Putting a 2.75" hardened steel pipe on rear blade for plowing in soft conditions?

   / Putting a 2.75" hardened steel pipe on rear blade for plowing in soft conditions?
  • Thread Starter
#41  
The real questions is if the ground is that soft do you really even need to touch the ground with the plow?

With my roller coaster of a road, it would make my job 10 times easier if I could just drop the blade (float) and go. On a flat road, I could see just setting a blade 1" from the gravel and having at it, but that doesn't work with my road unfortunately.
 
   / Putting a 2.75" hardened steel pipe on rear blade for plowing in soft conditions?
  • Thread Starter
#42  
There’s no need to do anything to the blade. Just turn it around so the cutting edge faces the rear and drive forward. It will skim the snow off the road without digging in.

I did try this but I found my blade just collected the snow. To be fair the section of road I was trying it on was below grade, but still, when facing forward, the blade would still clear and push snow to the side of the road rather than just collecting. Maybe it would have done better with less snow, or dryer snow?
 
   / Putting a 2.75" hardened steel pipe on rear blade for plowing in soft conditions?
  • Thread Starter
#43  
Being that the OP has a FEL, I wonder if triple Edge Tamers might work for some conditions? :unsure:

I have four Edge Tamers on my 84" bucket. Works great for clearing open areas/intersections. It fills up to quickly for plowing the roads though.
 
   / Putting a 2.75" hardened steel pipe on rear blade for plowing in soft conditions?
  • Thread Starter
#44  
I think I'll try the pipe since I already have it. Also, since I will have all those rear remotes soon, I can put the gauge wheel back on and see how that does. Maybe even revisit turning the blade around since I now have a hydraulic top link to play with the angle.
 
   / Putting a 2.75" hardened steel pipe on rear blade for plowing in soft conditions? #45  
I did try this but I found my blade just collected the snow. To be fair the section of road I was trying it on was below grade, but still, when facing forward, the blade would still clear and push snow to the side of the road rather than just collecting. Maybe it would have done better with less snow, or dryer snow?
It does work better with drier snow and you have to angle the blade to kick it to the side. I don’t think there’s any snow removal solution besides a blower that would do anything differently on a below grade level road. It has to be able to kick the accumulated snow to the shoulder.
 
   / Putting a 2.75" hardened steel pipe on rear blade for plowing in soft conditions? #46  
The hottest month in Edgewood is June, where temperatures can get into the mid 90s. In July -August temperatures fluctuate between the mid 70-80s depending on whether or not it has rained that day. Now we are in the low 70s, headed for the 60s soon. It’s not really a hot climate; even Albuquerque only get an average of 4-5 days per year when they might break 100 degrees. Keep in mind that Edgewood is over 6,500’ elevation and where I live is 6,950’.
Ah, you're up a bit over Edgewood proper, which I'm sure helps.

Anyway, "hot" is relative and to me 80 is about the max I want to be subjected to.
The overnight lows of 30 lately has been delightful I think, and 65-70 for highs is quite nice.

I haven't even left a single window open overnight lately or the bedroom would likely get to below my preferred 55 degrees.
 
   / Putting a 2.75" hardened steel pipe on rear blade for plowing in soft conditions? #47  
Ah, you're up a bit over Edgewood proper, which I'm sure helps.

Anyway, "hot" is relative and to me 80 is about the max I want to be subjected to.
The overnight lows of 30 lately has been delightful I think, and 65-70 for highs is quite nice.

I haven't even left a single window open overnight lately or the bedroom would likely get to below my preferred 55 degrees.
It has been in the 40s at night for the past week and low 70s for highs. September and October are near perfect.
 
   / Putting a 2.75" hardened steel pipe on rear blade for plowing in soft conditions? #48  
With 1/2 mile gravel drive/private road I tried the PVC pipe and steel conduit.
Neither worked for very long.
I then clamped some 2" angle iron to my york rake & was surprised by the results.
Now I have angle iron bolted to or replacing the cutting edge on front & rear blades.
I can even plow snow from grass areas without tearing it up. York Rake.jpg20201019_124540.jpg
 
   / Putting a 2.75" hardened steel pipe on rear blade for plowing in soft conditions? #49  
I have a few miles of gravel road that I need to plow - conditions are often soft. It's full of ups and downs, like a roller coaster, so being able to float my rear blade would make life a LOT easier. Turning the blade around does not work well because the rear of the blade is full of uneven edges due to all the reinforcing, so it just gathers snow.

It's a very heavy attachment, probably close to 1,600lbs and I'm hoping the pipe will allow the blade to "glide" over the gravel without digging in and messing it up too much.
I have done just that. I would use a larger pipe. Mine is 4" and I wish it 6". Get the thickest wall you can get. After 8 years of use mine is wearing thin wear it contacts the ground. I had a welding shop cut a slot in the pipe and it fits over the cutting edge on the snow plow. 3 steel straps bolt it to the plow and allow me to attach or remove it. I wish there were covers over the ends as it collects stones and dirt when the blade it angled. Works great to clear snow from my gravel driveway and grass areas with out destroying the sod or pushing all the stone off my driveway.
 
   / Putting a 2.75" hardened steel pipe on rear blade for plowing in soft conditions? #50  
UHMW link
picked up 2 2x6x48" pieces for my
Skidsteer plow ,bolted right on after drilling holes .
 
 

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