Problem with top link disassembly

[von-mil]

This is the original top link from my Kubõta B3030. I am unable to completely remove the threaded rod from the top link body. It unscrews to a point near the end of the rod but then will not turn any further.

I read elsewhere on TBN that some top links have a cross pin or key that sticks out slightly from the rod's threads in order to prevent the rod from coming completely out from the body. In these cases, there would be an access hole in the body, usually covered with a small screw. Supposedly there is a way to get the cross pin out through the access hole thereby allowing the complete removal of the rod.

My top link has these access holes, one at each end. Through this hole I can feel something in the rod's threads and I am sure that it is what is preventing the rod's removal. However, I cannot figure out how to remove whatever is in there. I've tried inserting various small screwdrivers and allen bits but nothing will catch. It's hard to see what is just inside the hole due to grease and not enough light coming through the small hole.

Is anyone familiar with this procedure? Removing these rods should be a simple task, right?
Thanks.

 

[Gordon Gould]

If someone tells you how to do it ( which I hope they do ) and you get it apart then you are both better men than I am.

Long time ago I bent the tube on one and tried to get the threaded ends out. Couldn't. Finally I cut the the bent part of the tube out and rewelded a straight piece in. While I had it open I looked at the thread stops to see how to release them. They looked permanent to me.

 

[Jack3489]

If I remember correctly, there is a spring loaded pin which can be accessed via the removal of the screw (that you removed in the photo). Pin pushes in against the spring as I remember and then you can unscrew the end.

Might want to look online at the Kubota parts diagram for your specific model to verify.

Hope this helps,
Jack

 

[LD1]

Why do you want to take it apart? Fixing one cost more than buying a complete replacement. And the standard cat I top links like you can get from tsc are heavier than the Kubota ones anyway. And have a longer handle for adjusting

 

[von-mil]

If someone tells you how to do it ( which I hope they do ) and you get it apart then you are both better men than I am.

Long time ago I bent the tube on one and tried to get the threaded ends out. Couldn't. Finally I cut the the bent part of the tube out and rewelded a straight piece in. While I had it open I looked at the thread stops to see how to release them. They looked permanent to me.

I'm coming to the conclusion that my top link is not meant to be taken apart. Apparently when they build them they:

1- insert threaded rod into body
2- use the little access hole to permanently mar the threads
3- plug hole with a screw

If I remember correctly, there is a spring loaded pin which can be accessed via the removal of the screw (that you removed in the photo). Pin pushes in against the spring as I remember and then you can unscrew the end.

Might want to look online at the Kubota parts diagram for your specific model to verify.

Hope this helps,
Jack

I'm not finding any kind of spring. Thanks though.

Why do you want to take it apart? Fixing one cost more than buying a complete replacement. And the standard cat I top links like you can get from tsc are heavier than the Kubota ones anyway. And have a longer handle for adjusting

There's nothing wrong with the top link. I just wanted to replace the locking nut with one that doesn't require a wrench to turn - like the one in this picture.

 

[xring100]

Can you just weld some round stock about 3-4" long to the nut to give you a handle

 

[k0ua]

I'm coming to the conclusion that my top link is not meant to be taken apart. Apparently when they build them they:

1- insert threaded rod into body
2- use the little access hole to permanently mar the threads
3- plug hole with a screw






I'm not finding any kind of spring. Thanks though.






There's nothing wrong with the top link. I just wanted to replace the locking nut with one that doesn't require a wrench to turn - like the one in this picture.
View attachment 368009

You do know that you do not need a wrench to to tighten the nut up against the center body don't you?.. If someone does not, I will outline the operation here.. Instead of trying to tighten the nut, just run the nut down with your hand until it is snug against the center body, then hold the nut securely with your hand, and take your other hand and tighten the center body using the leverage provided by the cross piece to cinch up the center body up against the nut. To loosen, do the same thing, hold the nut securely with your hand and bump the cross piece quickly in the opposite direction.. A wrench is never needed.

 

[Baby Grand]

<snip>

There's nothing wrong with the top link. I just wanted to replace the locking nut with one that doesn't require a wrench to turn - like the one in this picture.
View attachment 368009

I went through the same "schooling". My solution was to weld a short length of 1/2" round stock to the nut on mine - works pretty well. I'll see if I can find a photo ...

 

[Baby Grand]

Found one, not too good, but you'll get the idea ...

The eye on the end of the rod allows me to put the hook of a bungee cord though it to secure the rod so the rest of the link can't spin and loosen.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I think the screw holes were for grease fittings not access on mine

 

[von-mil]

You do know that you do not need a wrench to to tighten the nut up against the center body don't you?.. If someone does not, I will outline the operation here.. Instead of trying to tighten the nut, just run the nut down with your hand until it is snug against the center body, then hold the nut securely with your hand, and take your other hand and tighten the center body using the leverage provided by the cross piece to cinch up the center body up against the nut. To loosen, do the same thing, hold the nut securely with your hand and bump the cross piece quickly in the opposite direction.. A wrench is never needed.

Yup, your description is the method that I have always been using, and usually without any problem. Occasionally though, usually with the brush hog on the back, I have not been getting it tight enough and the body of the top link starts slowly turning and lengthening.

I like the suggestions for welding a small grab handle to the locking nut but welding is something that I have never done. I have a neighbor who could probably help me out though.

I'll also try the bungee cord restraint. The top link body has a U-shaped extension coming out of it's side which will hold the cord hook nicely.

I use a different, shorter top link with a middle buster plow and it comes completely apart if the threads are turned far enough. I was assuming that the Kubõta version did the same. Thanks for the replies.

 

[LD1]

I guess I have never used the jam nut. Never really han an issue with them moving on their own.

 

[Popster]

Anyone find a solution for this problem. I bought a new threaded end for my top link (original bent) for $68. It was too much money, but I liked the fact that the original would snap into the holder and keep the top link out of the way when not in use. The replacement tsc link's barrel had a bigger diameter and would not fit in the retaining clip. I have zerk fittings in the barrel and the replacement end has a hole drilled through the end of the threads. I cannot get the old part to screw out.

 

[genusCastor]

... but welding is something that I have never done ...

If you have a tractor and implements, prolly some acreage, then you need a welder.

Go get you one.

Thank me later.

- djb <- wonders why he waited so long to get a welder

 

[k0ua]

If you have a tractor and implements, prolly some acreage, then you need a welder.

Go get you one.

Thank me later.

- djb <- wonders why he waited so long to get a welder

Yep, if you have a tractor and have broken "stuff" you need a welder...and then you need to learn how to use it.

 

[Ford850]

Some of these use a pin through the end of the threaded rod, stopping it from being unscrewed. If there is a pin, there should be a through hole in the outer barrel so you can align it and drive the pin through.

 

[genusCastor]

Yep, if you have a tractor and have broken "stuff" you need a welder...and then you need to learn how to use it.

All my life I'd always thought, "One day I'm gonna get me a welder." So one day I did. Had never before in my life welded. Caught on pretty quick, learnin' myself.

One of the best tool investments I've ever made. Dunno why I waited so long...

- djb

 

[k0ua]

All my life I'd always thought, "One day I'm gonna get me a welder." So one day I did. Had never before in my life welded. Caught on pretty quick, learnin' myself.

One of the best tool investments I've ever made. Dunno why I waited so long...

- djb

Well, I know why I waited.. Those darn things cost money!... As soon and me and the missus could save up some money we bought two important major (to us) purchases. One was a good 15 inch floor standing drill press and the other was a Lincoln AC 225 Welder. I later traded the Lincoln for an Everlast DC machine, but the point is an investment in a welder was a good investment.

 

[Big Barn]

I know for a fact all the older Ford and New Holland top links assemblies separated completely.

We would dismantle them occasionally, wire brush the the treads and apply a liberal coating of Never Seize or similar anti seize compound.

 

[Big Barn]

You do know that you do not need a wrench to to tighten the nut up against the center body don't you?.. If someone does not, I will outline the operation here.. Instead of trying to tighten the nut, just run the nut down with your hand until it is snug against the center body, then hold the nut securely with your hand, and take your other hand and tighten the center body using the leverage provided by the cross piece to cinch up the center body up against the nut. To loosen, do the same thing, hold the nut securely with your hand and bump the cross piece quickly in the opposite direction.. A wrench is never needed.

I realize this is an old post, but YES