Proper trailering

[dodge man]

I say a 70 Plymouth GTX for sale at the Mopar Nationals in Columbus Ohio several years ago. It was sitting on the trailer and you could tell it had been rolled hard. The guy towing it had the trailer start to sway, REAL BAD, and it broke the tie down straps in half, and the car actually passed him on the way into the ditch. This was several years ago before the price of these cars went sky high, but it went from being a $15,000 car to $1500 car in about 10 seconds. They guy was towing it with a Dodge Ramcharger, kind of Dodges version of a full sized SUV. I can't remember how many tie downs he had, but they were still on the trailer and looked like they had been cut clean with a sharp knife.

Leason learned, use stronger tie downs, and if towing with a short wheel base tow vehicle, make sure you have trailer sway control.

 

[FlaDon]

I guess if one was so inclined, you could fab a way to put a padlock on your binder(s). Similar to using bailing wire.

I usually put a padlock on the coupler of bumper pull trailers, ALWAYS put one on the 5th wheel.

At one time, you could get binders that could be locked. As for the hitch locks, one in the receiver and one on the coupler latch. If they try to remove the ball nut or the adjusting bolts, they better have brought along a BIG cheater bar or a torque multiplier.

 

[crazyal]

I guess if one was so inclined, you could fab a way to put a padlock on your binder(s). Similar to using bailing wire.

I usually put a padlock on the coupler of bumper pull trailers, ALWAYS put one on the 5th wheel.

The only lever style binders I use are these. They can be bought from northerntool and are made int he USA.

 

[FlaDon]

The only lever style binders I use are these. They can be bought from northerntool and are made int he USA.

Looks like they can be locked too.:thumbsup: