Property Gate

   / Property Gate #21  
Going to take a long handle shovel to dig the bell bottom on a 4' deep hole, IMO. Do you have that covered?
 
   / Property Gate #22  
Yes, as beenthere stated, it will take some long handled diggers to bell the hole. I saw some offset handled diggers at ....Home Depot? Lowes? ... don't remember, but they really let you reach into the bottom and get at the sides. I have "modified" a sharpshooter shovel w/ a long handle to bell the bottoms of deep holes, then use the diggers to get the loose dirt out.
or, check out this or this .
 
   / Property Gate #23  
You may want to consider extending the other end of the gate a couple of feet & hanging a counter weight to balance the gate. It will move easier and not tend to tip the pivot post over when the ground is wet & soft.
 
   / Property Gate #24  
Mike
That is a good idea. Adds to the width of the 'gated' area as well.
 
   / Property Gate
  • Thread Starter
#25  
Probably won't be able to do the bell bottom with my tractor /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif however, by hand using post hole diggers to clean out the hole, I might be able to use a pry/tamping bar to shave out the bottom of the hole - maybe not


If not, I maybe some rebar driven into the bottom of the hole at different angles would work?
 
   / Property Gate
  • Thread Starter
#26  
That sounds like a great idea too! I will definitely give that some thought.

Thanks Mike
 
   / Property Gate #27  
It's easier to dig your basic round hole & use these.

Bigfoot or Foottube

I put gravel in the bottom of the hole for drainage, tamp it down firm and then put the tube in and backfill. Fill it with cement and your done.

Local knuckleheads couldn't get past a farmers gate so they chain-sawed a pathway thru the surrounding wooded area. All just to go joy riding - or poaching.

-Norm
 
   / Property Gate #28  
Been there.

Done that.

Got the hat and the shirt.

If you click on the "life is good" at the bottom of this post you'll see a pipe and stone gate that weighs about thirteen hundred pounds and works just fine.

If you built the gate you're describing and only went down four feet, well, that would be comparable to slapping a Grizzly that thinks you're a threat.

Here's some options.

1. Consider looking for a source for commercial fire suppression system pipe. It's the same outside diameter as schedule forty but is usually schedule ten or lighter. Same appearance, intimidating, but a fraction of the weight.

2. Think about what I've had considerable success with at places like rental yards etc. That's a barrier that folds down and up not unlike a railroad crossing guard. The difference is the RR barrier is designed to break away when hit and mine are designed to not break, away or any other way.

The advantage of the folding barrier is your pivot post only has compression forces upon it and no lateral ones. Therefore it doesn't have to have as substantial a footing.

One of the biggest mistakes I see made on these arrangements is they're built like a tank and yet it only takes a pair of bolt cutters or a cheap fire extinguisher and a hammer to go through the lock.

So on your latching mechanism think smart. Use the lock only to hold a pin that takes all the abuse. Say like a deadbolt lock that engages your horizontal pipe when it's in a down position.

Good luck.

And don't forget the dummy cameras. That'll stop the ones that will steal your tractor because that's what they do for a living.
 
   / Property Gate
  • Thread Starter
#29  
Harv,

Not to slight anyone else, but I was hoping you would see and comment on my post, since you have alot of experience with gates and metals.

I really appreciate yours and everyone elses comments and advice!

I'll keep working on it!

Thanks Again.
 

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