Pto extender

[Mike Czok]

With the wood chipper I bought the pto shaft was too short so I bought an extender to extend the splines. Was tough going on so I tapped it lightly. Now I can’t get it off. Also neither end of the pto shaft will fit on this piece or else I would just leave it. How do I get it off and why doesn’t the couplers go on.

 

[zzvyb6]

Carefully hose clamp the pin in as far as you can. Tap it to ensure it's pushed in ALL the way. Then give it gentle nudges with a hammer. If there is space for a pry bar, try that also. The goal is to remove it without damaging the tractor's pto stub shaft or internal bearings and gear teeth.

It's also possible that the retaining pin became bent internally, and that this prevents it from releasing the coupler. Try rotating the pin 180 degrees to a different angular position so that a bend is away from the stub shaft.

As a final resort, there should be a 'C' clip on the end of the pin, remove it and drive out the pin with a center punch. Then it can be pryed out. (Theoretically). Paint, dirt, rust, and bad tolerancing cause this. I like mine loose. Under power, they stay secure and won't wobble. Worst case is a tight coupler on a heavy CV jointed shaft (that I can hardly pick up the end of, much less put it on or take it off)...

 

[California]

I would remove the pin, as ZZ said. And figure out how to pry it with equal pressure on the left and right sides.

But it may need to be expanded with heat to free it. I think a torch would risk damaging the tractor. Try boiling water poured over rags wrapped around it. Or if you have a heated cord that is intended for thawing water pipes, wrap that around it. Or wrap the sort of heating pad you wrap around sore muscles. But obviously don't let the tractor's native shaft get overheated. Good luck with this!

 

[CH4Ohio]

Put a bolt or screwdriver etc through the hole in the end of the extender and attach a ratchet strap to it. Get the other end secured to something solid and put some serious tension on it. Start with gentle taps with a ball peen hammer. Be sure the button is pushed down and that it’s not locked on. Always works for me.

Some penetrating oil sprayed into the back will also help.

 

[scootr]

Sometimes only a slide hammer will do. Looks like a hole where you could put a hardened bolt thru the end and and tap with a hammer

 

[Mike Czok]

Thanks for the advise. Have tried those except the heat. No go. I can’t even punch out the pin. Doesn’t budge. Now what?

 

[newbury]

That pin looks jammed up off center.
I'd give it plenty of Kroil on the pin AND the PTO shaft, hours to "soak/seep" in, then apply something to vibrate hammer while as

CH4Ohio wrote - "putting some serious" tension on it.​

 

[California]

How much tension can you pull before you rip the PTO bearing out of the tractor?

 

[repete]

Get one of these. Just used mine (different brand) for removing an inner race off a wheel hub I could not get a puller behind. Heated it up and it just fell off.

 

[Mike Czok]

That pin looks jammed up off center.
I'd give it plenty of Kroil on the pin AND the PTO shaft, hours to "soak/seep" in, then apply something to vibrate hammer while as

CH4Ohio wrote - "putting some serious" tension on it.​

 

[Mike Czok]

What does vibrate hammer mean

 

[RayIN]

That locking pin is fully extended, meaning it locked the extension onto the PTO shaft. Will the locking pin push in all the way? If so, there will be approx. 1/8" still sticking up.
I suspect by "tapping it on" the larger part of the pin is now swedged into the circular groove, so removing the pin is vital to getting the extension off.

 

[Mike Czok]

The pin will not move. I have tried hammering on it and nothing. How do I get it out?

 

[zzvyb6]

Last resort in my view: Angle grinder with a cutting wheel: Slice it and crack it off. To me, It's not worth the time, trouble, damage, frustration, or cost. Find a new drive shaft of an appropriate length and make some chips. Guaranteed you'll need to use it more than twice.

 

[CH4Ohio]

If the pin won't budge -- you can't tap on it and get it to move -- then that's your problem. Do you think it got jammed up when you were "tapping" on the extender to put it on the shaft? Was it depressed (pushed in) when you started this extender on the shaft and DID YOU SEE IT DROP INTO THE GROOVE and extend when you got it "tapped" into this position?

Shouldn't take a lot more force to remove it than it did to tap it on . . . but if that's locked into the detent on the tractor's pto shaft, you'll have to start there.

I've never taken one apart, but it looks like removing the C-clip on the pin would be the first place to start. Then I'd pull on the top of the pin with some channel locks or vice-grips or get a screwdriver under the head of it and tap lightly. If it won't move in that direction, try tapping it in the other direction. Spray liberaly with penetrating oil along the way. Once it starts moving, use a punch to drive it out. If you hit resistance that's enough to worry you, turn it over and try driving it the other direction. There must be a pretty simple way to get that spring-loaded pin out of the housing. It must be jammed against the splines but hard to say which direction you need to go.

Unless the pin is "locked" and holding it on, I still say that tension on a ratchet strap and then tapping on the sides of the extender should get it to release.

 

[Fxfymn413]

If all else fails go back to where you bought the extender and examine how the detent works. That should give you the knowledge you need to correctly disassemble your extender.

 

[zzvyb6]

Just take a thin wheel die grinder and split the thing into 2 halves to remove it. Anything you do now is only going to worsen the damage to the splines on the tractor shaft (If it's not already wickered up). The pin is in a tight position and the extender is not in home position, so the pin is fubar. Shaft probably, too.

 

[WinterDeere]

Slice it and crack it off. To me, It's not worth the time, trouble, damage, frustration, or cost. Find a new drive shaft of an appropriate length and make some chips. Guaranteed you'll need to use it more than twice.

^ This. I would never even consider hammering on or pulling on my tractor's PTO stub, without at least understanding how it's captured, since every one has different internals and different susceptibility to axial push/pull forces. Last thing you want to do is damage a ball or roller bearing that's not designed to take axial loads.

You said you had to hammer it on, which would have been the time to prevent this, they should always slide on easy. Whether it was a bent pin causing you to have to do that, a burr on your tractor's PTO stub, dirt, or just a badly made extender... who cares?

Cut the stupid pin assembly off the extender, and get the pin out. If it doesn't come loose after that, I'd try grabbing the PTO stub with a bearing splitter first, so that I'm only prying against the small collar that's machined right onto the stub. You never want to pull a stub by prying on the housing.

If bearing splitter fails, I'd probably try to figure out how deep the socket in the extender is (buy another and measure), then cut off 1/2" longer than that, drill and tap a hole in what remains, and use a bolt to "push" the extender off the stub like a gear puller.

Everytime I see people in these threads recommend prying or pulling on a PTO stub, I remember why I don't buy used tractors, anymore. Too many farmers thinking they're mechanics.

 

[WinterDeere]

Meet your new best friend, if not already acquainted:

 

[Lavender Valley]

I got my one off, penetrating oil, My extender had a bolt holding it in place. I removed that, then 2 tree felling wedges, one on each side of the shaft.