PT425 Brakes

[MossRoad]

OK, I've been shamed into sharing my photos of the PT425 brakes, so here goes... /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

First picture is of the left, front wheel removed. This is why you should check here once in a while... there is a wheel motor in there somewhere /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

 

[MossRoad]

Second picture is of it all cleaned up looking down from the top. From this view you can see how the pin/spring assembly works. You can also see the position of the toothed gear in relation to the hub. Nice welds and thick steel for the motor bracket. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif Also, take notice of the shape of the mounting bracket for the wheel motor and the position of the motor. I'll explain later.

 

[SnowRidge]

Moss, thanks for posting those. A couple of questions:

1. How is the brake attached to the hub on your machine?

2. The brake / motor mount clearance looks different in the two pictures. Is that an optical delusion -- or sumpin' else?

3. How does one pull the wheel hub with that brake on there. Any idea?

 

[MossRoad]

Last picture for now is a side view of the brake. You can see the pin engaged in the lower right corner. 12 slots so the brake will engage in what, every 30 degrees of rotation. It works good.

Now here's why I wanted you to pay attention to the motor bracket...

Look behind the gear on the left side, opposite of where the pin is engaged. There is a hole for a brake pin. My guess is that the bracket can be used on either side of the PT425. That eases manufacturing and assembly. Only one bracket to worry about. I wonder if they use the same bracket on the rear wheels, too? This may seem simple and not that big of a deal, but how many times have you worked on something only to find that you have a left hand part and you need the right hand one? Little things like this impress me. We had a 1970 Nova that I could dismantle the engine of with about three different wrenches. That's all I needed. I like this simplicity. This is one of the reasons I like the PT. Simple design. Nothing fancy. Works great. I'd still buy another one in a heartbeat! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[MossRoad]

See the third picture. It is just a typical nut with cotter pin on the end of a hydraulic motor shaft.

The differences in the pictures is only due to the position of the camera.

 

[MossRoad]

Here's why I pulled the wheel off... think I have a leak? /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[MossRoad]

Here's what the inside of a slimed tire looks like... in case you've ever wondered. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[SnowRidge]

<font color="purple"> Here's why I pulled the wheel off... think I have a leak? </font>

Either that, or it was bit by a rabid bat! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[MossRoad]

And the rim, of course! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[SnowRidge]

<font color="blue"> It is just a typical nut with cotter pin on the end of a hydraulic motor shaft. </font>

That is only the beginning of getting the hub off. You still need to get a <font color="red"> stout </font> puller behind it. (Ask me how I know.)

The brake looks to be in the way.

BTW, the nut took a 42" bar to bust it loose, and the second puller arrived late yesterday by UPS. The first one -- HF's biggest -- is going back to the store in pieces.

 

[MossRoad]

I think the brake ring is attached to the hub. So if you remove the nut and use a puller, they both should come off together. I'll have to take a close look the next time I have one off.

 

[bubenberg]

Oh that is what's in there!? hihihihih /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[pajoube]

Interesting, thanks for the pictures.
You slimed but still had a leak, did you find a nail or bolt in the tire?
PJ

 

[BobRip]

Could there have been dirt and trash forced between the rim and tire. I have seen some of that occur. Not enough to cause leaks though.

Bob Rip

 

[MossRoad]

Those leaks were caused by me spinning the tire off the rim in sand and then pumping it up to get it home. Makes for a good picture, though. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I'll continue the tire discussion in the other thread started about tires.

 

[Highridge]

I changed a bald tire yesterday. Here's a pic of the 1430 brake/hub. (looks just like MR's, but the tractor's red)

 

[FOURTEEN]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( the tractor's red )</font>


<font color="red"> Lucky you! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
I love my PT-425, but I hate the low quality 'Puke Green' paint!
I bought some high quality 'Dark Forest Green' paint last winter, but haven't had the time to put it on!! /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif </font>

<font color="red"> PS: That's the trouble with NC! Not enough cold, snowy, miserable winter days to get your work done inside!! Just one nice day after another almost all winter long!! Oh well! Maybe we'll get a nice week long hurricane with lot of rain so I can get the PT painted!! And, knock over another 100 trees for me to clean up with my Grapple Bucket!!

</font>

 

[Highridge]

I'd be glad to send you some of our rain we've had for the last week and a half! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[davesisk]

I can't answer about pulling the wheel hub with the brake rotor on it, but I have pulled the hub on a rear wheel (when I replaced a wheel motor a year or two ago). The hub is designed for a tapered shaft, so it's wedged on there pretty good. With a little oxidation, it's very difficult to get off. BUT, there's a trick! Wedge something behind the hub that is applying force that (you would think) would push it off. Then adjust the nut to be flush with the motor shaft (so you don't damage the nut or the shaft). Then whack the shaft and nut a couple of times with a 2-3 lb sledge hammer...the hub will likely fall right off. You might have to move your pushing mechanism to the other side and do it again.

For the pushing mechanism, something like a mechanical screw-type gear puller or (ideal) one of the porta-power type hydraulic gear pullers. I used a porta-power type hydraulic frame straightener with a block something on the other side. Note: Unless you've got one of the hydraulic gear pullers or something applies symmetrical force, I wouldn't try to push it off with a porta-power type deal...10 tons is enough force to bend the wheel mounts (but still not enough to pop the hub off...or it wasn't in my case...go figure!)

In a nutshell...you have to knock the tractor off the hub rather than pulling the hub off the tractor. Sounds nuts, doesn't it?

Anyway, I'd guess that the brake rotor is simply another taper-fit item and you'd probably knock it off the same way.

HTH,
Dave