R4s for ags, any interest?

[dieselram]

I am looking for someone who has ags and wants r4s, I need more traction. My r4 don't have many hours on them. The tractor is the L2800/3400.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I am looking for someone who has ags and wants r4s, I need more traction. My r4 don't have many hours on them. The tractor is the L2800/3400.

The salesman tried to sell me R4s when I bought the 7520. They seem to do that for some reason. I blew him off. Hope you will be able to find a switch. Youll need wheels and tires both.
larry

 

[Chris2]

Do you still have the R4s

 

[Bedlam]

I noticed after a parts shopping trip today that the dealer I was at has many tractors and all have the R-4 tires. Looks like AG's would be an optional thing.
I know its been debated many times here the pros and cons. I myself prefer the AG's.
Al

 

[sunspot]

I've seen talk of R4's and Ags and I did some web searches to find out what the difference between them. No luck on that. Could someone post some links where I can do a side by side?

 

[Treemonkey1000]

I've seen talk of R4's and Ags and I did some web searches to find out what the difference between them. No luck on that. Could someone post some links where I can do a side by side?

Good question. I did a quick Google search and this is what came up.

There are three main types of tires on tractors today, Agricultural, Turf, and Industrial (R4). Each of these types of tires has specific applications. While tread designs vary between manufacturers the basic purpose of each tire design is the same.
Agricultural (AG) tires are the traditional tractor tires. The AG tire is tall and narrow with deep cleats, designed for maximum traction; pulling plows in a field, working in the woods and operating in muddy conditions. These tires can damage a lawn or field.

The turf tire is designed to minimize damage to a lawn. These tires are short and wide. Typically turf tires have soft sidewalls and non-aggressive tread. On a four wheel drive tractor these tires perform well year round for many homeowners.

The industrial tire was designed for loader work. They tend to be a wide tire with a stiff sidewall. The R4 is not as aggressive as an AG tire, but has substantially more traction than a turf tire. Many customers find R4's work well mowing lawns because they spin less than a turf tire.

Which tire is right for your tractor is a matter of personal choice based upon your needs. However, if our sales are any indication the R4 is the tire of choice for most people.

Union Farm Equipment - Tips

 

[npaden]

I've got R4's on my L4200 and would be willing to swap for Ags in a heartbeat. Of course mine are pretty well worn!

The R4's really aren't that bad though. My only real slippage is when I get into trying to dig in unbroken ground with my front end loader even with the toothbar you can make some pretty big ruts spinning the tires.

The Ags really shine in the mud, but I rarely end up using my tractor in the mud.

 

[alchemysa]

I've seen talk of R4's and Ags and I did some web searches to find out what the difference between them. No luck on that. Could someone post some links where I can do a side by side?

This page is from a small booklet in the Miscellaneous folder at Kubotabooks.com

 

[Builder]

I am looking for someone who has ags and wants r4s, I need more traction. My r4 don't have many hours on them. The tractor is the L2800/3400.

You'll have to switch wheels, too.

 

[Dargo]

I found that I have a need for my loaded R1 tires many times a year but mostly can run with unloaded R4 tires. My only logical answer was to have both. I bought some "blem" R4 tires (only blemish I ever found was part of the warning info stamped on the side of the tire was unreadable) and found that I could get some rims from Hey Machinery Company for about 30% of what most places wanted for rims. The rims came just primed but were really easy to scuff off and paint before mounting the tires; which I did myself. I can tell you that R4's definitely have a stiffer side wall than R1's. But, after a bit of work, I had a complete 2nd set of wheels and tires in R4 tread for a fraction of what it would cost to just go to a dealer or tire shop and buy. I'm not sure if I can list the website or phone number for Hey Machinery here without violating any rules, but they sure are great old fashioned people to work with; very honest and trusting with the customer's needs the number one priority.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I noticed after a parts shopping trip today that the dealer I was at has many tractors and all have the R-4 tires. Looks like AG's would be an optional thing.
I know its been debated many times here the pros and cons. I myself prefer the AG's.
Al

In areas where people are shopping for tractors that wiill not be heavily devoted to farming the lots seem to feature R4 treads almost exclusively, but with the option to go AG at no xtra cost on delivery. This is an economy by standardizing measure since few will insist on the change when they are hot to buy and the tire looks plenty aggressive. They dont see what the R1 user knows - the name of the game on a tractor is traction and the adjustability of tractor stance, and R1s supply this and arent fragile. Once people realize that they didnt get the capability they expected with the R4 its too late to change free. Then the rationalization starts by stressing the verry few times that the R1 might fail in favor of the R4, to the neglect of the R1s overall competence and predominant ability to apply force.
larry

 

[Redbug]

Just thought I would throw this question out...What about having R4 fronts, and R1 rears? R4's in front would be good for loader use, and R1's in back for traction. Anyone tried a setup like this?

The only thing I could think which may affect this setup may be differences in wheel diameter with the transmission and 4 WD...Are the rolling diameters the same with the front tires of R1's vs R4's?

 

[Builder]

Just thought I would throw this question out...What about having R4 fronts, and R1 rears? R4's in front would be good for loader use, and R1's in back for traction. Anyone tried a setup like this?

The only thing I could think which may affect this setup may be differences in wheel diameter with the transmission and 4 WD...Are the rolling diameters the same with the front tires of R1's vs R4's?

Not if you intermix them.

I think R-4's get a bad rap because they don't get as good of traction as R-1's, so they're not as "macho" because they can't be used for insane mud bogging or bottom plowing as good as R-1's can.

I'd guess I've been in as bad a mud as 95% of the members of this website with my poor pathetic R-4's and have yet required a tow. I see more newbie owners buy a tractor and promptly bury it up to the frame in mud in the first 20 hours not because of the tires, but because they don't realize the limitations of their equipment.

The R-4 was built for versatility. R-4's also last longer on hard surfaces and have stiffer sidewalls for heavy loader work. They are wider, they float better and they allow an operator to cut lawns that you wouldn't dare drive over with R-1's with.

Each tire has its' strength. Buy the tire that works best for you in most cases. I think to say "R-1's are superior to R-4's" is silly since R-4's do some things better than R-1's and vice versa.

Or buy 2 sets of tires if you need to cover any situation.

 

[Floydian]

I dont think the debate between R1s and R4s will ever end. I read everything I
could find on TBN about both tires. Hours and hours. This ended up being a harder decision for me than the tractor itself. In my application I chose R1s
because I didnt want to sacrifice traction for anything. Im not finish mowing
and no hard surfaces. For loader work R4s would have been nice but the R1s
(6 ply) do fine for my loader capacity(1874 lbs).
I just think you have to go with the tire that fits the majority of your uses.

Oh yeah-my dealer said you can NOT run R4/front and R1/rear.