Question for all you welders!!!!

[Steel_Butcher]

I just completed a 20X30 covered work area so that I can work outside my shop in the summertime. I installed an 8 foot rollup door to access this area from my shop. I built a HD roll around cart for my Lincoln 225 "crackerbox" and welded up and installed collaspable HD casters on my all steel welding table<<<<( this is a neat setup if I do say so myself )! Ok here is my question, would it be safe to make up an extension cord say 6 or 8 feet long so I could plug in my 230 volt "crackerbox welder"? I ran 120/230 out to the new work area and have a 230 volt plug for the welder but if I want to do a welding job out on the concrete apron in front I will come up a little short with my welding leads. The other option would be buy longer welding leads.......lookin' for the cheapest way out!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif TIA

dan /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[slowrev]

Yes you can use an extension cord for you crackerbox welder. It will not be cheap though as you will need at least 6-8 gauge wire. And large gauge stranded wire type of cord is not cheap. But might be cheaper than long welding leads. not sure.

Ben

 

[wroughtn_harv]

I have three such extension cords. They total about a hundred feet.

Of course my little plasma, the blower for the sandblasting hood, two fifty amp Miller dialarc, and my power hammer all run off of a two twenty circuit and have fifty amp "welder" plugs.

So with the three cords in different lengths there's always one or a combination that's just right for where I'm working around the shop.

I've also made up a four prong to three prong adaptor for running off the Trailblazer on the truck is so required.

A world without the proper length and gauge extension cord is a world without sunshine. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[MadReferee]

Somewhat like Harv, I have a 50' extension of 10 awg wire (and I think 12 awg would be ok too) for my 220v Millermatic 175. I don't think one needs anything bigger than 8 awg for up to 100'. Remember, you are not running at 100% duty cycle on the welder so you can go with a smaller wire.

 

[BB_TX]

<font color="blue"> .......lookin' for the cheapest way out!!!! </font>
After I bought my welder, I was in the local Lowes one day looking to see how much some additional welding lead would cost. A box of 50' was about $60 if I remember correctly. However, there was a roll of the welding lead laying out that was not in a box. Thinking maybe they had cut off a piece of it, I asked the department manager how much he wanted for the rest of the roll. He looked at it, said he could not sell it since it did not have a box, he tagged it no charge, and gave it to me. When I got home and measured it, it was the full 50'. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Talk about being in the right place at the right time. It don't get any cheaper than that.

 

[rswyan]

You can pick up a premade 8/3 welder extension cord in a 25' or 50' length with molded ends from these guys here:

BR Welding Equipment

Costs about $80 to $105 depending length.

 

[johnbilt]

Hi

I built an extension with SO cable. I would use #6/3 for the standard 50A welder drop. The circuit breaker is designed to limit the current to a safe level. The #6 will handle the current and will limit the voltage drop to the welder. This is not something to skimp on; It affects safety and performance.

If you are running over 50 feet, you may consider going up a size to #4, to insure a good low impedance connection.

Electrical stores will carry this cable and the appropriate connectors for the cable.

Be safe

John

 

[GEB]

Why dont you just add another 220 outlet?
It may come in handy for other things - tools someday?
I have my welder and plasma cutter on a neat little cart also.
I also installed (7) 220 outlets on 3 different breakers.
I can roll my cart anywhere around the shop and pug in.
So maybe think about a few more outlets, their not hard to install.
Gene

 

[lynxpilot]

Extension cords are no biggy unless you have a situation that compounds what otherwise wouldn't have been a problem. If the wire you ran to your workshop is sufficient size to handle all current demands, then you can focus on your extension cord. At this point, you need to check with the 'ampacity tables', easily located on the internet or in little NEC guides you can get at HD or wherever. Look at the maximum rating on your welder and make sure the cord you use has an ampacity rating that exceeds the current draw at max rated. Make sure you are looking at the welders input power rating too (sorry if this sounds patronizing). I had a Lincoln AC225 at one time and as I recall, max draw was around 40 amps or so. I had #8 supply wire to my garage and a 30 amp breaker and actually popped it a few times. For an extension, I'd go way over what I needed. I'd recommend a heavy duty S-type 3-wire cord (SO, SJ, SJO, etc.) in 6 guage or fatter. Chances are the welder's power cord is a 6-3, and if you go smaller, you're asking for trouble. It makes me cringe when somebody suggests 10 or 12 guage. You're apt to start a fire that way. Go to an electrical supply, buy 6-3 SO and the appropriate plug and receptacle. Always unplug when you're done too. Insurance companies don't really care for extension cords.

 

[lynxpilot]

HERE is a link to the tables.

 

[lynxpilot]

HERE is a link to the product info on the AC225. Need to look at input power for the 60Hz version (the other one is Euro trash 50 Hz). Says 50 amps max draw at rated power. Make sure the wire size you use exceeds this rating as per tables in last post.

 

[Steel_Butcher]

Many thanks one and all for the informative information, had I used my head to start with I wouldn't have wasted you guys time w/ your replies. I went to my local electrial supply house a bought 10 feet of 10/3 stranded wire ( $4.68 ). Removed the back panel of my "crackerbox" and removed the originial power cord, snipped the terminal ends off, stripped the wire on the old power cord and the new wire. Twisted the wires together, soldered all the connections, put new termanial ends on the new wire, connected back to the welder, put the back panel back on and I'm back in business. With the addition of the new wire on the power cord and my welding leads I can go out to 60 feet which is more than enough for any welding I want to do. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Thanks again for all the great info.

danny /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[MikeIA]

At work, I switched the welder outlets to 4-prong 50 amp range outlets. Then I built a 4-wire extension from 6/4 SO cable, that powers a 2-circuit breaker box, mounted on the welder cart.
A 3-wire outlet on the bottom is wired in parallel with the breaker box, to power the welder itself, and two 20 amp breakers power two duplex (grounded) outlets.
Now I have 20 amp outlets for the 9" grinder and other tools, right where I need them, no matter where I plug in the welder. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[fractal]

Couple of things.

1 - you can downsize the wire for a welder based on its duty cycle.

2 - You can buy plugs and jacks pretty cheap at home depot and other box stores.

3 - #10 is adequate for a buzz box extension cord up to 50 ft or so.

So, wait until you see a 50 ft extra heavy duty extension cord on sale at your local hardware store or box store. One that uses #10 wire. You can buy a 50 ft #10 extension cord for less than you or I can buy the wire. Cut the ends off and slap on the nema 5-50 plug and socket.

I happened to be driving down the road and saw one in the road that someone had dropped. It was beat up and the plugs on it were shot, but I tossed it in the back of the van and used it to make a welder extension cord.

I wouldn't use a #10 extension cord if I were using a 100% duty cycle welder, but for your basic buzz box that is rated at 20% at max capacity? I would do so without hesitation.

The one thing I can not stress enough is.. Don't make a 50 ft cord and wrap it tightly on a cord reel and just let off 6-8 ft to do the job. That is a recipie for disaster. Either use a shorter cord or unwrap the cord and lay loosly on the floor. The cord will get a tad warm and you don't want it melting into a gooey mess.

I figure you can buy the parts retail to make a 50 ft cord for under 50 bucks. A 25 ft cord will probably cost 40 bucks.