Now I also ask, have you ever been towing a load and have it become extremely tail heavy? Once the tractor moved to the rear on the trailer, the trailer immediately slung around my 1 ton 4X4 dually diesel Dodge like it was a toy! There are heavy black marks that go within 6" of being off of the left side of the highway (wrong lane) and then within 12" of going off of the right side of the highway. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif I literally was all over the road and almost completely sideways. Without trailer brakes, I absolutely had all I could handle and then some trying to get the whole shooting match stopped with the rubber side down!

After what seemed like an eternity, I luckily managed to get the truck and trailer stopped. I have no idea how I didn't lose the tractor off of the trailer and how I kept it out of the ditches on both sides of the highway. I was also extremely lucky that there was no oncoming traffic because I was all over the highway. I still can't believe how much the trailer flung an 8500 pound truck all over the road!

I still can't believe that the only actual damage I had (besides two broken tie down straps - which I promptly threw away) was a flat right rear trailer tire from sliding sideways with a heavy load. The trailer didn't get into my truck, the tractor stayed on the trailer, and the trailer didn't flip.

Anyway, I'm getting a larger trailer that will accomodate my tractor better and I'll never use straps to hold my tractor on a trailer again!!! Both straps broke in the middle. Not at the hook, and not at the ratchet. There was nothing rubbing against the straps where they broke. They just flat snapped. I'm using nothing but chains again!

I only mention this incident to hopefully prevent someone else from having a disaster happen because of (supposedly) strong tie down straps break. I consider myself extremely fortunate and I don't expect to have another "warning" about not using chains to tie my tractor down on my trailer. If you use straps, please reconsider and use chains. Before yesterday I would have thought you were nuts if you told me that my tractor could snap two straps and come off of the trailer when I'm just driving down the highway. I learned my lesson and really got off easy for my ignorance. Sorry to preach, but that could have been a complete disaster yesterday and I could have very easily have not only destroyed my tractor, but there is no way I could have presented my trailer from smashing into oncoming traffic on the highway.

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[lawn_king]

I wouldn't move my machine across town without chains & binders, period!!

 

[sandman2234]

I think too many of us move loaded trailers without trailer brakes... and sometimes it catches up with us. Took that wild ride myself back in 1981 with a brand new p/u and my wife's cousin in the truck. He hasn't ridden with me since.
David from jax

 

[patrick_g]

There is a place for those ratchet straps, just probably not securing tractors to trailers to drive in traffic. I have a supply of the wide HD rachet strap type tie downs. I have them in two essential styles. One is much heavier than the other (less robust style is from HF) and I have them in different strengths/widths. They can be more convenient that chains BUT... When it comes to securing my tractor to the trailer for highway use I am definitely in agreement with lawn_king. USE CHAINS

CHAINS, Grade 70 DOT approved chains, heavier than needed and secured with boomers (AKA load binders.) I attach the hooks to the trailer such that they pass through the stake pockets and then hang on the pocket so gravity assists in keeping them in place should somehow a chain get loose.

I have both over center locking binders and the ratchet type. When I use the over center toggle type binders I wire the handle closed so if any slack develops the binder DOES NOT OPEN UP and make a lot more slack.

Before I get on the highway I always test the brakes and swerve a little left and right and then before going on the highway I stop, get out, walk back, and check to see if any slack has developed that needs to be removed. While driving I frequently look back at the chains via the rear view mirror to see if they are staying tight.

It is always possible that I could be in an accident, have a blow out, or some other catastrophic event but the way I chain my tractor to the trailer it is likely that when everything comes to a stop the tractor will be attached to the trailer right side up on its side or upside down but still attached. That will be a good thing as it shows due diligence and makes it hard for some lawyer to claim my practice is faulty and the load shifted causing the accident not say his client who was fixing her makeup in the mirror while talking on the cell phone and eating a burger (I wanted to make a hot coffee crack but it might not be sufficiently PC.)

Pat

 

[LBrown59]

He hasn't ridden with me since.
David from jax

Can you blame him?

 

[sandman2234]

HECK NO, I DON'T BLAME HIM!!!


But on the other hand, I did learn from my mistakes, and if I get into a situation where I don't have everything I need to tie a load down, or if I have to haul a heavier trailer than I think and should require trailer brakes, but doesn't, I make some serious modifications to my driving habits. Not that the O/P did or didn't, I don't know, but I do make some serious modifications and usually only to a point that the problem can be corrected.
Until the accident with the train last year, I had just over 2.4 million accident free miles in a tractor trailer, so I guess somebody must be watching out for me. That doesn't include any that didn't get logged or paid for, or in my personal vehicles, which could easily have been another 10-15%.
Hopefully I won't have any more accidents!
David from jax

 

[shane]

I think too many of us move loaded trailers without trailer brakes... and sometimes it catches up with us. Took that wild ride myself back in 1981 with a brand new p/u and my wife's cousin in the truck. He hasn't ridden with me since.
David from jax

So that's how you get rid of pesky relatives. I got a brother-in-law I'm going to try this on.

 

[Dargo]

Hello.

I'm the fool who originally thought that 4 ratcheting two inch straps that say 10,000 pounds on them would hold my tractor on my trailer. Obviously I was wrong. I promise that I've positively never hauled any of my tractors with anything less than 4 grade 70 3/8" made in the U.S. chain with equal rated binders. I also promptly bought a trailer with more than twice the capacity as to not only be safer on load ratings but to also try to prevent trailer flexing which, in review, seems to be what broke my straps in that first post. The dip in the highway allowed my trailer to flex out of being flat. When the trailer flexed back the forces were enough to snap the strap tie downs.

I erroneously thought that the four "heavy duty" straps would be sufficient. I was as hard headed as some people here still are about thinking they would be safe. Fortunately for me I got off relatively easy for my poor judgment. The entire reason for the post in the first place was to try to prevent someone from learning the same lesson the hard way and, possibly, having far worse results while learning that lesson. I personally am more comfortable with the higher quality control used in the manufacture of chain in the U.S. versus the same product made in China. However, I am convinced that even Chinese made grade 70 chain is far superior to using straps to secure a tractor to a trailer. Be safe out there.

 

[FredH]

At least you were using some sort of tie down to begin with . Yesterday , Better half and myself loaded up the pick-up with garbage for a trip to the transfer station . Across the street from the stop sign were I turn right , then another right into transfer station . Sits this SUV / Small Pick-up ( had a canopy on it maybe , was not really looking at the tow rig but rather what he was or I should say HAD been towing ) . Anyway , rig is sitting there with what looks to be a double axle boat trailer that has a serious problem between first axle and hitch . It is bowed / bent so bad that the second axle is completely off the ground . What the ??? . Then I see 2 guys in the ditch on the other side trying to muscle what appears to be at least a 400 or more gallon green round water tank up out of the ditch back to the trailer .

I was laughing my arse off as we pulled into the transfer station telling my wife exactly what I thought happened . No tie downs ( or very inadequate ones ) , loaded tank just sitting on trailer , Hit brakes to hard before trying to make right turn , tank slides forward onto tongue in front of front axle bending the tar out of the trailer then rolled over the side of trailer into ditch . All this equaled 1 badly bent boat trailer and one now empty water tank .
Seen him before we entered the transfer station , trying to jump up and down on back of trailer to try and bend it back down !

Since it is election time , that is my nomination for the Darwin award .

Fred H.

 

[patrick_g]

I don't want to dissuade anyone from buying quality US made safety equipment but consider this... Binders typically will fit at least two sizes of chain. If you buy binders that can fit your chain but are sized for the next larger chain you will get quite an increase in robustness and have considerably lowered your risk. Lower quality binders in an oversize configuration are significantly safer than the "right size" binders of similar quality.

I do get a few laughs and comments regarding the size and length of my chains (larger size than needed, longer than needed, and grade 70 DOT approved. I DO NOT subscribe to the "good ole boy" school of tie down.

The fire hose suggestion for anti-abrasion is very good if available. Ship chandlers (and other boating supply outlets) sell anti chafe gear for dock lines in various materials including plastic, canvas, leather, and such.

A length of rubber hose works pretty good too, especially if you can take the hook off the end. If you can remove the hook then do so, slip the length(s) of hose(s) over the chain and replace the hook. You can pierce the hose at both ends to accept small stuff (small diameter line to use to secure the hose in place along the chain where it is needed.) Wire works to secure the anti chafe gear but the cordage lasts through many reuses.

If the hooks don't come off easily you can cut a rubber hose (I have used 1 1/2 inch clear plastic hose) in a spiral manner (fairly wide not a thin strip) which can be wrapped around the chain where you want it and secured with tape, wire, or small cords. You can use duct tape around the chain in the "right spot" but it deteriorates and if the right spot changes a bit you can't slide it to where it is actually needed.

A quick anti chafe set up is to use an old rag, shirt, leg cut from worn out jeans or similar wrapped around the chain where needed and secured with cord or tape.

Hope this nautical infusion helps.

Pat

 

[schmism]

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huh?

i still dont understand why we dig up 3 year old posts, then post that?!?!

 

[Dargo]

huh?

i still dont understand why we dig up 3 year old posts, then post that?!?!

Pole Barn with no permit - Page 8 - TractorByNet.com

 

[gemini5362]

Hello.

I personally am more comfortable with the higher quality control used in the manufacture of chain in the U.S. versus the same product made in China. However, I am convinced that even Chinese made grade 70 chain is far superior to using straps to secure a tractor to a trailer. Be safe out there.

Ok maybe it is a simple question but how do you know you are getting US made chain versus chinese made chain ?

 

[Dargo]

Ok maybe it is a simple question but how do you know you are getting US made chain versus chinese made chain ?

U.S. chain has a more metallic taste when compared to the Chinese chain that sort of tastes like old battle ships with a bit of salt, grease and even glass mixed in.

Actually, on one chain I know it has "G70" on some links and has "USA" on the back side of those links. But, still, I can't say for sure the chain wasn't made in China saying it was made in the U.S. At that point I just have to take the word of the people selling the chain.