PTO Top Link, is Kubota brand necessary?

[5030]

The color won't match. Your neighbors will continue to make snide remarks about it. Best to operate only at night until the new one rusts up. If you get a Deere link, they will hatepost you here !

Rattle can cures that.... I tend to buy the TSC cheapies. That and lynch pins (by the bag) as I loose them all the time. They vanish in the hay somewhere. I wonder if my customers cattle can digest them?

 

[zzvyb6]

Rattle can cures that.... I tend to buy the TSC cheapies. That and lynch pins (by the bag) as I loose them all the time. They vanish in the hay somewhere. I wonder if my customers cattle can digest them?

You might also consider a hydraulic top link instead of just the threaded type. When disconnected, it acts the same as a solid part. BTW: I loose clips all the time, plus some are just junk anyways. I keep the haybine header above the dirt so that I no longer snag clips, straps, dog toys, and rake teeth. Customers like the clean hay, too.

 

[5030]

Something I don't require but a good thought anyways. When greased, they move easy. Besides, I tend to use all my remotes with implements, I have 3 on each plus flow control. I'm a 'greaser'....lol

 

[JWR]

We use to buy top links 50 at a time for 16.00 a piece from Tisco all different lengths.

A 16" Cat 2 toplink is currently sold by Tisco for $32.95. I see they have 20" Cat 2 top links for $42.35. I was unaware that Cat 2 links (or any specific Cat link) came in more than one length. Means the user has to pay attention to his hitch and implements before buying.

I also see that Tisco sells "red top" which must be a Brand (?) painted red for a couple $ more. Not that color tells anything but I have seen some good stout generic (not tractor brand) toplinks that happened to be red.

Noted also that Cat 1 and Cat 2 combo top links are sold which have one end fatter than the other. This might be handy for certain tractors (like my B2150's for example where I would not need to grind material off to make a Cat 2 fit. )

 

[dstig1]

My manual top link had no grease zerks. So.... twice a year - remove the top link from the tractor - totally disassemble - grease the heck out of the threads on both ends - reassemble. It's not that big a job but a couple of grease zerks sure would have made it easier.

You realize that one of those times you take it apart to grease it, you could just drill and tap and add zerks, right? Then you can just use the gun in the future...

 

[oosik]

Add zerks - for sure dstig1. But that manual top link went with the Ford when traded in for the Kubota. I got wise and got a FitRite for the new Kubota. One never realizes the ease and precision a hydraulic top link provides - until you own one.

 

[dstig1]

Gotcha. I too have Fit Rite Top and Tilt and they have been great. Unfortunately when I finally got the kit from Brian, it exposed that the dealer had an incompetent moron assemble the 2 rear remotes and they had crossed up hoses and control handles and everything. I had to sort it out myself and replumb it and re-do the controls too. All while in the field. Was not pleased...

 

[Smokeydog]

Once folded up a cheap top link subsoiling. Subsoiler puts compression on the top link. Put the MF OEM back on without anymore issues.
Some OEM ones are built heavier. Since I have never bought a new tractor most have aftermarket top links. No problems. OEM top links tend to get separated from their tractors often.

 

[LADPT]

No rear remotes

Looked at Kubota at dealership. I think it is less robust that the TSC. But it does have grease zerks. I’ll try to keep it lubed.

I’d love top n tilt and have priced it. Just shy of $4k for 3 valves, top n tilt, 3rd function loader stick.

I have a skid steer with grapple. Just can’t bring myself to spend the money for T n T now.

I do have ~1500ft gravel driveway, but it’s all flat ground, no real crown.

 

[Tomtint]

A number of years ago I bent one of the threaded ends in my OEM Kubota top link. I think I bent it backing into a tree with the Land plane...Anyway, a new oem one was a few hundred dollars. I drove 3 miles to Tractor supply and bought one there for 50-60$..Its been perfect and I actually prefer the cam lock it has instead of the oem locking bolt.