2210 front pinion bearing

[Zephrant]

My seal around where the PTO shaft attaches to the front diff was leaking. When I pried out the seal, I found the bearing keeper damaged (most likely my fault). I have the bearing on order (R113851) and already have the seal (LVU800929). I also ordered the sleeve (LVU800954) in case that was why the seal was leaking.

But I'm not finding instructions on how to replace that bearing (and there are two of them). There are two snap rings. If I get them out, will that face plate come out with the bearing, with or without the pinion?

The roll pins on the PTO shaft were cracked in half, and the keeper snap ring was only half seated. Not sure if that is normal wear and tear, or if someone else was in here before. Have owned it for 15 years, first time I've ever taken the boot off.

I did buy it used though, and it had a rental place sticker on it. I was desperate- 3-4' of snow that I could not push back with my blade on the jeep.

 

[Zephrant]

Got the snap rings out, still not obvious how to get that cover off.
Are the hoops shown in the picture cast in to that cover, such that I have to remove both axels to get that cover plate off?

 

[bmaverick]

Got the snap rings out, still not obvious how to get that cover off.
Are the hoops shown in the picture cast in to that cover, such that I have to remove both axels to get that cover plate off?

Did you download the Yanmar Parts Manual? It would show a diagram of how the parts fit together.

 

[Zephrant]

Could not find the section that would help here: OMLVU14461_G3

Saw a hint in another thread that the pinion and two bearings might come out together, without taking the cover plate off. Will look in to that. Maybe a slide hammer.

 

[Zephrant]

Tried a slide hammer on the pinion, could not get it to budge. Decided to take the whole thing apart, which was not that bad. 5 bolts for each wheel hub.

Found significant damage to the pinion gear, no damage to the mating gear. Not sure if it's normal wear or not. New pinion on order.

LVU800780: Front Axle Housing Shaft

 

[skipmarcy]

It's gonna take a lot more than an exploded parts diagram and a few new parts to rebuild that differential. Takes several specialty tools and knowledge. For instance, getting the pinion pre-load set is especially tricky, even for seasoned mechanics. Part #14 in that diagram is the crush sleeve between the two bearings - it is what sets the pre-load, in inch-pounds and sometimes takes a 4' cheater bar on your breaker bar to get the crush just started but you can't go too far or you will ruin it and have to get another.

Also, the whole banjo assembly (axle housing) will need to be completely washed out with some sort of solvent as it's full of metal debris that will destroy all of your hard work pretty quickly. Then you have to know how to use prussian blue and read tooth contact patterns to set the ring & pinion gears properly. Not really a novice's home garage job.

 

[Zephrant]

Thanks for the knowledge- it's all pulled apart now, and I could hardly make it worse than it is. There is only a little bit of metal shavings, easy enough to flush out. Not sure where the rest of the missing metal went, maybe flushed out before I got the tractor. It's been making noise up front for quite a while. I mostly just avoided 4WD as much as I could until I could look on to it.

Do you know of any instructions for the assembly process available to me?

 

[Harry in Ky]

I don't see where it's all that complex. I don't have a service manual with specifics, but it looks to be all ball bearings so preload is a non issue. Gears are available separately so tooth contact patterns are not really an issue. Just simple bevel gears so basically so checking for reasonable backlash is about all there is. I don't see any shims available to change that so you pretty much only have the one choice. Put it together and if it feels right, run with it.

 

[Zephrant]

Got the pinion put back together. Other than the small snap ring, was not bad.
Put on the right side wheel assembly, it was missing the O ring so someone had it apart at some point.

 

[Zephrant]

When I went to put on the driver's wheel assembly the top drive gear and bearing fell out, and showed some damage. I also noticed the lower gear set had a grinding spot as it rotated.

Both gears are available, so will order them and the seals.

 

[Zephrant]

I need to replace #9. Can I put a gear puller on it and pop it right off?

 

[Harry in Ky]

Those are some rough looking castings. Looks like Asian quality, but not the typical Japanese Yan Deere finish I would expect.

 

[Zephrant]

Also learned the front lower wheel assemblies have their own fluid reservoir, and that they have probably never been changed since it was built.

 

[Harry in Ky]

Can I press out the wheel hub to get that main gear off, without removing those snap rings that appear to be buried inside this assembly? I need to replace #9. Can I put a gear puller on it and pop it right off?

Can I press out the wheel hub to get that main gear off, without removing those snap rings that appear to be buried inside this assembly? I need to replace #9. Can I put a gear puller on it and pop it right off?

It looks like snap ring (10) holds gear (9) in place. A bearing puller should help get bearing (11) off, then the gear should come free without much fight. Then you can press (or drive) the shaft out, assuming you're after the seal and sleeve (2) and (3)?.

 

[Zephrant]

Looking at it again, I think I just need to remove the big gear #9, can't tell how to get that snap ring out though. Looks buried between the bearing and big gear.

 

[Zephrant]

Ok, I think I can press off that big gear, and the snap ring is holding that bearing in to the big gear from the back side.

I can just barely see a snap ring between the big gear and the housing, but I think that will stay with the housing. It's below the big gear.

 

[Zephrant]

Cleaned it up with brake cleaner, gently pried out the bearing on the face of the big gear with a screwdriver. Found the inside snap ring. Removed it and the wheel mount and shaft came right off.

Placed the housing with the gear on the press, and the gear came right out, hopefully without damaging the bearing.

I should probably replace all the bearings and seals, but am already $1000 of parts in to it for the gears, just replacing the worst ones.

 

[Zephrant]

Found the three sheared off teeth in the lower gear, got them flushed out. Hopefully that gear will be ok.

Parts on order, 5 day delay while I wait for them.

 

[Zephrant]

Got all the parts in, was easy enough to press it all together. Was only able to get it to take 2 quarts of oil though, supposed to take 2.5 or more. Let it sit overnight, drove it a bit, still registers full. Will let it sit a few more days and see if the level drops.

I only replaced the worst damage. The biggest issue was the 3 gear teeth on the large gear that had partially sheered off, and were binding up in the lower gear, plus the general metal bits.

Many of the 45 degree gears had some pitting, but for a tractor that only gets used 8-10 times a year, mostly for snow removal, I think it'll be fine.

Thanks for all the help-