Pull-Back collar on PTO shaft

[CalG]

This is my take...

When I am fitting a pto driven attachment to any of my tractors, (Cat 1 and Cat II) , I first check the tractor pto stub for crud or corrosion, and give it a dose of some sort of lube, Usually penatrating oil, 'cause that's what I usually have handy.

Then I have a look at the attachment hook up. If it's a push bolt style, I exercise it a time or two, and if it needs lube, Well, There is that same can of penetrating oil. I make sure I don't have to fight the lock!

If it;s a slide collar, I do the same. Getting a feel for just how much effort I need to put into the locking collar to get it to open. Lube is my friend, along with exercise!

Then, With the tractor and attachment near to mated, I align the pto stub and coupling. Sometimes that means shifting the tractor pto drive out of engagement to get the stub to spin free. Seems that spinning a pto shaft is never easy!

I'm always amazed at how FAR into engagement the pto spline members travel before the locking element is encountered. But I do NOT open the lock until it is encountered!

I found I spent way too much effort holding the lock open prior to fitting the pto splines. WASTED EFFORT. Work without purpose! STUPID!

Do one job, then do the other when the time is right.

I do make a habit of pulling hard TWICE on the coupling after I "think" all is mated and secure.
I have been caught a few times, and glad for it!

Bottom line

Prep the parts, Divide the tasks, check you work!

 

[pmsmechanic]

Another thing to make slipping the prop shaft onto the stub easier is to regularly lubricate the telescoping inner/outer shaft.

What do you lube the sliding part of the shaft with? I used to use grease but it collects far too much dirt and soon the shaft is just about impossible to slide. At one point I washed all the grease off and now I just use WD40. It's probably not enough of a lube but all of my telescoping shafts slide very freely.

At the present rate of wear these shafts are not going to wear out in my lifetime. Also on most CUT sized shafts the telescoping parts are not expensive or hard to replace.

 

[Hay Dude]

What do you lube the sliding part of the shaft with?

Grease only

I used to use grease but it collects far too much dirt and soon the shaft is just about impossible to slide.

Does yours have plastic shielding? Should not collect dirt if it does.

At one point I washed all the grease off and now I just use WD40. It's probably not enough of a lube but all of my telescoping shafts slide very freely.

I do not like WD-40 for this application, but if it’s working for you, use it.

At the present rate of wear these shafts are not going to wear out in my lifetime.

Yes, they eventually will. And when they grenade, better check the underwear.

The tractor end spun around like a steel baseball bat and almost took out all my hydraulic lines until I could get it to stop.

Also on most CUT sized shafts the telescoping parts are not expensive or hard to replace.

but why would you want to replace something that can easily be maintained?

 

[jwmorris]

All of mine are old and have the push-pin release. Even those can be cantankerous at times if not kept lubed.

I have a few of those I have gutted, then drilled out 1/2” and use a bolt and Nylock nut to hold them in place. Requires tools (I keep on tractors) but not much hand strength.

 

[pmsmechanic]

Grease only



Does yours have plastic shielding? Should not collect dirt if it does.


I do not like WD-40 for this application, but if it’s working for you, use it.



Yes, they eventually will. And when they grenade, better check the underwear.

View attachment 4302629

The tractor end spun around like a steel baseball bat and almost took out all my hydraulic lines until I could get it to stop.

View attachment 4302630




but why would you want to replace something that can easily be maintained?

Most of my implements do not have plastic shielding. It wears out over time and becomes a nuance and so gets trimmed or removed.

I don't concider this a safety issue as all my implements are 3ph and the pto is well with in the confines of the quick attach and mounting framework..

If necessary the shafts will be replaced long before they grenade. Since the plastic shields are gone they are very easy to inspect.

I can relate to the pto shaft whipping around. I was working for friends and the implement hitch broke. I looked back and the hydraulic hoses were stretched tight. They automatically released before any damage and I managed to get the pto shaft stopped before it was damaged. Your right, check your shorts.

"but why would you want to replace something that can easily be maintained?" Because my body is worth something too and I feel that eventually replacing part of a pto shaft is a very small price to pay vs the frustration of fighting a shaft on and off because the grease is all stiffened up with dirt. And contrary to your recommendation the dirt does accumulate under the plastic shield. I've been there and that's why the shield doesn't get replaced after it's worn out.

 

[Shawn T. W.]

I guess I must not use mine enough, but I use Lucas Red & Tacky on mine ... Wipe off any grease/dirt before putting the shaft back on the tractor ...

 

[Hay Dude]

Most of my implements do not have plastic shielding. It wears out over time and becomes a nuance and so gets trimmed or removed.

I don't concider this a safety issue as all my implements are 3ph and the pto is well with in the confines of the quick attach and mounting framework..

If necessary the shafts will be replaced long before they grenade. Since the plastic shields are gone they are very easy to inspect.

I’d recommend replacing the shield. Safety is important, but I’d be more concerned with rust seizing up the inner & outer. I’ve read a few stories where this happens and operator doesn’t realize it and when it won’t slide in/out, bad things can happen.

I can relate to the pto shaft whipping around. I was working for friends and the implement hitch broke. I looked back and the hydraulic hoses were stretched tight. They automatically released before any damage and I managed to get the pto shaft stopped before it was damaged. Your right, check your shorts.

"but why would you want to replace something that can easily be maintained?" Because my body is worth something too and I feel that eventually replacing part of a pto shaft is a very small price to pay vs the frustration of fighting a shaft on and off because the grease is all stiffened up with dirt. And contrary to your recommendation the dirt does accumulate under the plastic shield. I've been there and that's why the shield doesn't get replaced after it's worn out.

I’ve never seen dirt accumulate to any noticeable degree under plastic shielding.
My large square baler is not equipped with shielding on the first shaft. It is the Comer brand and it does however, come with “coated” inner and outer shafts to make the mating surfaces more rust resistant and slide in/out easier. Coated shafts are pricey.

 

[pmsmechanic]

HD I hear what you are saying about rust but you and I live on opposite sides of the continent. You live in a high humidity area and I live in a semi desert. On a good year we might hit 10-12 inches precipitation including the snow. I store all of my equipment inside and here rust is just not an issue. Unless.... you leave it outside for ten years.

 

[Cycledude]

I don’t have as much trouble with the pull back collars as many of you have reported but yes for me they are a royale pain and I highly prefer the older fashioned push button type, just don’t understand why so many manufacturers have switched to the sliding collar type ?

 

[Tinhack]

I highly prefer the older fashioned push button type, just don’t understand why so many manufacturers have switched to the sliding collar type ?

My newest equipment (Chipper and Ditch Mower) both came with push button releases on their PTO shafts. The chipper is going on three years old and the ditch mower is one year old now. Is that "Old Fashioned" these days?