Radiator drain won't drain

[Foothill Rancher]

Started to change coolant on my 97 Dodge today, opened the drain and nothing came out, thought it may have rust or some other gunk blocking it but it looks pretty clean.
What I don't remember is if it screws out more than a quarter turn, it sure wouldn't turn anymore and felt like it was suppose to stop there.
Anyone out there that has a Dodge or that has this problem?
This truck has been trouble free but in the last two weeks everything is going bad on it.

 

[TedLaRue]

I don't own a Dodge, but on every radiator I've ever messed with you had to turn that "T" valve/stop a lot more than 1/4 of a turn to get full flow. I'd think 1/4 of a turn might get you a slow drip at most.

Is the valve metal or plastic?

If the valve is metal, the threads may be gummed up with corrosion preventing you from turning it any further. If so, try opening it until it stops, then try to force it a little bit more, maybe using some channel lock pliers, then turn it back a little, then try again, to gradually loosen it and get it open. Be careful; if you twist too hard with pliers, you might break the "T" off.

Alternatively, you should be able to drain the fluid sufficiently by removing the lower radiator hose. Be sure you have your tub or bucket handy. That's not as easy or as clean as using the valve, but may be quicker than messing around with a crapped up valve.

If you really want to get the valve working, you might want to remove the radiator so you can get it out in the open where you can see what's going on. It's not too hard to remove a radiator, especially if you're going to drain the coolant anyhow.

 

[Foothill Rancher]

The valve is metal but it's not like the old one's I've always worked with, they were a "T" as you say and the fluid came out straight in the middle of the wing. This one is like knob on a volt meter(best thing I could think of) and has the drain pointing down, looks like you could hook a small tube to drain.
I was thinking of pulling the lower hose, I don't want to replace the radiator due to a drain valve so it may have to be the way I change the fluid every couple of years.
The valve sure seems to have a stop at that quarter turn, but I agree with you and think it should spin alot more.

 

[TedLaRue]

Randy,

Obviously you've had more experience than I credited you with. I've seen the kind of valve you're describing, but they were plastic. Whatever kind of valve it is, 1/4 turn to open it doesn't seem right to me.

Maybe some Dodge owner will chime in with some good advice.

This truck has been trouble free but in the last two weeks everything is going bad on it.

I know the feeling. I'm still running an '84 Ford F150. You fix everything and it's ok for a few months. Then the cycle repeats. Right?

 

[TedLaRue]

And by the way, you probably didn't mean to post this under the "Trailers & Transportation" forum, which might be limiting the replies you get.

 

[Foothill Rancher]

You are certainly right, I did post in the wrong one, now, not only can't I change my coolant, but I can't find the way to move this thread.
Not been a good day.

 

[RickB]

Can't help. My trailer is air cooled.

 

[firedog]

If my memory serves me right, the valve doesn't turn very much. It's not like to ones you're used to. 1/4 turn sounds about right.

If I get a chance later today I'll go out there and look, (but I ain't draining it).

 

[vettemanwight]

If it was me and I had a 97 any kind of vehichle I would think about taking the radiator out and having it cleaned also It has to have a lot of junk in it being its 11 years old. Just my 25 cents . You just cant get anything for 2 cents anymore. Gumballs are a nickel as are the old penny pretzels. V

 

[CATMAN]

Do you have a air compressor with a blow gun tip? You could try a really very fast, quick burp of air backwards thru the drain opening of that petcock with it opened that 1/4 turn that you mentioned(I am talking about 1/8 of a second, or as quick as you can "bump" the trigger on the blowgun). I would suggest loosen the radiator cap to the lst latch only. Wear safety glasses, too. My old Toyota pickup has a plastic drain valve that only turns 1/4 turn also, but as you turn it, the tee handle(valve) moves outward at the same time, thus opening the petcock/drain area. I have had many a petcock drains were this method will get the flow going on semi-tractors.

 

[KubotaSam]

Turn the valve the 1/4 turn to open. Next push a stiff piece of wire up through the opening in the bottom. It must have dirt or some other substance clogging the drain. This is very common on old equipment.

 

[Foothill Rancher]

Thanks guys, I'll give these suggestions a try.
I'm thinking that it is plugged with something, as I turn the handle I can see the shaft turning, it has slots on it and seems to be turning out.
Not sure if I can get a wire in there but will try that and the burst of air.

 

[RollTideRam]

It should be 1/4 turn and pull. JC

 

[Foothill Rancher]

I tried the air, couldn't get a wire in around the bend, the air seemed to loosen the knob a bit but still would stop at the quarter turn, very firm, just like a stop.
At this point not knowing how the valve operated I decided to use an old standby I used for forty years, WD-40. Sprayed in the drain, turned the knob, it got a little easier, sprayed a little more and let it sit a few minutes, turned it again and when I hit the quarter spot it gave way and screwed out, arm full of coolant.
I have no idea what was blocking it at that perfect quarter turn but it felt like a stop, I earlier had used pliers on it and it would not move.
It still has a stop slot when cranked closed so nothing seems broken, no leaks.
Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[Foothill Rancher]

I tried the air, couldn't get a wire in around the bend, the air seemed to loosen the knob a bit but still would stop at the quarter turn, very firm, just like a stop.
At this point not knowing how the valve operated I decided to use an old standby I used for forty years, WD-40. Sprayed in the drain, turned the knob, it got a little easier, sprayed a little more and let it sit a few minutes, turned it again and when I hit the quarter spot it gave way and screwed out, arm full of coolant.
I have no idea what was blocking it at that perfect quarter turn but it felt like a stop, I earlier had used pliers on it and it would not move.
It still has a stop slot when cranked closed so nothing seems broken, no leaks.
Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[Egon]

Thanks for the solution.

Isn't that armful of fluid always nice in some cases?

 

[Foothill Rancher]

Thought I would update this as things have changed a bit.
Went to do the flush and new coolant today, drain was stuck again, sprayed with the WD-40 and it opened again and drained, closed it up and put two bottles of flush in and thought I better look under, sure enough draining all over the driveway. It closed and felt fine but would not seal.
Called a radiator shop in the next county and he said fairly common, he had my radiator in stock. Used my new truck and went over and picked it up(by the way the exhaust brake on the new Dodge is the best thing I've every used) anyway I took the old one out and checked the drain, the sides of the radiator is plastic and the drain also but the knob and shaft are metal. As I looked at the knob I saw something sticking out, I picked at it and finally got it out, a piece of rubber o ring, can't see where it came from but was the problem, can see no way to replace the valve or o ring.
Although I wasn't real happy about replacing the radiator it should outlast this truck.
Within two weeks I've replaced rotors,pads,wheel cylinders,brake springs, computer,two sensors and now the radiator, this truck has never given me a problem in twelve years and has been taken very good care of. I'm almost afraid to start it again but who knows, might go another twelve years with out another problem.

 

[Egon]

You have company. My 96 Dodge has had in the last month and a half; new steering box, new rear brake lines, new center bearing and u joints, and a shifting Assembly needed rusted bolts replaced. In total two weeks downtime as the failures occurred on a Friday. Only the steering box was a planned event. Fortunately I was not stranded on the road by any of these failures.

 

[Highbeam]

The trouble is that you bought a nice new truck and the 97 is jealous.

 

[Foothill Rancher]

The trouble is that you bought a nice new truck and the 97 is jealous.

You may have a point but if that's true then the 97 sits being worked on while I drive the new one, but if she's got an evil mind then the money and time being shelled out is probably making her grin.

As of today she's back on the road, I hope for quite awhile, it's been a very expensive month.