Pressure switch on well PLEASE HELP!

Westonium · Feb 2, 2005

Apologies in advance for the long post, but I want to include enough info for useful advice:

My plumbing was done by a man that never bothered to learn plumbing 101. I have copper -steel connections all over the place, and a main line made of PVC that even says right on the pipe "NSF - DW" (not safe for drinking water).

One of the things I fixed was a junction manifold that had cheap valves in it that were dying awfully fast. Because I also disconnected 3 lines that fed a pasture at higher elevation (all of which had ruptures in the pipes) I now have a lot more pressure coming in to the system when the well pump runs.

The pump house is 650 feet away, and 75-100 feet lower than the house. There is no pressure tank in the pump house, but there is an 80 gallon tank inside the house.

The pressure from the pump is causing one of the water heater safety pressure relief valves to trip. There is a LOT of pressure coming up.

There what appears to be 2 pressure switches for the pump, but I've no idea how to adjust them. I removed the cover from one, and see that there are 2 springs, one larger, one smaller and that adjustment can be made to the tension of these springs.

The pressure meter is shot (gosh you think maybe all the copper in the line from the steel-copper-steel connections could be the culprit?) and replacing it means tearing apart the plumbing in the pump house. I am going to do this anyway, but I don't intend to do it mid-winter.

Finally the question: How do I adjust the pressure switch(es) so that my plumbing isn't going to blow apart.

I can make a pretty educated guess that it is >125 psi, maybe about 150.

I had "loseless" under-sink RO water filtration system that was supposed to pump the rejection water back into the hot line, and the pressure was causing multiple seal failures because it was trying to pump into a system already over-pressurized.

HELP!

I just to get through winter.

tc35dforme · Feb 2, 2005

"NSF - DW" (not safe for drinking water).
 That's a new one. I assume you were joking although no /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif. NSF is a quasi-public organization similar to Underwriters Labs ( UL ).

I'm not sure why you have two pressure switches. Most systems have a single pressure switch with a fixed differential. You set the cut-in pressure ( pump -on ) and the cut-out ( pump off ) is fixed at say 40 psi above the cut-in depending on the model switch. Adjusting is usually done by lossening or tightening the nut over the spring.

It sure sounds like you have more going on than a simple adjustment to the switch. Because the pump house is so low, the pump needs to develop high pressure to get 'up the hill'. Figure 1 psi gets you about 2.5 feet up, so the pump needs 40 psi just to cover the lift, add to this the residual at the house of about 40 psi and whatever is lost in the lift and friction, and the pump may indeed need a discharge pressure of 100 PSI or so.

You may have a failed diaphragm on your tank....or it was never charged to the proper air pressure.

You really want a pressure gauge on the outlet side of the tank ( pipe to the house ) so you can adjust that pressure accurately.

Is there a relief valve on the line from the well to the tank ??

HomeBrew2 · Feb 2, 2005

Not sure why you have 2 press switches either. Any chance there's a booster pump at the tank or at the well head. The previous feller's calcs are right, now I wonder how deep your pump is set.

You do need a gauge. Just make one up that attaches to a hose bibb.

It's good practice to clean the contacts in the press switch and not if there's any ants around it as they can cause trouble with the contacts.

Good idea to have a relief valve at the tank ... you really don't want it coming apart.

_RaT_ · Feb 2, 2005

The two springs inside have two functions. One spring will control the cut out and cut in simaltaneously while the other only controls or affects cut out. You need to do several things. Repalce the gauge. The pressure tank is exactly where it should be, up at the house, not at the pump. You need to get your system to about 40/60 PSI on cut in/cut out. This is done by adjsuting the nut (usually 3/8" or 7/16" best done with a nut driver). There is power there so turn it off if you are at all electrically challenged. The cover should explain this. If it does not, I suggest you go to Home Depot and look at theirs. You will be turning the cut out screw about one full turn counter clockwise to start and continue until the pressure drops to 60 PSI max. You will need to open a valve for this to work. This will cause the pump to go on and off while the pressure tank is depleted. Make sure the water heater TP valve is working properly two. The copper to galvanized steel should be fixed. Check the precharge pressure on the tank as well. The tank will have to be completely depleted of pressure. Get a air gauge and read at the top of the pressure tank. It should be about 2lbs less then the cut in pressure or 38lbs if the cut in is 40 PSI. Here is a link to NSF NSF

If you have two pressure switches, it typically indicates two pumps. Typical scenarios would be where you run a domestic water pump and a booster for irrigation. Verify that both are actually being used. The one running your well will not only have power but will be click when the tank pressure calls for it.

Westonium · Feb 2, 2005

NSF - DW, I was told directly that it meant that. I tried googling it, and someone else was claiming the DW meant "drain waste".

I had reason to believe that the PVC isn't usable for drinking water because it wasn't allowed by code in other places I've lived.

I have done tons of PVC work though, all for irrigating though. If its safe - then great!

( Not sure why you have 2 press switches either. Any chance there's a booster pump at the tank or at the well head. The previous feller's calcs are right, now I wonder how deep your pump is set.

You do need a gauge. Just make one up that attaches to a hose bibb.

It's good practice to clean the contacts in the press switch and not if there's any ants around it as they can cause trouble with the contacts.

Good idea to have a relief valve at the tank ... you really don't want it coming apart. )

I was afraid you'd tell me scary stuff like "come apart". Luckily, my copper work is pretty solid.

I will try to get a pressure reading, but I have had a hard time finding adapters that I can use to attach the pressure gauge.

I've removed a lot of the copper-steel connections, so hopefully the new gauges won't die so fast from copper particulate.

The well may be tapped into a well with high water table since it is a the bottom of a hill, about 150' from a stream.

I don't know how big the pump is, but I suspect it is rather beefy.

I don't see a booster pump in there. It would look something like an in-line pool pump, yes? It is all 1 1/4" plumbing up to the house and pressure tank.

Like I said, the pressure at the house is very strong. I have a sense that when the pump isn't running, the pressure is maybe a bit more like 60 or so. If you are in the shower, the flow goes from excellent to "uh gee this is a bit intense" as the pump kicks on.

Can you tell me how to adjust the pressure switches?

ByronBob · Feb 2, 2005

If you turn them clockwise your increasing pressure limits, it you turn them counterclockwise they decrease pressure limits.
The bladder tank needs to be checked to make sure it has pressure in it to compensate the water pressure coming in. On the tank should be a gage you can put a tire pressure gage on to get a reading. If the bladder is broken it can also cause issues so as RaT said it's something else to look at.

ByronBob · Feb 2, 2005

Can you post pictures? I'm confused on your situation somewhat. Why 2 switches........

Jimbrown · Feb 2, 2005

Ahh I do not think there are two switches it just looks like two. When you take the cover off of the switch. Most if not all well switches switch both the hot and common at the same time so it looks like two switches. If I were you I would just go to the closest place that sells pressure switches and by a new 40-60 switch. They are not expensive. I think I paid less than $10 for the last one I bought. You can by them in almost any store that sells hardware and many sears stores have them. If you are going to try and adjust it down you will probably find tht it takes a lot more turns than you would expect.

_RaT_ · Feb 2, 2005

This line makes me think he has two separate and independent switches.

"There what appears to be 2 pressure switches for the pump, but I've no idea how to adjust them. I removed the cover from one,
 and see that there are 2 springs, one larger, one smaller and that adjustment can be made to the tension of these springs.