questions about moving emplement pins

[careyo63]

Okay I think I know what your saying. It's getting jammed up on the bottom bolt just below the U-joint? If thats what its doing may have to remove it and just make another brace or support instead of the bolt. Looks like no matter what your going to have to do some fabricating. I don't have the bottom bolt for my U-Joint to hit. May have to do a little Ghetto Rigging had to do some myself over the yrs. that I wasn't to proud of but it worked and thats what counts

Carey

 

[dustin3207]

I'm just going to sit back, have a couple cocktails and study the situation .
thats the plans for the weekend. thanks for the input

 

[careyo63]

After thinking more about it just like WILLL posted.The easy way may just be a peace of chain just long enough to tighten up when you lift up the mower. ?????? almost have to see it happening now :anyone:

 

[California]

The easy way may just be a piece of chain just long enough to tighten up when you lift up the mower.

Works for me!

I posted this photo in a different thread to illustrate a different point. But it shows why I use a chain that allows 6" slack. I need a substantial 'hinge' between the tractor and mower to climb the terraces, stairs, between rows in my orchard without everything binding up.

In my case I have the chain from the top of the mower to the top of the Quick Hitch, with the QH adjusted forward to make 6" spacing between the two tops on level ground. Since the 6" of chain is taut on level ground it lifts fine. Climbing like in this photo, the gap closes down to zero chain length.

You have to look at that picture and imagine the horizontal centerline of the tractor projecting back into the mower, then the need for a hinge is obvious.

 

[deepNdirt]

Dustin, Have you tried removing the swivel U that the top link hooks to? and re-position it directly to the Upper part of the A frame? of course you would have to run the link in a bit more, but looking at what you have it looks like everything is up much too high for your tractor, even the lower connecting pins look high up on the cutter leaving the tractor not much room for lift travel,..... the bush hog I have has no spacing between the top part of the A frame otherwise I would try the same on mine, I understand the principle for reason of this swiveling U although not sure if with our tractors we need use it? My previous tractor and cutter had no such device and always seem to work just fine without it,......... about my situation I have the pins off from the cutter and am drilling out the lower holes to re-install them into this will get the tractors arms approx 3" lower to the cutter deck surface, if this does not work then my plans are to weld additional mounting brackets even lower and drop the pins another 3" this will put the pin exactly the same hight as the arms will be in the lowest position,................ though I cannot keep from thinking that the U system is part of our problem I have sketched out what I think may be happening, please correct me if I am wrong
with having the swivel U causes the cutter to drop/swag in the front, there is nothing to hold it firmly in position and simply floats along with the rear wheel controlling the reaction of the cutter...... the second sketch is without the U swivel and one can see how it will become for stable although perhaps more rigid as well, but would prevent the front from dropping all the way down, the leverage of the top link assist in holding it firmly up off the ground, the arrows show the predicted force on the area's of which it is connected,

 

[rmully]

Looks like you need a longer top link. These tractors use shorter top links and i have to use a longer link on the bush hog. I would disconnect the top link and measure how long you need when the mower is level.

 

[tommu56]

I have a similar problem with my 23 the geometry just doesn't work with some implements.

One thought is put the back braces in the top hole and the link asssy in the bottom hole.

Another thought is shorten the diagonal braces so the A frame is slopped back to give you some room for the top link.

tom

 

[Willl]

This is what I was thinking with the chain idea,,,,

See 'bbse's pictures in this thread,,,pages 4+5, posts 37, 39, 41 and 43.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/79563-help-top-link-adjustment-rotary-4.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/79563-help-top-link-adjustment-rotary-5.html

 

[Willl]

Another way would be like 'Beenthere' posted in same thread, page 10, post 95.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/79563-help-top-link-adjustment-rotary-10.html

And again, page 13, post 127.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/79563-help-top-link-adjustment-rotary-13.html

 

[clemsonfor]

Could you take the U-swivel out and put your pin and toplink where it was bolted, this would make it non-sweveling and ridgid like Deep was drawing.

 

[careyo63]

I believe the way Dustin is saying what happens is when the U-swivel goes until it stops and Jams that is what is causing the problem. In doing that removing the U it will most likely be worse. No play or movement and goes far enough may be more or less it's still will be stuck. Lifting the rear end off the ground and then your going for ride. I believe the size of the Tractor and 3pt. is most of the problem.
On all of my mowers the only thing the Top Link is basicly used for is to tighten up an pull the slack up so the back of the mower will be able to lift. This was brought up at the start of this thread and how Unsafe it is for it to be used that way with no Top Link and not being able to lift the mower if needed is a safety issue.Which I agree with. So I'm Back to useing the Chain. Tech. wouldn't even now it's there if you make it long enough but short enough to tighten up If you would so happen to need to lift it and be (on-the cheap and easy) use to have a couple of Girl friends like that worked out great when needed :ashamed: Until I took up the Payments on one Heheeee. Still won't trade for a new model though Couldn't help it Have A GOOD FATHERS DAY weekend Guys.

Carey

 

[dustin3207]

did some metal fab today. think I'm going to need to find a shorter top link if its going to work or ill just do the chain thing.
but for some reason I don't think the geometry is going to be correct for the top link to work.

 

[dcyrilc]

did some metal fab today. think I'm going to need to find a shorter top link if its going to work or ill just do the chain thing.
but for some reason I don't think the geometry is going to be correct for the top link to work.

Tommu56 has the right idea. "One thought is put the back braces in the top hole and the link asssy in the bottom hole." The "U" should be hanging upside down when mowing and your top link should be somewhere near flat/level. I wouldn't necessarily try moving the back braces, but I would definately swap the "U" piece and its sleeve to the bottom hole and the other sleeve to the top hole. The top link needs to hang below the "U" for it to function properly.

Deep,
You don't want the top rigid. It needs to be able to pivot as you up and down over hills/holes. The rear wheel needs to be able to control the height of the rear of the mower as the nose of the tractor goes up or down. The height of the 3PH controls the height of the front of the mower. Can you get me a pic of your top link attachment from the rear?

 

[winston1]

Dustin, I have a configuration similar to yours. Here is what I think is happening. When your tractor back wheels go up and/or your mower tail wheel goes down your swivel pivots forward to a straight line with the top link, then when mower back wheel hits a bump and comes up the swivel drops down below parallel and locks in the down position. I had to come up with a stop on mine that wouldn't allow the swivel to go below parallel with the top link. The swivel should always go up and back, never below parallel with top link. Hope this makes some sense. You could lengthen your top link and help the situation. Looking at your side picture from a distance I would think you could. Just looking at your picture I would think when you are mowing your top link and swivel are very close to parallel. On flat ground the swivel should be around vertical which allows your tail wheel to dip down if tractor goes over a rise. The whole purpose of the swivel is to allow the mower to follow the contour of the ground.

 

[normde2001]

There should be a stop welded in to prevent the toplink from going below center.

Do you mean something like this, Winston? My mower came from the factory that way. I won't have access to it for several weeks, or I would post a picture

 

[winston1]

Do you mean something like this, Winston? My mower came from the factory that way. I won't have access to it for several weeks, or I would post a picture

Yep, that's it.

 

[deepNdirt]

I guess My tractor has a hydraulic issue, I installed a bolt with tension spring and wing nut to the lever guide so's to provide a stopping point for the lever and lift, It now stops at the correct hight although after about 3 minutes the lift arms goes on all the way down, having to keep pulling the lever back up and starting over again and again, I have even tried putting the lift where it needs to be for the front of the cutter to stay off the ground and lock down the twist knob under the seat to try and hold it in place, but still it drops on down, I'm beginning to think this might had started back earlier this spring when plowing with the disk Harrows, The time when the lift got stuck in the up position and would not come back down through the lowering of the lever,

 

[dustin3207]

Ive been thinking.
The idea I have is from back in my jeep days.I do think it will work.
Its 2 hard 2 explain. Ill post pictures when I complete it.

might need a patent when I'm done :laughing::laughing:

 

[dcyrilc]

Ive been thinking.
The idea I have is from back in my jeep days.I do think it will work.
Its 2 hard 2 explain. Ill post pictures when I complete it.

might need a patent when I'm done :laughing::laughing:

Looking forward to seeing the mods. :thumbsup:

 

[dcyrilc]

I guess My tractor has a hydraulic issue, I installed a bolt with tension spring and wing nut to the lever guide so's to provide a stopping point for the lever and lift, It now stops at the correct hight although after about 3 minutes the lift arms goes on all the way down, having to keep pulling the lever back up and starting over again and again, I have even tried putting the lift where it needs to be for the front of the cutter to stay off the ground and lock down the twist knob under the seat to try and hold it in place, but still it drops on down, I'm beginning to think this might had started back earlier this spring when plowing with the disk Harrows, The time when the lift got stuck in the up position and would not come back down through the lowering of the lever,

Rebuilding the 3PH isn't as scarry as it seems before you get into it. See my thread: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/174760-jd-2240-rebuilding-my-3-a.html

I had considered taking it to the dealer for this. Once I got into it, it really is a pretty simple mechanism.