Pulling a Branson motor

[RockyM]

Hello all,

I've lurked here for a while now trying to glean info on my new, used 3510 Branson. Now, however, I need your help. In the middle of plowing snow I threw the rear rod through the side of my block ........ Left a nice hole.

I've followed the sketchy instructions in the manual(s), but the engine won't come out. It is a shuttle shift, and I've removed 6 bolts and 2 nuts around the bellhousing, and 8 bolts on each side of the frame (engine mounts). What am I missing? Do I have to seperate the front frame? Any and all suggestions welcome.

RockyM

 

[GEB]

Sorry Rocky, dont have a clue whats hanging it up?
Do you have a clue as to why it threw a rod?

 

[RockyM]

It just about has to be oil related. I checked the oil level 1-2 days prior and it was in the middle of the acceptable range. After throwing the rod it was still running (smoking like a chimney) allowing me to get it to the shop . After getting it into the shop I checked the level and no oil was on the dipstick. The oil light didn't come on (at least that I noticed) until she was knocking hard enough to get my attention. Was it low on oil? did the oil pump fail? Maybe a combination of the two ..... I just don't know.

I've got a short block coming, along with a new oil pump just in case. I'm thinking of installling a "NAPA" oil gage to make **** sure it doesn't happen again. It's been an expensive lesson.

RockyM

 

[tnaz]

Hope all goes well for ya. That is not good, did by chance Branson help out any. And if you don't mind the question, did you get the short block from Branson?

Good Luck Rocky,
terry

 

[RockyM]

It was a year out of warranty.

As to the short block, I didn't know at the time where my tractor had been originally purchased so I made some desperate calls. One place blew off returning my call for over a week. Nelson Welding (and Branson dealer) out of Lostine Oregon has been helping me, and seems to be sharing my pain. He located the short block (at the branson factory I think) and had them hold it for him. Should be getting shipped tomorrow or the next day at the latest.

RockyM

 

[jgreen]

Hi Folks,

I wanted to add my two cents worth on pulling the engine. If you have everything disconnected you will still need to pull the engine/transmission apart at the same angle (straight apart) to disengage the transmission input shaft from the clutch disc splines. If you have them at a slightly different angle from each other, the transmission input shaft splines will bind on the clutch disc slplines. I don't know if this is what is holding up the separation process on your tractor but it can cause some words to be said that I will not use here.

One more thing, when a connecting rod goes through the side of the block, and the engine still will run, you will lose a lot of oil in a hurry. I am not saying that low oil level did not cause the mishap just wanted to include this in the post FYI. I guess this should be a lesson for all of us to check the oil and other fluid levels a little more often.

Good luck on the engine replacement!

 

[tnaz]

It was a year out of warranty.

As to the short block, I didn't know at the time where my tractor had been originally purchased so I made some desperate calls. One place blew off returning my call for over a week. Nelson Welding (and Branson dealer) out of Lostine Oregon has been helping me, and seems to be sharing my pain. He located the short block (at the branson factory I think) and had them hold it for him. Should be getting shipped tomorrow or the next day at the latest.

RockyM

Hey Rocky, how is this going so far. Have you any ideas as to why she came a part? Just check in.
Good Luck;
Terry

 

[RockyM]

A Branson mechanic seems to think that it is just hung up on the dowel between the engine and transmission.

Between work and building a new house I just haven't gotten back to it yet. hopefully on Monday.

Thanks for the replies

RockyM

 

[tnaz]

Alright Rocky, how are thing going???

tnaz

 

[montanaman]

Is it a dry fit, or is there sealer between the engine and bellhousing? I know many brands seal that area to keep any dust from getting into the clutch and you can have a heck of a time getting them apart. If there is a catch to hold the clutch down, that will put the pressure of the pressure plate working for you too. If it's sealed of stock on the dowel pins, just make 200% sure you have all of the bolts out and try to gently get it it spread with a gasket scraper and small swinging press. Just work real slow and careful!

Ken

 

[Tractor Rep]

Had a couple of tractors that we had to pull motors on and usually they will hang up on the dowels and you have to get the splines on the output shaft to co-operate. The slightest degree off and they jam up.

If the engine paint and primer have used up the tolerance space or was thick enough to cause a bit of adhesion make it tough to get it unglued and free of the frame rails.

 

[tnaz]

Hey Rocky, got that tractor going yet??

terry

 

[RockyM]

Morn'n all,

Should have checked Jgreen's message quicker. Maybe I'm just to new to the game, but I'm a decent backyard mechanic. In all the differnent Branson people I talked to no one told me that I had to "split" the tractor. I looked at the frame and it looked like my pickup so the engine should jsut slide right out ...... right? No grasshopper!

I was starting the long drive back to Home from around Olympia when I saw red tractors on the side of the road. I turned around and stopped in. The mechanic took me out to a similar tractor and showed me just what to do. Can't remember the name of the dealer but it is on SR-101 between Shelton and Olympia. I love those guys.

Any way I got the engine pulled today, and the shortblock should arrive early next week. There is light at the end of the tunnel, and I don't think it is a locomotive (but I'm still not sure.)

On a different, but connected, note. Branson REALLY needs a "Clymer" style manuel. The one that came with the tractor is darn near useless.

Thanks for the replies. Building a house and fixing a tractor really should be done seperately, not at the same time

Rocky

 

[tnaz]

I thought you went in hyber-something. Glad to hear ya still move in a positive direction.
I'll be watching for up-dates.

terry

 

[RockyM]

Guess it's time for an update.

Short block arrived and last Monday I took my "air-cooled" engine and the new short block to the mechanic who is going to switch all the "stuff" over for me. I have high hopes of having a tractor again by the end of next month.

Gotta get it done soon .... I've got trenches to dig, and piles of dirt to move.

Rocky

 

[tnaz]

Have you got it going yet Rock???

Terry

 

[RockyM]

Engine is not done yet. My friend is using it as a teaching tool with his class, so switching over the parts from one block to the other may take a little time.

But since he is doing it for free, and there is no way I'd have time right now to deal with it on my own, I'm not complaining one bit.

Rocky

 

[tnaz]

That sounds great, some are learning and you get some free fixin's. Glad its progression.

Terry

 

[RockyM]

Hi all

Here's what I know. Got the engine back Thursday and got it back in the tractor today. Monday or Tuesday I'm going to run the tractor down to my friend and he and the students that switched the engine parts are going to do the initial fire-up. check it our and make sure it's all behaving. When they get done I've got the sheet metal to put back on then I'll have a tractor again. It's definately been a long road, but with the help of good friends we are just about there.

On a side note it appeared to my friend that the cause of the failure may have been an overtightened nut(s) on the rod end (I think thats what he said, I was still yahooing over the engine being done). He said the oil pump was fine. While he has it for the startup he is going to install a gauge for me.

RockyM