Putting a Meyer's power angle on a Ford NAA
jayste
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I've not done this but I commend you for keeping the old NAA in service!
Jay
Jay
Soundguy
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I've seen plenty of tractors, including NAA with snow plows.. like most things.. if you have a welder and a chop saw.. I'm sure you can get it done.
I'd reccomend a front mounted stinger pump to get hyds, otherwise you have to tep the naa internal hyds and that is VERY hard to do without modifying the oem lift cover blank plate, or finding a diverter valve.. and even if you do.. you get a measly 2.85gpm flow at about 1700 psi. I've done the mod for a trip loader on my naa.. but it was a decent amount of work.
soundguy
I'd reccomend a front mounted stinger pump to get hyds, otherwise you have to tep the naa internal hyds and that is VERY hard to do without modifying the oem lift cover blank plate, or finding a diverter valve.. and even if you do.. you get a measly 2.85gpm flow at about 1700 psi. I've done the mod for a trip loader on my naa.. but it was a decent amount of work.
soundguy
I saw an old ford once that used a cable connected to the 3 point arms to lift the plow.
It had a bar between the 2 lift arms, and a cable hooked around the bar. There was a roller made from some pipe mounted under the rear end for the cable to rub on. The cable ran under the tractor to a couple of pulleys at the front, and then down to the plow. When the 3 point lifted the cable pulled the plow up.
This plow had a couple of lengths of channel welded to the A frame. They ran back to under the rear axle where it pivoted on some brackets. This way it pushed from the back without putting a lot of stress on the tractor. It was manual angle.
Stan
It had a bar between the 2 lift arms, and a cable hooked around the bar. There was a roller made from some pipe mounted under the rear end for the cable to rub on. The cable ran under the tractor to a couple of pulleys at the front, and then down to the plow. When the 3 point lifted the cable pulled the plow up.
This plow had a couple of lengths of channel welded to the A frame. They ran back to under the rear axle where it pivoted on some brackets. This way it pushed from the back without putting a lot of stress on the tractor. It was manual angle.
Stan
90% of plowing is done with the angle fixed at about 30 degrees from center. Maybe you could learn to live with that setting and change it manually with a pin/hole fixture. You can use a cable from the lift arms through a drawbar pulley and to the front with a fixed upright to raise the plow as necesary.
beenthere
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As both have just mentioned, the cable to the 3 ph arms is how I managed a front plow on my TO 30 Ferguson, some 30 years back. Worked pretty well for several winters.
Soundguy
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can also just put a large SA cyl between the 3pt drawbar and the toplink, and run a hose to another one up front on a mast.. as you lif thte 3pt, it compresses the cyl on the 3pt, expells the oil, and thus expands the cyl on the front, lifting the plow proportionately to volume of the cyls.. IE.. a closed hyd system.. then you could for sure do the fixed pin setup.. or use a turnbuckle setup..
that's the for sure, cheap N easy way.
soundguy
that's the for sure, cheap N easy way.
soundguy
beenthere
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Soundguy
I like that idea. Wondering how one gets it "closed" with air expelled?
Does one need a small supply tank above the front and rear cyl. that has a shut-off valve?
I like that idea. Wondering how one gets it "closed" with air expelled?
Does one need a small supply tank above the front and rear cyl. that has a shut-off valve?
Soundguy
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I assume you coud fill one cyl via hyds thru the hose, fill the other and expel a bit, and then union the hoses with a 3-way female pipe T and add make up oil, then plug..
soundguy
soundguy
SoundGuy's idea of a cylinder on the 3pt lift ought to get an award. That's the best trick I've seen all year. Now I have to run out and work it up in 20 degree cold temps. Gonna need a welder/heater for this job ! Great suggestion.
