quick attach frame to hold forks. what size material should I use?

[countrybumpkin]

Here is a set I built a couple yeas back, they have held up with no issues.

The square tube is 2-1/2" 3/16" thick, the side plates and center support are 3" wide 3/8" thick and the rails are 2" wide 1/2" thick. The saftey rack is 2" wide 1/4" thick.

 

[mwb]

Here is a drawing of the one I built. Works well and easy to build. There are some details missing - QA brackets need gussets obviously but this should give you a good start.
I notched the top hanger such that the forks could be locked side by side; awesome for slinging, poking at rocks...

 

[sniper695]

how exactly are the notches used? my forks don't seem to have anything in them that catches, do you use something in the notch to hold the fork?

 

[ishiboo]

how exactly are the notches used? my forks don't seem to have anything in them that catches, do you use something in the notch to hold the fork?

All of the forks I've owned have a small spring-loaded pin at the top, when it's not "open" the fork is locked into the notch so it can't move.

 

[sniper695]

okay, thanks I will have to see if mine have that, I haven;t looked that closely

 

[Xfaxman]

There have been many threads here in the past about building fork frames like you want to do. If you have to buy the metal, you might want to check the cost of a fork frame from some of the site advertisers.

Call Travis and see what the frame only, would cost. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...g-attachments-manufacturing-pallet-forks.html

Here is one of the threads: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/331277-building-set-forks-need-some.html

 

[Leejohn]

You can blow this picture up and see how I did mine. The metal that hold the forks is 1/2" flat stock and the frame is 2 X 2 X 1/4", The 1/4" wall is a little heavy, could of been 3/16", it's what I had.

 

[metalcaster]

When I built a set a few years ago I didn't want to machine the notches in the top for the catch pins. Instead I cut off the top of the forks and welded some extra heavy wall pipe to the top and then used a 1-3/16" D bar on the top so that the forks would be infinitely adjustable. Used some 1/2" x 4" on the bottom to catch the lower lip of the fork. The top was 2" x 3" x 1/8" wall and they were connected with some 2" x 6" x 1/4" tube. It all held up very well for the 8 years I had it.