Question about installing aux lighting.

Mayhem · Mar 11, 2005

I am mounting 2 55watt halogen lights on the rops of my BX2200.
I was going to install a separate switch on the dash, but then I got the idea of just hooking into the tail lamps.This way I can just use the existing headlamp switch.I can't see a problem with the front headlamps being on also because they are only 1156 bulbs. I am wondering if the wiring going to the tail lamps can handle the 55watt Halogen lights. Give me some advise if you got any /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Rich

Bob_Skurka · Mar 11, 2005

I have no idea if the wiring you want to tap into can take the extra draw of two 55 watt lamps, it is very likely the fuse will NOT take the extra draw as you will be putting approximately 9.2 amps more through that circuit than it is designed for. Also, keep in mind that if you have the standard alternator, it is probably a small unit of about 15amps so you will be drawing down the battery as you run the extra lights. I would suggest you run the extra lights on their own circuit with their own switch. I'd also suggest you power the switch with a relay so it takes the load. Bear in mind that if you run the lights for fairly short intervals with the engine at/near full RPMs you will be charging the battery at 15amps, but you will be drawing down the battery at probably somethine closer to 22 amps (2 headlamps @ 55 watts each, 2 aux lamps at 55watts each, misc running lamps at ??? watts each). So you will want to be careful not to run those extra lights for hours on end because even with the engine running at full speed you are still drawing down your battery.

From the practical standpoint, you can run your extra lights for 30 to 45 mintues without much grief as long as you allow the system to recharge the next time you run your tractor. If you draw the battery down too low, you will end up replacing your battery as it will be damaged.

Now if you have the HD alternator, then forget everything I just wrote about the draw down, but consider the individual circuit/switch/relay!

Mayhem · Mar 11, 2005

Thank You Bob, You said exactly what I thought I was just hoping there would be an easy way out. One thing I'm confused about is

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Bear in mind that if you run the lights for fairly short intervals with the engine at/near full RPMs you will be charging the battery at 15amps, but you will be drawing down the battery at probably somethine closer to 22 amps (2 headlamps @ 55 watts each, 2 aux lamps at 55watts each, misc running lamps at ??? watts each). )</font>

My new Aux lights are 55watts each but your saying my headlights are 55watts also,however they are only the 1156 light bulb.The ones that used to be tail lights in most vehicles before they came out with all these different bulbs. they aren't any more than the tail lights are so that cuts the total amps down abit. Right? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

jpr62902 · Mar 11, 2005

Rich,

You could put a switch where the cupholder is (see attachment).

jpr62902 · Mar 11, 2005

And then run your lights off of the aux. wire under the seat (see attached).

Also, the headlamps are only 24 watts a piece, per the manual.

Mayhem · Mar 11, 2005

Not a bad idea.Where did you get the power supply from?
The part I would like to avoid is running the wires up to the dash.I know it's not difficult, I'm just being lazy /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Nice idea though,Did you use a weatherproof switch?

NY_Yankees_Fan · Mar 11, 2005

Where did get the power supply from?

And then run your lights off of the aux.

wire under the seat

jpr62902 · Mar 11, 2005

Under your seat is a red wire (I believe it also has a black stripe), which is used for auxillary electric stuff (i.e. lights). It's tucked in that black plastic tubing, so you'll have to do a little diggin to find it.

The switch is just a garden variety one from Radio Shack (not weatherproof). I've had it drenched with melted snow in two seasons without any problems.

NYYankees fan beat me to it!

Mayhem · Mar 11, 2005

I was typing as you were posting,good idea. I'm still surprised at 24watts for a simple 1156 bulb.

Volfandt · Mar 11, 2005

All good advice but I took a different route. I added 2 ea 35watt sealed Beam lights to the ROPS and ran the wire all the way to the dash where I used a pass-through splice to splice it into the headlite wire right at the switch. I wired in a separate 15amp fuse to this circuit also. I didn't want to splice into the tail lights as I wasn't sure of the current carrying capacity nor if any thing else was spliced into that circuit.
The twin 35watt lights put out enough illumination for me and the load to the dynamo/electrical system is very acceptable.

According to my BX23 manual, the ratings of the factory lighting is:
Headlights = 24W
Taillights = 3W
Total watts = 27W
Total stck lighting current draw = 27/12 = 2.5 amps

Adding two 55watts lights:
2 ea 55watt lights = 110watts
current draw = 110/12 = 9.16 amps

Added together, the total lighting current draw = 9.16 + 2.5 = 11.6 amps.

While twin 55watt lights will work, they in conjunction w/the stock lights get mighty close to the rated output of the dynamo which is 14 to 15 amps. They'll probably work OK but you may want to run the engine awhile after useing them to recharge the battery more.

Oh and btw, I've seen halogen ligts at Norhern w/a large magnet on the base. Supposedly it's strong enough to hold teh light assembly to any metal surface at any angle. They may be worth checking out.

Mayhem · Mar 11, 2005

All this talk of amp draw got me searching. My headlights are a pair of 1156 standard light bulbs (the kind they used to use in car and truck tail lights)(see attachment) they are NO better than mounting a pair of Bic lighters up front,other than they don't blow out. The amp draw for these is 2.1 amps each. Then theres the tail lamps. They are a 194 bulb with a draw of .54amps each.Now add on my 55watt Aux lights with an amp draw of 9.16 for the pair(Using Volfandt's Numbers)
This gives me a total of 14.44 amps. My asumption is that I will have enough alternater(Close) and I am best off running it off it's own protected curcuit. I am going to mount a new switch in the dash and run the wires in pvc wire loom along the same route that the factory harness runs. Thanks for all the help and ideas guys.

MadReferee · Mar 11, 2005

The stock dynamo on the BX and B series has a charging rate of 14.5 amps. You will be right at its max if you turn everything on.

Bob_Skurka · Mar 11, 2005

I had no idea the stock headlamps were such low wattage, that changes the draw, so I would agree with the others. I would still recommend running a separate circuit to a relayed powered switch rather than tying it into a circuit that is already fused for a low powered light.

Tollster · Mar 11, 2005

botalvr · Mar 13, 2005

For $5 you could go down to AutoZone and get some Blazer light bulbs for the useless 1156's.
Much better than stock. And as long as they are not used alot they shouldn't put you over the power limit too much.
I also found that the ROPS mounted light switch fits inside the Kubota worklight, so that's where I mounted the water proof switch. Not as cool as a dash mounted switch but much easier=more seat time.

/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Av8r3400 · Mar 13, 2005

I did exactly what you are thinking about. The only differance is I used 2 35w "tractor" lights I bought at the dealer. They are rubber cased and very durable. 35W is plenty bright for night snowblowing and FEL work. I used a relay powered by the ignition on lead under the seat and switched the relay with the tail light lead. I have had no problems with the system. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

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