Pulling a stump jumper off a Land Pride rotary cutter?

[Fallon]

I've got a LandPride 1860 rotary cutter with a leaky output shaft seal, possibly other gearbox issues. I got the castle nut off the bottom, but am not able to get the stump jumper off the gearbox. Crowbars, 7' tamping bar, propane torch heating up the outside of the splines, no luck. I can't get a great place to pry as the deck & pan on the stump jumper flex a lot. But I heated things up & was prying as best I could. Beat on theings with a hammer & some rebar as a drift. Flipped it right side up & pounded on the top of the stump jumper througth the big hole for accessing the bolts holding the blades to the stump jumper.

Any suggestions? Get a better torch than my little yellow bottle MAPP gas torch? Porta power that may get under the stump jumper to try & pry closer to the center of the stump jumper?

 

[old and tired]

I would have just filled the gear case with Corn grease 00 and not done anything else... Corn grease doesn't leak out the bottom seal.

Waiting to see what others say... Good luck with it!!!

 

[Fallon]

I would have just filled the gear case with Corn grease 00 and not done anything else... Corn grease doesn't leak out the bottom seal.

Waiting to see what others say... Good luck with it!!!

I did this with my old flail mower. $80 for new seals was more than the mower was worth. Still have it as my backup & last I used it the gearbox was doing better than the rest of the mower with multiple cracks in the deck.

This one belongs to a neighbor & they want it done reasonably right. I think is leaking a bit much even for grease. I'm half expecting to find bearings going out, which would be a new gearbox, which they are fine with. But I still need to get the stump jumper off to replace the seal or pull the gearbox apart enough to check the bearings.

 

[WM75Guy]

I would think heat and hydraulic spreaders are viable options. If you try a hydraulic spreader I would use 2, one on each side, so it will come straight off. Just using one will cause it to flex, bind, and possibly score the shaft. Don't be standing in front of it when it comes off. Use the FEL and bucket to stop it from flying off. Same principle as when we popped doors at wrecks, the guy pumping the hydraulic pump had his butt against the door.

 

[Tinhack]

There's most likely a splined/keyed bar behind the disk and blades. Pull the blades off first then the disk should come off. The bar may need a puller to get off.

 

[WM75Guy]

There's most likely a splined/keyed bar behind the disk and blades. Pull the blades off first then the disk should come off. The bar may need a puller to get off.

That sounds like the proper way to go, easier than a hydraulic spreader. A 2 jaw puller would make short work of it. I took this diagram off the Land Pride website. I used my Land Pride model number to look up the manual.

 

[Xfaxman]

Any suggestions?

This is what I did to remove the stump jumper on mine:

Put another wrench on the head of the big bolt and did "lefty loosely" forcing the nut down putting tension on the chain.

The little bolt through the shaft, kept it from falling when it broke loose

 

[KS KIOTI]

You’d be surprised what an air hammer/chisel will knock loose. Short work of stuck rotors, and pins on loaders, brrrrrrap and they’re loose.

Not sure if you have a long enough bar and room to give it a couple hits through the holes on top of the cutter.

 

[ruffdog]

I drilled and tapped two 1/2-13 holes so I could bolt my puller to the stump jumper.

 

[jshwhite]

In my experience, hammering the end of the shaft (with the nut on to protect it) while you have pressure on the stump jumper, is the best method. Easiest is if you have a FEL or backhoe, flip the whole cutter upside down and pick it up a bit from the stump jumper. Give the shaft a whack or two and it will drop out. Watch your toes/legs. They can be a beast to get off.

 

[alexpops]

I've used all of the above, but the thing that usually works last on ANYTHING rusted stuck is when I get frustrated enough to quit for a while & soak the hell out of it with PB Blaster as a "parting gift". a few days of repeating that then any of the above usually goes much easier than day 1 attempt.

 

[RayIN]

There's most likely a splined/keyed bar behind the disk and blades. Pull the blades off first then the disk should come off. The bar may need a puller to get off.

Apparently the Land Pride stump jumper disc is welded to the crossbar.
This diagram is from messicks.com

 

[5030]

Harbor Fright makes a dandy hydraulic 2 or 3 jaw puller. I have one and it works fine on frozen on brake rotors so it should work on that stump jumper as well. I can remove any stuck on brake rotor with about 4 pumps and it it don't pull the rotor, it breaks it in 2 for easy removal. I have the 10 ton model btw. Best heavy duty puller I've ever used.

 

[Fallon]

I was under the impression that the blades were mounted to the stump jumper, not arms underneath. Will work on pulling them off on my next shot at it.

Colorado weather slowed down my efforts a bit. Got to love a weather forecast of high of 76 with 2.5" of snow. Even worse when the weatherman is right. Then I'm traveling this weekend.

 

[richellulu]

I've got a LandPride 1860 rotary cutter with a leaky output shaft seal, possibly other gearbox issues. I got the castle nut off the bottom, but am not able to get the stump jumper off the gearbox. Crowbars, 7' tamping bar, propane torch heating up the outside of the splines, no luck. I can't get a great place to pry as the deck & pan on the stump jumper flex a lot. But I heated things up & was prying as best I could. Beat on theings with a hammer & some rebar as a drift. Flipped it right side up & pounded on the top of the stump jumper througth the big hole for accessing the bolts holding the blades to the stump jumper.

Any suggestions? Get a better torch than my little yellow bottle MAPP gas torch? Porta power that may get under the stump jumper to try & pry closer to the center of the stump jumper?

Sounds like you’ve thrown everything but the kitchen sink at it. At this point, I’d seriously consider stepping up your heat—those little yellow MAPP bottles just don’t put out enough for something like this. If you can get your hands on an oxy-acetylene or oxy-propane torch, heat the hub around the splines only and try to get it red-hot (but not the shaft). That expansion might be just enough to break the bond.

Also, if you have access to a porta power or even a bottle jack, try setting up a centered push from underneath—like through the blade bolt access hole—so you're not prying against the flexy parts of the stump jumper. Some guys also fab up a puller that bolts through the blade holes and pulls down evenly.

Worst case, you may have to cut the hub off, but I’d try heat + pressure before going there. Good luck, that’s a nasty job.

 

[Fallon]

New 3/4" drive socket from HF & an 8' pipe got the blades off.

Sketchy levels of force making the stump jumper look like a pringles chip was not successful on the stump jumper. No heat, gonna try & scrounge up a oxy acetylene torch for my next run.

I'm still not certain if the blade carrier is attached to the stump jumper. Taco levels of force seems to indicate it's welded together. Or at least the stump jumper is rusted & seized onto the blade carrier with the same levels of crud the blade carrier is attached to the shaft. The stump jumper didn't flex where that 1" thick bar stock or whatever makes the blade carrier was, only 90 degrees off.

 

[thclimer]

Oh my what a project!

Its going to be interesting to find out how its attached.

 

[EddieWalker]

I've removed them a few times. I just put a pipe through the access hole to remove the blade bolts and beat the pipe with a T Post pounder. Hit it a couple times, spin it to the other side, hit it a few times, and spin it to the other side and hit it a few times. Eventually, it always falls off.

 

[mwayne]

I built this puller to get a stump jumper off that had been on for 30 years. Used a 20 ton jack to break it loose and the 2 ton in the picture to finish. I drilled 4 holes through the pan to allow the all threads to connect to bars behind the rotor bar.

 

[dadohead]

I've pulled stump jumpers successfully by using a pair of wedges between the underside of the deck and the outer lip of the SJ at 12:00, 3:00, 6:00, and 9:00 position.

First, measure the deck-to-rim gap around your stump jumper (usually around 2"). Layout and saw/sand 4 pair of wedges cut from hardwood so you can initially install. They'll need to expand beyond your gap thickness. I put a small notch on the 4 SJ side wedges so they engage the SJ rim and stay put as I tap on its mate.

Orient the 4 pair of wedges evenly around the SJ. The deck side wedges are the ones you will tap on driving inward. The 4 SJ wedges stay put because they are held by their notches.

Screw the castle nut on a few threads because the SJs often release violently. As mentioned, penetrating oil or heat can also help. Start tapping the deck side wedges in evenly. An occasional wack on the castle nut will also help it pop. She's usually off in 5 minutes... keep the wedges for the next time!