PT-180 Tram pump issues

[Engineer42]

Is that a crack in the flange by the bottom arrow?

 

[m5040]

I would try to pressurize the hyd reservoir with 1-3 psi of air pressure. Start with the lowest you can work with. Too much and stuff can burst, the tank sides would bulge out (like an oil can bottom), don't go that much (I think that would be around 8psi, but just a guess). When there is some pressure in the tank, loosen the suction hose to the tram pump and wait until oil starts to flow out, then retighten. Then try the bleed procedure with the reservoir still under pressure. This is pushing oil into the pump and if it is assembled correctly, it will function from there.
Note: 1. Don't keep running the pump dry, you will cause damage. 2. That potential gap needs to be addressed. Look for loose mounting fasteners, dirt/debris between the flange, or interference with drive coupler or flange damage.

 

[James23]

As an update to everyone. I did some more investigation this weekend. Eventually I decided to pull the pump and set it on my workbench. I filled it with oil. About 10 minutes later oil started seeping from the "crack" (aka the place where the pump housing is separated).

I am pretty frustrated at this point, considering I sent pictures to Terry last week, who assured me these cracks were normal. Clearly this is not normal and the pump was rebuilt wrong.

 

[ponytug]

Good job finding the issue, but I'm sorry that it appears to be a rebuild issue. I would just call Terry and explain what you have found. I hope that a replacement is coming your way soon.

All the best,

Peter

 

[James23]

Alright, so I do have some resolution on this. I got it all figured out back in January, but have been a bit busy.

So I called up Terry. He recommended I remove the pump (again!) and send it back to them. Upon receipt Terry confirmed that the pump was rebuilt / reassembled incorrectly. There was an internal o-ring that got pinched. That was the reason for the gap between the housing pieces. So while no gasket is required on the housing here, the penny width gap was an indicator of a problem.

After getting the pump returned and plopping it back in, I am happy to report that my tractor is back and running great. I plowed some snow a couple times this winter and I'm gearing up for spring clean ups.

All in all a little bit frustrating, but with a happy resolution.

 

[ponytug]

Congratulations on getting it running, and for noticing the issue to begin with!

All the best, Peter

 

[Jim-W]

Alright, so I do have some resolution on this. I got it all figured out back in January, but have been a bit busy.

So I called up Terry. He recommended I remove the pump (again!) and send it back to them. Upon receipt Terry confirmed that the pump was rebuilt / reassembled incorrectly. There was an internal o-ring that got pinched. That was the reason for the gap between the housing pieces. So while no gasket is required on the housing here, the penny width gap was an indicator of a problem.

After getting the pump returned and plopping it back in, I am happy to report that my tractor is back and running great. I plowed some snow a couple times this winter and I'm gearing up for spring clean ups.

All in all a little bit frustrating, but with a happy resolution.

@James23 glad it worked out! I bought a used PT-425 last year and it appears to have the same tram pump as yours. Since it is different than the one shown in the owner's manual, I don't know what ports are what! I have 3 capped off ports, (one higher and one on each side at what looks like the lowest points of the pump) and want to find out which one I use when I change the filter to bleed the air. Also, I don't know where the "tow valve" is. My photos show both sides of the pump and the 3 ports. Thanks a million,
jim-w

 

[ponytug]

@James23 glad it worked out! I bought a used PT-425 last year and it appears to have the same tram pump as yours. Since it is different than the one shown in the owner's manual, I don't know what ports are what! I have 3 capped off ports, (one higher and one on each side at what looks like the lowest points of the pump) and want to find out which one I use when I change the filter to bleed the air. Also, I don't know where the "tow valve" is. My photos show both sides of the pump and the 3 ports. Thanks a million,
jim-w

Welcome. I would reach out to Terry Estep, head of service at Power-Trac (800) The-Yard, or (276) 988-6543;252
Have your serial number ready. He is very helpful.

All the best,

Peter

 

[2manyrocks]

As an update to everyone. I did some more investigation this weekend. Eventually I decided to pull the pump and set it on my workbench. I filled it with oil. About 10 minutes later oil started seeping from the "crack" (aka the place where the pump housing is separated).

I am pretty frustrated at this point, considering I sent pictures to Terry last week, who assured me these cracks were normal. Clearly this is not normal and the pump was rebuilt wrong.



View attachment 774276

Is that clear silicone sealant like someone would use on a kitchen sink?

 

[Jim-W]

Welcome. I would reach out to Terry Estep, head of service at Power-Trac (800) The-Yard, or (276) 988-6543;252
Have your serial number ready. He is very helpful.

All the best,

Peter

Will do. Thanks!