Power Rake build

   / Power Rake build #1  

Zick

Platinum Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2007
Messages
826
Location
WI
Tractor
BX 2350
Here is the current progress of my Power Rake that I'm building for my Kubota BX.
I didn't want to start this thread right when I started as I usually get partway into a project and it ends up never getting finished but this one has come a long ways.
Rake is going to be about 58 wide (roller width), utilizing a 1:1 gear box with 20T and 10T sprockets to cut the RPMs in half.
Also be aware that this will be a light use implement so I tried keeping cost down.
All hardware was bought from Surplus Center and steel from local steel supplier.
Here is my first real use with a plasma cutter. First one came out pretty good but had a lot of problems getting the others to cut well. I'm sure it was my mistake.



Also bought some nice Hougen Rotacut hole cutters to cut out the 1-1/4" & 1" holes.



Getting the plates tacked in place.



Shaft and plates all welded in, no changing it now.




Building the frame.



Opps! :duh: Broke one of the cutters. Hougen was nice enough to send me a replacement.



Father in-law had some scrap C-channel that was perfect, just had to weld two pieces together.



Still need to build an idle gear tensioner.



Break time to think about the swivel hinge design.



Still trying to keep price down, I came up with idea to use some stock 3pt parts from Farm & Fleet. I used 2 (actually 3) top link bushings and a top link pin to create the swivel joint.
I took two bushings and put them through the tubing, welded and ground flush.




Here is what the tube with bushing looked like with put between the support plates. You can see the recess which is where the extra bushing will go. What this does is allow me to remove the tubing from the main frame if I ever need to.



And here is the 3rd bushing cut down and in place ready to be welded. And the bottom of the pin which just uses a pin to hold it.




What it looks like so far.



Hopefully start working on the 3pt hookup and also need to build the gauge wheels. Then the fun come from cutting and welding on all the teeth. :eek:
 
   / Power Rake build #2  
Subscribed.

An interesting project and something I considered myself.
 
   / Power Rake build #4  
Cool project ... looking great so far ... nice job :thumbsup:
 
   / Power Rake build #5  
Well, you have an audience now. Have to finish this one or you'll leave us all hanging!

Fascinating project :thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
   / Power Rake build #6  
Me is watching too. :thumbsup:
 
   / Power Rake build
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Well, you have an audience now. Have to finish this one or you'll leave us all hanging!

Fascinating project :thumbsup::thumbsup:

Oh this one will get done, I'm too far in to quit now. But it may take a little while still.
I'll update as I move along.

:drink:
 
   / Power Rake build #8  
I want to see this through to the end! Looks interesting. I need to make something like this to level off my lawns.
 
   / Power Rake build
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Got a little more done.













Left the top bracket extra large in case I decide to add in the long open hole slot like other Harley rake have. Not sure I really need it or not. Basically like this.
HAR-Power-Box-Rake-TM7POT84-4.jpg
 
   / Power Rake build #11  
:thumbsup: Gooder-un.
 
   / Power Rake build #12  
Good progress!

What's the slot used for on the other one?
 
   / Power Rake build #14  
Looks great!! Where did you get your gear box for this?
 
   / Power Rake build #16  
It looks like you have a rigid coupling on the output of the gear box. If so, then you are relying on the drive shaft to the upper sprocket flexing to make up for misalignment. In operation, the rake frame will flex and affect alignment as well. Any misalignment will put a load on the gear box bearings. It will probably be fine for light duty use, but you may want to consider adding a pillow block bearing near the gear box and then using a flex coupling between the gear box and shaft.

Left the top bracket extra large in case I decide to add in the long open hole slot like other Harley rake have. Not sure I really need it or not. Basically like this.
For most work I use the fixed top link hole, but I do use the slotted top link hole on my Harley rake. It gives the rake a little float for finish grading and you can make fine adjustments with just the three point lift height.
 
   / Power Rake build
  • Thread Starter
#17  
It looks like you have a rigid coupling on the output of the gear box. If so, then you are relying on the drive shaft to the upper sprocket flexing to make up for misalignment. In operation, the rake frame will flex and affect alignment as well. Any misalignment will put a load on the gear box bearings. It will probably be fine for light duty use, but you may want to consider adding a pillow block bearing near the gear box and then using a flex coupling between the gear box and shaft.


For most work I use the fixed top link hole, but I do use the slotted top link hole on my Harley rake. It gives the rake a little float for finish grading and you can make fine adjustments with just the three point lift height.

Thanks for the tip about the top shaft, I'll have to look into that. :thumbsup:
 
   / Power Rake build #18  
No criticism or helpful critiques from me, because you are already working way above my pay grade, so all I can say is WOW! that looks awesome,

Now I'll be able to keep watching and learning from your work process!

Nicely done so far.

Thomas
 
   / Power Rake build #19  
It appears from your pivot set up that you will have a very limited amount of angle capability with the rectangular hitch frame. Is this going to be a sufficient amount of angle for your intended use? I was thinking H rakes angled to about 45 degrees. Will it work for you? Otherwise, a beautiful job so far, makes me wish I could cut a piece of metal at 90 degrees and straight.
 
   / Power Rake build
  • Thread Starter
#20  
It looks like you have a rigid coupling on the output of the gear box. If so, then you are relying on the drive shaft to the upper sprocket flexing to make up for misalignment. In operation, the rake frame will flex and affect alignment as well. Any misalignment will put a load on the gear box bearings. It will probably be fine for light duty use, but you may want to consider adding a pillow block bearing near the gear box and then using a flex coupling between the gear box and shaft.


For most work I use the fixed top link hole, but I do use the slotted top link hole on my Harley rake. It gives the rake a little float for finish grading and you can make fine adjustments with just the three point lift height.

It looks like you have a rigid coupling on the output of the gear box. If so, then you are relying on the drive shaft to the upper sprocket flexing to make up for misalignment. In operation, the rake frame will flex and affect alignment as well. Any misalignment will put a load on the gear box bearings. It will probably be fine for light duty use, but you may want to consider adding a pillow block bearing near the gear box and then using a flex coupling between the gear box and shaft.


For most work I use the fixed top link hole, but I do use the slotted top link hole on my Harley rake. It gives the rake a little float for finish grading and you can make fine adjustments with just the three point lift height.

Is there any reason to choose a Lovejoy setup vs Universal joint?
I can get either setup for about the same cost. The LJ would add a bit of cushioning during startup vs the solid connection of the UJ.

1" L-110 JAW COUPLING HALF
or
1" KEYED 28 HP UNIVERSAL JOINT


No criticism or helpful critiques from me, because you are already working way above my pay grade, so all I can say is WOW! that looks awesome,

Now I'll be able to keep watching and learning from your work process!

Nicely done so far.

Thomas

Thanks!


It appears from your pivot set up that you will have a very limited amount of angle capability with the rectangular hitch frame. Is this going to be a sufficient amount of angle for your intended use? I was thinking H rakes angled to about 45 degrees. Will it work for you? Otherwise, a beautiful job so far, makes me wish I could cut a piece of metal at 90 degrees and straight.

It can angle about 20 degree. When I was looking at factory rakes, most only angled 15-20 degrees. It should be fine for my intended use which is going to be light duty yard work.
 

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